A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
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Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
Grant Hodges Santiago Vaca Justin Case Carlos vargas zambrano Bruno Garcia Manolo Ruiz Emma Ayling Ali S. Alex Osorio Iván Duarte
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Table of contents
- 1.
Jilotepec / Peñas de Dexcani
219 in Crag
- 1.1. Comité de Bienvenida 3 in Cliff
-
1.2.
El Huevo 72 in Cliff
- 1.2.1. Ay Nanita 7 in Sector
- 1.2.2. Día de Campo 19 in Sector
- 1.2.3. Capilla y Megasesino 9 in Sector
- 1.2.4. Patio Trasero 5 in Sector
- 1.2.5. El Encino 5 in Sector
- 1.2.6. Las Hadas 14 in Sector
- 1.2.7. Frenesí 13 in Sector
- 1.3. Lado Oscuro de la Luna 3 in Cliff
- 1.4. Sector Lunar 11 in Cliff
- 1.5. El Circo 20 in Cliff
- 1.6. Callejón del Beso 5 in Cliff
- 1.7. Alimañas 2 in Cliff
- 1.8. Mecánicos 15 in Cliff
- 1.9. Cósmico 13 in Cliff
- 1.10. El Infinito 6 in Cliff
- 1.11. Sector Local 14 in Cliff
- 1.12. Santería 5 in Cliff
- 1.13. Sal de mí 12 in Cliff
- 1.14. El Pilar 4 in Cliff
- 1.15. El Poste 6 in Cliff
- 1.16. Pepe el Toro 5 in Cliff
- 1.17. Terrorismo 4 in Cliff
- 1.18. El Olimpo 19 in Sector
- 2. Index by grade
1. Jilotepec 219 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 19.922611, -99.490121
summary
Conglomerate! Enjoy the tiny pepples for cruxes and grippy volcanic stone for foot holds. Mexico's hardest sport climbing and a beautiful place to be. 2 hours north of Mexico city.
description
Slabs, vertical climbs and steep overhangs - all a few minutes away from your car and located in a nice forest. Many sectors are shaded by trees. The crag is located at about 2700m ASL, making it a great climbing area even when it is hot.
Weekends can be quite busy, as many climbers arrive from surrounding regions. Even moreso if you add all the families coming for picnics and hiking in the park.
access issues
Park entrance as of 2023 is 25 pesos per person, per day. This fee includes camping access.
approach
Find your way to Jilotepec and from there drive up and through Dexcani Bajo and Dexcani Alto. Pass the soccer field of Dexcani Alto and pass the gate of the park (keeping left). Drive up a steep road to reach the parking. You can see the first sectors from your car.
where to stay
Camp at El Huevo. Or stay in Jilotepec.
history
Lots of drilled holds from the French, and tons of history from the 90's. Mexico's hardest sport climbing!
1.1. Comité de Bienvenida 3 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 19.920333, -99.489230
description
Entry level routes, well protected, conveniently located.
approach
As you ascend the steps to El Huevo, these are the routes on your immediate right.
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Unknown
Starts on the slab and goes up to the top of the pillar. | 14m, 10 | ||||||
2 |
★★ La Prima de Nancy
Second route on RHS. | 5.8 | 14m, 9 | |||||
3 |
★★ Nancy
First climb to the RHS. | 5.9 | 8m, 5 |
1.2. El Huevo 72 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 19.919420, -99.488991
description
This is the big "boulder" just right up the stairs with sectors all around it. Sectors are listed clockwise around the boulder starting at the lower left end.
approach
Just hike up the stairs and keep right, the trail goes all around El Huevo.
1.2.1. Ay Nanita 7 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 19.920012, -99.488893
description
Area que esta pasando el Comite de Bienvenida y antes de los desplomes feroces!
Area which is past Comite de Bienvenida and before the fierce overhangs!
approach
Pasando los escalones.
Past the steps.
