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1 5.11-
2 5.11-
3 5.9
4 5.8
5 5.8
6 5.8
7 5.4
8 5.12-
9 5.9
10 5.10
11 5.11
12 5.11
13 5.10+
14 5.11
15 5.12
16 5.10
17 5.9
18 5.9
19 5.10
20 5.11
21 5.9
22 5.10
23 5.9
24 5.9
25 5.8
26 5.10
27 5.7

description

Overview:

  • 'Approach' pitches, 1-6: 5.11-, 11-, 9, 8, 8, 8
  • 'Bivy' Ledge (complete with fire pit, stashed sleeping bag, pads, blankets, dice, backgammon and Yahtzee =)
  • 'Middle' pitches, 7-15: 5.4, 12-/10+A0, 9, 10, 11, 11, 10+, 11, 12/10A0
  • 'Lunch Ledge'
  • 'Upper' pitches, 16-27: 5.10, 9, 9+,10, 11, 9, 10, 9+, 9, 8, 10, 7
  • Descent: WALK OFF

Descent Beta... from the northern summit, walk the knife-edge ridge to the southern summit, turn right, roughly following the ridge-line (but staying slightly below on the southern side) to a notch. one rappel into the col, cross the col, and hike back up to the ridge-line to join the Toro trail at the cross.

NOTES: - this is not just a long 'sport' route, like "Timewave". It is a different beast, altogether, very alpine, adventure climbing. Major commitment, big exposure, traverses, some choss, etc... - you can bail reasonably well up through pitch 17. Rappelling from above that point will be complicated, at best, due to traverses. If you do pitch 18, you are pretty committed to going to the top.

  • during the FA, it was decided that pitch 20 needs another bolt at the crux. Its a little runout and exposed. I will fix this next season, but didn´t want to hold back opening the route to the public. fair warning, however... we fashioned a stick-clip on the spot.
  • I have done a LOT of cleaning, but until the route sees traffic, there will always be some loose rock. pitches 3 and 7 are particularly chossy (but easy).
  • pitches 5 and 6 are not current rappelable, due to the traverse and lack of rings (you could of course leave biners or quicklinks). there is currently a fixed rope. it is in good condition as of this writing.
  • there are still fixed lines on most of the harder sections, pitches 1-2, 8, 10-15. pitch 20 does NOT have a fixed line
  • Linking... most pitches are between 25-30m. all can be rappeled with 60m. most can be linked. 14,15, and 18 you definitely want to pitch out. 19, 20, 21, use your judgement (we chose to pitch them out, but i think you could 20-21). 24-25 i linked, but drag was pretty rough at the top.
  • the photo below was done early on. slight changes in the route were made, and the upper pitch numbers (which were estimated) turned out incorrect. i dont have an original photo to reproduce the image (feel free to send me one, Rancho Sendero is a good vantage point). its not perfect, but its close. it should give you an idea of the route, at least.

Feel free to contact can contact Eric Werfel at eric.werfel@gmail.com with questions.

Route history

Mar 2018Route setter: Eric Werfel
Mar 2018First ascent: Eric Werfel & Seth Williams

Warnings

Location

Lat/Lon: 25.95335, -100.48404

Grade citation

5.11-, 5.11-, 5.9, 5.8, 5.8, 5.8, 5.4, 5.12- or 5.10+A0, 5.9, 5.10, 5.11, 5.11, 5.10+, 5.11, 5.12 or 5.10A0, 5.10, 5.9, 5.9+, 5.10, 5.11, 5.9, 5.10, 5.9+, 5.9, 5.8, 5.10, 5.7 Assigned grade
5.11-, 5.11-, 5.9, 5.8, 5.8, 5.8, 5.4, 5.12-/5.10+A0, 5.9, 5.10, 5.11, 5.11, 5.10+, 5.11, 5.12/5.10 A0, 5.10, 5.9, 5.9+, 5.10, 5.11, 5.9, 5.10, 5.9+, 5.9, 5.8, 5.10, 5.7 Bernii

ethic

Please don´t litter, some crags like LaHuasteca are a little runout, but thats how they were set, please avoid adding bolts. Rebolting efforts are much apreciated, just send a heads up to the local climbing comunity for safety reasons.

inherited from Nuevo León

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Seasonality

Quality

Mega Classic
Classic
Very Good
Good
Average
Don't Bother
Crap

Overall quality 92 from 2 ratings.

Tick Types

Tick 2
Target 2

Comment keywords

Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Frank P. Madden

Date: 2022

ISBN: 979-8218024314

The latest guidebook to El Potrero Chico is now available in its third edition. This book has comprehensive detail of not just the routes but how and when to be there. Single pitch or multi-pitch, this book has it all. More great crag photos to help locate the spot you want to climb as well as plenty of topo photos to help you find all the routes you will want to climb. The new edition also has a new history, local history and geology section of the guidebook produced by local members of the community! There is also the long awaited index by grade! A comprehensive guidebook for all of El Potrero Chico, Las Ventanas de Mina (Crescent Moon Buttress and Culo de Gato), Grutas de García, La Popa and Boca de los Potrerillos. Including a couple newly developed crags called Narnia and SunnyVale, and more than a few new routes unpublished anywhere else. Has multi-pitch topo photos for the classic routes with pitch by pitch information.

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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