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Description

This cliff is one of the easiest to find -- it is the big vegetated slab behind the tin pavilion.

Several of EPC's classic multi-pitch go up this wall.

Access issues inherited from El Potrero Chico

Most of the climbing here is in a State Park and there is no fee to enter. Please help maintain a clean environment in order to help maintain these privileges.

Approach

Step over the aqueduct and walk past the (mostly) abandoned picnic area.

Ethic inherited from Nuevo León

Please don´t litter, some crags like LaHuasteca are a little farbolted, but thats how they were setted, please avoid adding bolts. Rebolting efforts are much apreciated, just sens a heads up to the local climbing comunity for safety reasons.

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Routes

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Grade Route

Starts left of "Stairway to Nowhere", up to its summit, further up the ridge into a large bowl, then up to the summit of "Time Wave Zero".

Descent: rappel TWZ.

1 5.10d
2 5.8
3 5.9
4 5.9

Mixed gear and bolts, seldom climbed and hard to find.

The one bolted route on this vegetated wall between the main Jungle wall climbing area and Outrage wall.

FA: Ann Ramsey & Magic Ed

Climb the gully just left of "Las Chimuelas".

Mostly 4th class, with a few steeper bits.

1
2 5.9
3 5.8

Walk up the trail made of concrete tires leftwards from the tin pavilion until you get to the left-most set of bolts, just before the gulley that is "Tamirindo". The first pitch trends leftwards, avoiding the obvious roof.

FA: Magic Ed, Tami & Ismael Garza

Start as per "Las Chimuelas", but after 3rd bolt follow bolt-line straight up to the left side of the roof.

1
2 5.7

Shares start with "Las Chimuelas" and "Warifikis", but goes over the roof at an easier part than Warifikis.

Climb up and over the roof. Then up slab above.

Ed rates this 5.10a, Dane rates it 5.8. I split the difference.

FA: Dane Bass

The next three routes ("Jungle Fever", "Voodoo Trance", and "Hot Rock Global Challenge") are on a wall above the ledge/garden on the left side of the face. Climb the first three pitches of "Jungle Moutaineering", then walk leftwards up the 3rd class trail along the base of the face to find them.

1 5.9
2 5.10a

This route is approached by climbing the first 3 pitches of "Jungle Mountaineering" then following the 3rd class trail leftwards up through the garden to the wall.

This is the last route along the trail (left-most).

1 5.9
2 5.9
3 5.10d
4 5.10c
5 5.9
6 5.8

This route is approached by climbing the first 3 pitches of "Jungle Mountaineering" then following the 3rd class trail leftwards up through the garden to the wall.

Pitch 4 has a 5.11b variation -- go straight up through the overhanging dihedral for the 11b, or up a ramp before re-joining the dihedral.

This route is approached by climbing the first 3 pitches of "Jungle Mountaineering" then following the 3rd class trail leftwards up through the garden to the wall.

This is the first line of bolts that will be found on the wall.

1 5.9
2 5.9
3 5.9
4 5.10a

Climb the obvious clean water streak right of the Jungle Boy roof, on the generally left side of the wall.

(Dane's book describes this as run-out, and pitch 3 is listed as 5.9R in Ed's book -- but it has been re-bolted and is no more run-out than normal for EPC.)

1 5.8
2 5.8
3 5.10b
4 5.8
5 5.9
6 5.10b
7 5.9
8 5.9
9
10 5.10b
11 5.9
12 5.9
13 5.8
14 5.10b
15 5.12a

The summit register is at the end of pitch 13, most people skip the last two pitches, and, especially, the last pitch.

Climb easy slab with solid holds just to the right of Yankee Clipper, now with a plaque at the start.

Newly(2016) cleaned (re-cleaned? there's one really old bolt on it) route just to the right of "Yankee Clipper".

FA: Antonio Gonzalez, 2016

A new (2017) climb just right of La Chiky Baby; similar climmbing but a lot more run-out. Name plate on the bottom. .

FA: Antonio Gonzales, 22 Oct 2017

1 5.9
2 5.10a

About 5m left of Space Boyz. Technical slab climbing.

  1. 5.9 25m. Slab.

  2. 5.10a 25m. More slab, a bit steeper.

About 2 meters to the left of Space Boyz

Set by Don Loro, Miguel Guerra & Alysson Franklin, 24 Jun 2017

FA: Don Loro, 24 Jun 2017

1
2 5.9
3 5.9
4 5.9
5 5.10a
6 5.10d
7 5.10b
8 5.9
9 5.10a
10 5.9
11 5.9

This Potrero classic was bolted entirely on the weekends. Starts just north of the pavilion. Loose rock. Helmet recommended. Please be careful of the partying Mexicans below. This route has been climbed in 2 1/2 hours, car to car. Take 20 draws if you combine pitches, works well for 1&2, 3&4 and on top.

FA: Curtis Mai & Todd McCray, 1994

1
2 5.10b
3 5.6
4
5 5.9
6 5.10d
7 5.10b
8 5.10b
9 5.9

Starts just left of the tree climbing close to the aqueduct. Climbs the black streak through the large roof right of "Space Boyz".

  1. 5.9 20m, 4 bolts. Climb easy slab to a high bolt, with maybe one 5.9 move.

  2. 5.10b 25m, 9 bolts. Solid at the grade, with lots of good climbing.

  3. 5.6 15m, 3 bolts. A bit run-out, but short.

  4. 3rd class. Follow the fixed rope.

  5. 5.9 37m, 9 bolts. Climb easy ramp to high first bolt, then up broken and hollow flakes to fine crimping up a black streak.

  6. 5.10d 16 bolt. Face to a big roof.

  7. 5.10b

  8. 5.10b

  9. 5.9

FA: Magic Ed & Dane Bass

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