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★ La Llorona | 5.13b | 20m, 10 | |||||
2 | ★★ El Nahual | 5.12d | 20m, 10 | |||||
3 |
★★★ Chaneque / El Chalenque
Same start as the dynamic 11c to the right then cut left after the no hands rest. A beautiful v3/4 boulder problem on crimps and pebbles over the bulge. A must do | 5.12a | 15m, 10 | |||||
4 |
★★ El Chahustle / Chahuiztle
A very dynamic reachy move to begin with a easier middle and pumpy finish. | 5.11c | 15m, 9 | |||||
5 |
El Coco
Very hard boulder off the ground, relatively easy climbing to finish. | 15m, 6 | ||||||
6 |
★★ El Hombre del Costal
Boulder start to clip the first bolt, using the rock stack to reach the initial holds. Sit start using the good L hand undercling goes at ~V6. | 5.11b | 17m, 9 | |||||
7 |
★★ El Charro Negro
Around the corner on the right. | 5.10c | 20m, 9 |
1.2.2. Día de Campo 19 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 19.919800, -99.488803
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Pasto y Arroz
Set: Chaman | 5.13c/d | ||||||
2 |
★★★ Ragnarok
Empieza a la izquierda de Requiem, compartiendo las ultimas plaquetas junto con la reunión. Set: Bruno Garcia | 5.14b/c | 40m | |||||
3 |
Requiem
FFA: Miguel Hernandez | 5.14a | 35m, 17 | |||||
4 |
Doomsday
Variante que conecta la entrada de Requiem con el Proyecto de German Wing Set: Bruno Garcia & Ulisesfierro | 5.13d | 11 | |||||
5 |
German Wing
Direct start into Doomsday. | |||||||
6 |
★★★ Pantomima
Una ruta de resistencia, siendo de las más largas del sector en cuanto a recorrido. Empieza en las primeras 5 plaquetas del “Belltunich” alargando esa quinta cinta para hacer travesía hacia “Doomsday” protegiendo una cinta de esta ruta a la misma altura para poder continuar la travesía hacia “Réquiem” y terminar en las cadenas de esta FA: Bruno Garcia, 16 Mar | 5.13c/d | 45m | |||||
7 | ★★★ Bell Tunich | 5.13d | 30m, 15 | |||||
8 |
★★ Mas si osare un extraño enemigo
The classic of the crag. 45m’s of spectacular, relentless tension. No move harder then V5 but hundreds of them. Always equipped with draws and the must do of the crag. | 5.13c | 45m, 25 | |||||
9 |
Balrog
FA: Bruno Garcia | 5.13d | ||||||
10 | ★★ Azoe | 5.13d | 30m, 14 | |||||
11 | ★★★ Las Chicas Súper Poderosas | 5.14c | 30m, 15 | |||||
12 |
Chicas Superlujuriosas
A link-up with one additional bolt between the 2 routes. Set: Bruno Garcia | |||||||
13 |
★★ Lujuria
FA: Mauricio Huerta, 2016 | 5.14c | ||||||
14 |
Ira
Set: Javier Serratos | |||||||
15 | ★★★ Venus de Jilo | 5.14a | 25m, 12 | |||||
16 | Monte de Venus | |||||||
17 |
El Constructor de Sueños
FFA: Enzo Oddo, Jan 2020 | 5.14+ | 40m, 19 | |||||
18 | El Chicharito de la Venus | 23m | ||||||
19 | Los Chícharos Asesinos | 5.13c | 17m, 8 |
1.2.3. Capilla y Megasesino 9 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 19.919566, -99.488708
description
2 faces, going up the steps past the chapel, there is Capilla and then Megasesino.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★★ Megasesino
In the Megasesino face. 9 bolts + anchors. es la primera ruta de alta dificultad equipada en el area, el aarmador la dejo natural y poco tiempo despues el primer asencionista le tallo agarres y sico otros sin permiso, actualmente el grado a variado FFA: diego alvarez Set: carlos vargas, 2001 | 5.14c | 15m, 9 | |||||
2 |
Electroshocks
ruta inconclusa por el armador solo esta colocados los seguros para acercarse a la pared e instalar los anclajes quimicos sigue esperando que se termine el trabajo Set: diego alvarez, 2001 | proyecto | 15m | |||||
3 | Ba'al Z'vuy | 18m, 12 | ||||||
|
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
4 |
Cruz Diablo
In the Capilla face. 11 bolts + anchors. FFA: Steve McClure, 2010 | 5.14c | 25m, 11 | |||||
5 | Rivendel | 20m, 9 | ||||||
6 | Pakal | 19m, 8 | ||||||
7 |
★★★ Números Romanos
Variante de Números Rojos, conecta con un proyecto a la derecha a través de un bolt agregado FA: Bruno Garcia, Feb 2023 | 5.13d | 25m, 12 | |||||
8 |
★★★ Números Rojos
In the Capilla face. 9 bolts + anchors. FFA: Miguel Hernandez | 5.13d | 25m, 9 | |||||
9 |
Unknown
Proyecto |
1.2.4. Patio Trasero 5 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 19.919262, -99.488800
description
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★★ Chiquito Chillón | 5.10a | 27m, 13 | |||
2 | ★ Te Empino Asesino | 5.11d | 10m, 6 | |||
3 | ★ Demongo | 5.11b | 13m, 8 | |||
4 | Aku | 5.11c | 15m, 10 | |||
5 | Saltapatrás | 5.12b | 33m, 10 |
1.2.5. El Encino 5 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 19.919320, -99.488923
description
Sector que comparte frontera con Las Hadas y patio trasero. Long and steep routes with little traffic and not the best rock - careful on the projects!
