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Description

This is why you come to the Boca! A tall wall with yellowish rock, slightly overhanging with great lines. Many routes have (hard) extensions but you also find warm-ups left (on grey rock) and right.

Approach

Hike in to the Boca and take a left once you see the wash and the wall, impossible to miss.

Ethic inherited from El Salto; C.d.G.

Climbing around Cienega de Gonzalez developed over many years and was and is being carried out by many different developers. Many of them local Mexicans but also loads of foreigners that pass through, bolt and "disappear". The information about climbs in this area is thus incomplete in the sense of route names, developers, first ascensionists and sometimes even grades. Please contribute by entering your grade contributions (Edit Route, enter grade, safe) and by adding new routes and information whenever you encounter it. The climbing community will be thankful!

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

Trends left along the obvious crack to the anchor next to the tree.

FA: Connie Catlin

Climbs up into a small roof and anchors just above.

Set by Connie Catlin

Anchor is on the small blank face high up.

Set by Ulric, Dec 2013

FA: Ulric, Dec 2013

Set by Ulric, Dec 2013

FA: Ulric, Dec 2013

Starts just half a meter right of Piña-Colada and trends right to an anchor in the yellowish rock.

Set by Ulric, Dec 2013

FA: Ulric/Paul Brenner, Dec 2013

A very well bolted line.

FA: Ulric, Dec 2013

Climb the "horn". Anchor on the head wall next to the big horn.

Start on stainless steel hangers of 'War One' to the ledge. Tread left at the fourth bolt.

Set by Ulric, Dec 2013

Set by Paya, 2012

FA: Paya, 2012

Escala el diedro obvio que esta sobreprotegido con 4 plaquetas y llegas a una reunión después de salir del diedro. La ruta tiene una pequeña extensión.

Set by Alex Catlin, 2001

Technical and slightly overhanging line on the face that follows a sweeping flake and then a series of tufas. Left of Hijo De Puta which has permadraws all the way up.

FA: James Cruikshank/Jay Foley, 1998

Honey Bear's extension

Starts just right of Honey Bear. V5ish crux up high. Permadraws starting at bolt 4 on a clean face with tufas.

FA: Paul Irby, 1998

Set by Joel Guadarrama

FFA: Ricardo Vara

Abducción Anunnaki + Honey Bitch

Shares first bolt with Fuerza Civil.

Set by Rodrigo Maldonado

Set by Ulric, Dec 2013

Es una ruta corta y dura de acomodar el cuerpo para subir por un diedro que está inclinado un poco a la derecha.

Set by El Vario

FFA: David Ramiro Zúñiga

Set by Ulric, Dec 2013

Open Project

Set by Ulric, Dec 2013

Shares the first few bolts with Trucutrulove, then continues on straight up. Original route was 5.12d, then a rest hold broke turning it into a 5.13a.

Shares a start with a 12d but trends right. Used to be 11c, but a block was trundled making it much harder at the crux, chains were added before the crux.

Starts on the big separated block and continues on the head wall.

Trends out right from the first anchor for 5 more bolts.

Starts on the right side of the big boulder (4 bolts, 3 behind the block), then sketchy move to get to the wall. If you go straight the grade is 5.11b+, but if at the crux you go left then it is a 5.11a.

Set by Ulric, Dec 2013

FA: Ulric, Dec 2013

6 bolts more past 'The Sound of the First Season' Closed Project

Set by Ulric, Dec 2013

1 5.11b
2 5.13a
3 5.12b
4 5.12b

FA: James Carse, 1998

Es la grieta que está en el diedro de la pared, a la izquierda de la arista gris.

Es la arista gris que está a la derecha del diedro donde está la grieta.

Dirty rock down low leads to glassy climbing up high.

FA: Ulrich Rousseau, Mar 2014

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