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Description

An sector with excellent routes, mostly in the upper 5.11 and 5.12 range. Technical climbing on slabs and vertical grey and yellow rock. The long hike is worth it, for the climbs and the view!

Access issues inherited from El Potrero Chico

Most of the climbing here is in a State Park and there is no fee to enter. Please help maintain a clean environment in order to help maintain these privileges.

Approach

Follow the trail to Mota Wall (Lower Sense of Religion) and continue up. The trail branches right, away from the cliff for a while and when it takes you back, you are at Mileski Wall.

Ethic inherited from Nuevo León

Please don´t litter, some crags like LaHuasteca are a little farbolted, but thats how they were setted, please avoid adding bolts. Rebolting efforts are much apreciated, just sens a heads up to the local climbing comunity for safety reasons.

Routes

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Grade Route
1 5.11a
2 5.12c
3 5.11a

Starts at the far left of the ledge. You will see an aluminum plaque at the base in memory of Janosh Seidl. The first pitch trends out left into the crack.

70m rope is required to rap down.

Steep crack climbing and technical face climbing mulitpitch, following a natural line on the left side of the Mileski wall. The only route that goes to the top of the cliff above the entire Upper Sense of Religion, known as El Torero.

70m rope is mandatory. Can link at least pitches 3+4, and 13+14.

Please try it, and leave feedback! This is a new route, and use a trad mentality to test holds, have awareness of loose rock especially at the top, and be careful for those below. Have fun.

P1 5.11 Start on the ledge left of Permanent Vacation. Work left through lower-angle grey face to reach an obvious crack. Steep locks and stemming to the top. 32m, 9 bolts.

P2 5.12/+ Continue the pumpy crack for 5m to a rest, then 20m of continuous techy face climbing on excellent edges and pockets. 27m, 12 bolts.

P3 5.11 Another crack starts, with some pumpy moves until it eases up for fun, more sparsely bolted climbing. 34m, 13 bolts.

P4 5.7 Easy climbing over a bulge, then walk up low-angle slab. 35m, 5 bolts.

P5 5.10 Up from the ledge, works back right. 33m, 11 bolts

P6 5.11+ Multiple cruxes on great rock. Lots of balance moves, with three rest stances. 35m, 14 bolts

P7 5.11 Good crimping again, crux off the belay. 25m, 9 bolts.

P8 5.10+ Some long reaches with huecos and crimps. Goes through very pocketed volcanic-looking overhang feature. 30m, 14 bolts.

P9 5.10 Easy blocky start, then mantle a bulge. Finish with some delicate moves to belay. 30m, 11 bolts.

P10 5.10+ Fun face climb start off belay, then jugs to dihedral and a crimpy finish. One of our favorite pitches! 35m, 15 bolts.

P11 5.10 Balancy start, fun moves though deep pockets at overhang, trends to left. 30m, 13 bolts.

P12 5.10+ Not too difficult for first half, then some face climbing moves. 32m, 12 bolts.

P13 5.11 Fully engaging moves in a corner near the top, some loose rock to the left, pay attention. 35m, 14 bolts.

P14 5.10 To the top! Closely bolted in some sandy rock. The anchors go to a face just below the ridge. Can top out to the ridge with caution, whole top has loose rocks. 20m, 7 bolts.

FA: Dan Flynn & Daniel Trujillo, 2018

Starts on the left end of the ledge, just right of the aluminium plaque.

Starts just like 2 meters right of Permanent Vacation on the ledge.

First route right of the small ledge. Starts right of bush on dark grey rock up to light grey section and finishes left of the roof above the dark grey bulge.

Starts just right of Mother Superior with a small hueco with a horn. Stays left of the big roof.

This is probably the first route you see when you arrive at the wall. Pope is scratched onto the wall. It is the first route where the slab is oriented sightly more towards the west.

Starts on "Rain of Gold" and traverses left. Indistinct and hard to find.

Starts on Rain of Gold. Follow the left bolt line after bolt 5.

1 18m
2 5.13 22m

Starts in the corner with the nicely structured holes and heads out slightly left. First pitch 6 bolts.

Starts with the first bolt of Rain of Gold but continues straight up.

1
2 5.13a
3 5.12
4 5.12c

Starts right of Little Elvis on the grey slab.

1
2 5.10d
3 5.11a
1
2 5.11d
3 5.11d
4 5.11b
5 5.11c
6 5.13a

Sparsely bolted, long run-outs.

retro-bolted trad route

1
2 5.11a
3 5.11a
4 5.11d
5 5.12c
6

As of 2012 guides, home-made bolt hangars, trustworthiness unkown and long runouts.

1 5.7
2 5.9
3 5.11a

Activity

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