approach
Subiendo por la vereda de la derecha del huevo se llega a las adas y unos metros mas arriba se accede a los encinos inicia justo donde se ubica el encino cerca de la pared donde se hallan las rutas de Las Hadas.
history
Otro de los prieros sectores desarrollados por el fesp en el lugar. Junto con las adas en este sector un poco olvidado aun permanecen como proyecto las primeras rutas armadas. El Encino asesino y el encino te empino. junto al arbol.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ el encino asesino
inicia a la derecha del encino que crece junto a la pared es la primera ruta del sector Set: alfredo martines el diablo, 2001 | 5.12d | 35m, 14 | |||
2 |
el encino te empino
segunda ruta de izquierda a derecha subiendo por la vereda después del árbol junto a la pared Set: chacha, 2001 | 30m, 12 | ||||
3 |
★★ desesperacion
nueva ruta armada aproximadamente 10 metros a la derecha de el encino te empino. Set: chacha/ melvin, 2014 | 30m, 13 | ||||
4 |
★ desapariciones
4 metros a la derecha de " desesperacion" ruta de 35 metros cuidado con la cuerda se necesita de 70 metros para bajar Set: chacha/lucas pedroza, 2014 FFA: chacha, 2014 FA: chacha, 2014 | 5.11b | 35m, 15 | |||
5 | ★★ Chachita | 5.12b | 20m |
1.2.6. Las Hadas 14 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 19.919537, -99.489114
description
Este sector se ubica por la parte de atras del huevo se accede al subir las escaleras hacia el desplome y tomar la vereda de la derecha hasta llegar a la parte mas alta del huevo comparte frontera con el sector de frenesi. es facil identificarlo por que las rutas son las mas desplomadas de esa area.
approach
Subiendo por la vereda de la derecha al llegar al huevo.
history
este es el primer sector armado por el fesp. en el año 2000 y donde de forma colectiva se colocaron las primeras reuniones y rutas como proyecto abierto para todos. nos tomo mucho tiempo descubrir como ascender las rutas y algunos errores, pero al final es el sector mas popular dentro del nivel alto de dificultad. se caracteriza por que el nombre de las rutas terminan en ada. de ahi el nombre del sector. las adas
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Concaquita
Starts just 2m up from Matatena. | 5.11b | 20m, 7 | |||||
2 |
★★ La Pulpanocha
es la segunda ruta del sector de izquierda a a derecha por donde sube la vereda Set: arcady artis, 2006 FA: carlos vargas, 2006 | 5.12d | 20m, 9 | |||||
3 |
★★★ Excitada
tercera ruta del sector. de pasos tecnicos al inicio mucho equlibrio y explsiva en la parte media Set: marina enriques FA: carlos vargas | 5.12c | 20m, 10 | |||||
4 |
★★ Arrimada
Set: javier canche | 5.13a/b | 20m, 10 | |||||
5 |
★★ Malhablada
Set: arcady artis | 5.13b | 20m, 10 | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
6 |
★★★ Empoderada
La línea que tiene cintas permanentes Set: Bruno Garcia FA: Bruno Garcia, Jan 2023 | 5.13b | 21m | |||||
7 |
★★ Desalmada
Clasica del sector, tiene agarres tallados. A crimpy start leads to a rest on 2 bigger holds, then the action kicks in and doesn't stop till you reach the anchors. Set: bernardo/ alex concha, 2001 FA: carlos vargas, 2001 | 5.12d | 20m, 10 | |||||
8 |
★★★ Estirada
