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Description

Light grey wall with some interesting vertical to overhanging dihedrals, it has a good variety of quality routes.

Access issues inherited from El Potrero Chico

Most of the climbing here is in a State Park and there is no fee to enter. Please help maintain a clean environment in order to help maintain these privileges.

Approach

Walk farther up the canyon -- generally along the wall from the "Cat Wall". you can walk up the stairs from the park, from november to march the entrance is closed (pool entrance) but you can hop over the fence, In pool season you can enter free if you indicate you are going climbing, they can´t charge you if you are going climbing, remember being courteous and say hi to everyone.

Puedes llegar a esta pared por las escaleras del parque reccreativo que lleva a los miradores, de noviembre a marzo la entrada está cerrada, pero puedes saltar la cerca. En temporada de alberca puedes entrar por el parque indicando que vas a escalar, no te pueden cobrar si vas a escalar. Recuerda ser cortés y saludar a todos

Ethic inherited from Nuevo León

Please don´t litter, some crags like LaHuasteca are a little farbolted, but thats how they were setted, please avoid adding bolts. Rebolting efforts are much apreciated, just sens a heads up to the local climbing comunity for safety reasons.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit
Grade Route
1 5.10c
2 5.11c
1 5.8
2 5.9
3 5.9
1 5.10a
2 5.11a
3 5.11d
4 5.12b

(I think this was originally a 2-pitch route, later extended to 4 pitches.)

1 5.5
2 5.12b

70m rope recommended

Starts off the big ledge 135ft up, climb Cabeza or Selam to access.

Starts off the big ledge 135ft up, climb Cabeza or Selam to access.

Climb clean face to obvious overhang, pull overhang and finish up slab above to anchors.

With a 70m rope, and rope stretch from a heavyish climber, you can just barely reach almost the ground. Knot rope before belaying and lowering!

With a 60m, bring 2nd up, then rappel twice using anchors for Flying Scorpions. recommended

FA: Dane Bass

Start on the dark grey streak.

FA: Rick Ross & Dane Bass

Starts from the Amateur ledge, above "Sancho Panza" -- or access it from the end of the 3rd class ledge (up a corner, 1 bolt) in the "Upper Virgin Wall".

Starts from the Amateur ledge, above "Sancho Panza" -- or access it from the end of the 3rd class ledge (up a corner, 1 bolt) in the "Upper Virgin Wall".

Dane says, "open project", Ed says, "unfinished, keep off".

1 5.12a
2 5.11a

The REAL GRADE of this route si 5.11c. If you decide to stay on the blank face of the wall and DO NOT use the dihedral/arète on the right side of the final section the grade is harder 5.12a/b but this is a variation and should not be considered the official grade of the route since it is not the best beta.

Start on "Mugre Mugre", step right at the flake, then up to new anchor.

Another retro-bolted trad route.

Activity

Check out what is happening in Lower Virgin Wall.