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Description

This is the clean slightly-overhanging golden brown wall across from the entrance to the swimming pools. It boasts some of the harder technical routes of Potrero Chico and some easier ones as well as multi pitch routes. It is in the sun from late morning till about 15:00 in December / January.

Access issues inherited from El Potrero Chico

Most of the climbing here is in a State Park and there is no fee to enter. Please help maintain a clean environment in order to help maintain these privileges.

Approach

Hike up from the concrete paltform on the other side of the swimming pools.

Ethic inherited from Nuevo León

Please don´t litter, some crags like LaHuasteca are a little farbolted, but thats how they were setted, please avoid adding bolts. Rebolting efforts are much apreciated, just sens a heads up to the local climbing comunity for safety reasons.

Routes

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Grade Route
1
2 5.10c
3 5.9

Pitch 1: 7 bolts, 30m Pitch 2: 6 bolts Pitch 3: 4 bolts

FA: Craig & Sylvia Luebben, 1998

Climb "Pepe y Lupe" then continue up the ridge for 7 more pitches -- lots of easy 4th & 5th class with the occasional head wall.

Starts at the blue graffiti and trends right up in the corner.

Anchor is close to the anchor of Same Same but different

Climbs first 5 bolts of "Scavenger", then angles left on new bolts. Shares anchor with 2nd pitch of "Pepe y Lupe".

Climbs first few bolts of "Scavenger" then continues up arete.

Starts with a rusty hanger and trends right on the ledge after the 5 bolt. At bolt 7 the route crosses Zuma Dog.

Starts 15ft right of the old bolts on "Scavenger". Finishes on the last 3 bolts of "Sketchpad".

At 40m, be very careful about lowering.

FA: Matt Greco

Starts on the grey slab and trends up right to an anchor on the grey rock.

Starts just left of the grey tufa, next to Camino del Diablo and Blade Runner. Go up and right after the 5th bolt, pull the small roof up on the grey rock.

Climb up to the ledge next to the small grey tufa and follow the crack trending right. There are different variants at the end of this route. 2 bolt anchor.

1 5.10c
2 5.10c
3 5.11a
4 5.10b

Starts on Camino del Diablo. There are 2 engraved aluminum signs fixed on the wall. Once on the ledge you trend right to the first anchor (which is where it crosses Hombre de Rifle) and continues on on the ridge.

P1: 5 bolts P2: 6 bolts P3: 10 bolts P4: 4 bolts

Rap down to top of pitch 2 and from there down to the ground.

Variation: start on "Camino del Diablo" and finish on "Hombre de Rifle".

Perma draws starting at bolt 3, crosses Blade Runner at its first anchor (bolt 5).

Starts on Hombre de Rifle and ends on Sabbath.

Start on Hombre de Rifle, once on the ledge go right and follow the bolt line above Blade Runner. Anchor is high up on grey rock.

Start on Hombre de Rifle, then follow the obviuos arrete after bolt 4 of Hombre de Rifle to the right. It is the bolt line on the face, the one on the ledge is for Blade Runner.

1 5.12a
2 5.13a

Same start as Cosmic Intelligence. First anchor same as Never on Friday or alternatively Blade Runner.

P1: 10 bolts, 24m P2: 9 bolts

Start together with Mexican Guarantee but branches out right after the first bolt.

Activity

Check out what is happening in Fin de Semana Wall.