Nueva Variante que empieza en Empoderada, al proteger el sexto Bolt hace travesía hacia Desalmada protegiendo un Bolt de esta ruta para conectar sobre unas regletas muy pequeñas con Desalmada Natural, haciendo la parte mas difícil de esta vía, al final, en la reunión hace travesía para conectar con Despiadada y finalizar en la reunión de ésta. FA: Bruno Garcia, 5 Jan | 5.13d | 35m | |||||
9 |
★★★ Desalmada Natural
Solía ser una variación de Desalmada, pero ahora cuenta con plaquetas independientes para el inicio. Aún así se comparten algunos agarres en el inicio. Es una vía muy bonita con un crux largo y aéreo. Set: javier canche FA: javier canche | 5.13b | 25m, 10 | |||||
10 |
★★ Despiadada
excelente ruta de recorrido largo, tener cuidado con la bajada se necesita cuerda de almenos 60 metros FA: diego alvarez | 5.13b | 35m, 17 | |||||
11 |
★★ Apretada
FA: Bruno Garcia Set: Bruno Garcia, Feb 2023 | 5.13b | 24m | |||||
12 |
★★ Endiablada
la mas clasica del sector es la primera ruta tallada en jilotepec pero la mas recomendable. exposiva tecnica y ruda Set: jonathan solano | 5.12d | 23m, 8 | |||||
13 |
★★★ Iluminada
Entrada como de 12- para llegar a un Boulder duro en el desplome Set: Bruno Garcia, Feb 2023 FA: Bruno Garcia, Apr 2023 | 5.13d | 23m | |||||
14 |
Azotada
One of the hardest routes in the sector. Climbs the obvious overhang. | 5.13d | 22m, 9 |
1.2.7. Frenesí 13 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 19.919909, -99.489161
description
A popular sector, many nice technical routes on vertical face.
approach
Turn right at Ay Nanita, continue up the hill.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Pápaloquelite
The first route on your left. Doesn't appear to get any traffic. | 12m, 5 | ||||||
2 | Babún | 10m, 6 | ||||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
3 | Mondongo | 5.12c | 10m, 4 | |||||
4 | Taquito de Pata | 5.12c | 16m, 8 | |||||
5 | Rica Pancita | |||||||
6 |
★★★ Frenesí
Crimps all the way. Recommended to stick clip the first 2 bolts. | 5.12b | 14m, 6 | |||||
7 |
★★★ Ceylan
A beautiful crimp fest for the first 5 bolts. | 5.12b | 22m, 8 | |||||
8 |
Todavía con Hambre
Una ruta nueva. Comparte dos anillos con Gula (la sexta y séptima). Reunión está en 3 anillos arriba de Gula. FFA: Gustavo Suarez Set: Carlos Chacha | 5.12c | 25m, 10 | |||||
9 |
★★★ Gula
Starts just left of the tree and trends left up top. | 5.11c | 17m, 7 | |||||
10 |
★★ Pipetaputo
The route right of Gula. A technical start, followed by crimpy and sustained climbing. | 5.11d | 12m, 5 | |||||
11 |
★★ El Alacrán
Bouldery low section leads to easier climbing. | 5.11a | 17m, 7 | |||||
12 |
★ Serpientes y Escaleras
Hard bouldery start. Consider stick clip. | 5.11b | 18m, 7 | |||||
13 | Matatena | 5.11b | 17m, 6 |
1.3. Lado Oscuro de la Luna 3 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 19.920370, -99.488461
description
Short routes with very little traffic.
approach
Follow the left side of Sector Luna a little bit uphill. The sector starts just left of the obvious ramp.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Via Láctea | 5.12a | 9m, 4 | |||
2 | El Cazador de Astros | 5.11a | 7m, 3 | |||
3 | Manto Lunar | 5.11d | 6m, 3 |
1.4. Sector Lunar 11 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 19.920171, -99.488661
description
Contains some long easier routes in the section next to the grassy area, and some harder vertical/overhung routes around the corner to the left.
approach
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ La Lateral
The obvious left leaning ramp. | 5.9 | 20m, 10 | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
2 | Mare Serenitatis | 21m, 9 | ||||||
3 |
★★★ Mare Imbrium
Inicio duro en el desplome para terminar con una placa bastante técnica. Hay dos hebras muy grandes con escalada no muy fácil. Conviene extender cintas mucho para intentos a muerte FA: Miguel H | 5.13d | 17m, 10 | |||||
4 | Lunave | 5.12c | 17m, 8 | |||||
5 |
Sonrisa de Luna
Línea variante. Entrada independiente pero termina en la reunión del Lunave. Set: Bruno Garcia | 5.12c/d | ||||||
6 |
★★ Cuarto Menguante
Trends left around the corner after the initial slab. Grado original de 12c puede aplicar si escalas recto entre bolts en la parte arriba. | 5.12b | 18m, 9 | |||||
7 |
★★ Aullido de Luna
Goes directly up the pillar at the corner of the cliff. | 5.10c | 24m, 11 | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
8 |
★ Luna de Octubre
Long route, has an intermediate anchor. | 5.8 | 39m, 14 | |||||
9 |
★★ Suavicremas
Straight up for 4 bolts and then trends right to an anchor next to a small bush. | 5.10a | 27m, 10 | |||||
10 | ★★ Chokis | 5.9 | 22m, 9 | |||||
11 | ★★ Don Galleto | 5.9 | 22m, 11 |
1.5. El Circo 20 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 19.919579, -99.488355
description
Another popular sector, with quality slab/vertical routes in the 5.10-5.11 grade range.
approach
En el espacio donde esta el pozo, del otro lado de los desplomes horribles, si subes una subidita y luego te vas tantito a la derecha, encuentras el circo.
You'll find El Circo on the cliff opposite the huge overhangs of El Huevo. First reach Sector Lunar, then walk up the hill a bit, direction right. There is a 50m gap separating the sectors.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Estrella Negra
The first route you encounter in El Circo as you walk up the hill. At the same height as the shrine. | 5.11b | 11m, 6 | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
2 | ★★ Nibiru | 5.10a | 10m, 7 | |||||
3 |
★★ La Taquillera
Jug haul with a small overhang at the start. | 5.10c | 18m, 7 | |||||
4 |
★★ ¿?
Primera ruta a la derecha de la taquillera con el crux entre la seguna y tercer placa | 5.11a | 18m, 7 | |||||
5 |
★★ La Trapecista
Slightly overhung start on good holds. | 5.11a | 20m, 9 | |||||
6 |
★★ Titerotes
Starts with a big "missing pebble", left of the tree and behind the big boulder on the ground. | 5.10c | 23m, 8 | |||||
7 | ★★ La Malabarista | 5.10a | 23m, 9 | |||||
8 | ★★ Cirque du Soleil | 5.10b | 27m, 8 | |||||
9 | ★★ La Gallina de Dos Cabezas | 5.10c | 28m, 9 | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
10 |
★★ El Motociclista en la Esfera de la Muerte
The first route when you arrive on the "flat part" of the base of El Circo. | 5.11a | 25m, 10 | |||||
11 |
★★ Sin Nombre 1
Sustained climbing on quality rock. | 5.11a | 28m, 10 | |||||
12 |
★★ El Carrito de Bomberos
A small crux just before the anchors. | 5.11a | 25m, 8 | |||||
13 |
★★ El Equilibrista
First bolt is relatively high but easy climbing. Great crimping to the anchors. | 5.10d | 28m, 8 | |||||
14 |
★★ La Mujer Peluda
In the center of the "curve". Very high first bolt and maybe a little run-out at times. | 5.11c | 27m, 7 | |||||
15 |
★★★ La Contorsionista
Just right of the center line, a classic. | 5.11d | 27m, 11 | |||||
16 | ★★ El Maestro de Ceremonias | 5.12b | 30m, 11 | |||||
17 |
★ El encantador de pulgas
La ruta a la derecha del maestro de ceremonias, tiene la reunion después de un techito | 5.12b | ||||||
18 | ★ El Encantador de Serpientes | 5.10a | 30m, 10 | |||||
19 |
★ El Ma'Monito
The last route on the far right of the cliff. There is an intermediate anchor at about 20m up to come down with a shorter rope. | 5.10c | 46m, 18 | |||||
20 |
★★ El Ma'Monito L1
El Ma'Monito up to the first anchor only. | 5.10a | 22m, 8 |
1.6. Callejón del Beso 5 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 19.918083, -99.488502
description
A small canyon high up above the other sectors with very little traffic.
approach
Hike passed the chapel as if you go to El Circo but continue straight up. If in doubt, keep left towards the cliff. At one point you will see a big rock stuck between 2 rock faces making up a small canyon. On the left side of it (might by quite moosy) you will find smoe steps that were chisseled in the rock. Climb up and continue slightly left. You will see the beginning of the cliff after some scrambling.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | De Lengüita | 12m, 7 | ||||
2 | De Trompita | 11m, 7 | ||||
3 | Manita Sudada | 21m, 12 | ||||
4 | Bechocho | 20m, 12 | ||||
5 | Amor Secreto | 21m, 12 |
1.7. Alimañas 2 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 19.919181, -99.490375
description
An almost unclimbed, if not to say abandoned area.
approach
Hike to Mecánicos and continue up.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | El Chiniquil | 5.11d | 10m, 7 | |||
2 | Catarina | 5.9 | 27m, 8 |
1.8. Mecánicos 15 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 19.919667, -99.490062
description
Nice and harder routes with lots of shade. The cliff base is a bit steep at some places.
approach
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★★ Piii Piii!
Set: Martin Salvador, 2023 | 5.12c | ||||||
2 |
Runrún
Set: Martin Salvador, 21 Oct 2023 | 5.12b | ||||||
3 |
Registro Contable 2021
Sigue por la izquierda de la grieta Set: 2023 | 5.11c | ||||||
4 |
★★ Traver
Sigue por la derecha de la grieta | 5.12b | 17m, 8 | |||||
5 | ★★★ Me costó trabajo | 5.13a | 19m, 10 | |||||
6 | ★★★ Servicio Flores | 5.12c | 18m, 10 | |||||
7 | ★★★ Mecánicos en la Bahía | 5.13a | 19m, 10 | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
8 | Bule Bule | 5.12d | 18m, 8 | |||||
9 |
★★★ Innovación Mecánica
A technical start leads to steep climbing on good holds. Glue ins were put in down low on 29. April 2019. | 5.12a | 19m, 9 | |||||
10 | Trapito | 5.13a | 12m, 9 | |||||
11 |
★★★ Come Mecos
Movimientos chidos en el desplome, sostenido. Tiene 3 perma cintas por el medio. | 5.12d | 24m, 11 | |||||
12 |
★★ Techo de Menos
Boulder al final | 5.12b | 18m, 9 | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
13 |
★★ Soy un cacahuate
Classic for grade. Shallow pockets. Starts on the step, 3rd bolt on the large rock face. | 5.11d | 17m, 6 | |||||
14 | ★ Chacahua | 5.12d | 10m, 7 | |||||
15 |
Ardilla Mecánica
Route is located at the far bottom (right side) of Mecánicos, ~50m down the hill. | 5.11b | 13m, 5 |
1.9. Cósmico 13 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 19.919566, -99.490674
description
Excellent longer routes and easy access.
approach
Hike over from "Frenesí" or walk back down on the road from the parking for 50m and take the trail up on the left. It is the well marked trail that leads to the summit of the Peñas.
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Coruscant | 23m, 13 | ||||||
2 | Naboo | 5.12d | 30m, 13 | |||||
3 |
★★★ Endor
Bonita del inicio al final | 5.12c | 25m, 9 | |||||
4 |
Tatooine
Comparte los primeros dos bolts, después desvía a la derecha | 5.13c | 25m, 9 | |||||
5 |
★★★ Mustafar
Increible ruta técnica y dura de crimps con su respectiva resistencia Set: Bruno Garcia, 17 Apr | 5.13c | ||||||
6 |
★ Melmak
A la izquierda del árbol, sigue la grieta | 5.11d | 17m, 8 | |||||
7 | Tundera | 12m, 12 | ||||||
8 | Vegita | 13m, 8 | ||||||
9 | Alfa | 15m, 10 | ||||||
10 | Namekuseín | 17m, 9 | ||||||
11 | Pollux | 19m, 10 | ||||||
12 | Titán | 5.12b | 23m, 10 | |||||
13 | Tritón | 5.11c | 21m, 9 |
1.10. El Infinito 6 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 19.919059, -99.490732
description
Mostly projects, a sector with little traffic.
approach
As for "Cósmico" but continue up the trail until it takes a right along the cliff.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Los Forajidos | 5.11d | 18m, 9 | |||
2 | Eternium | 28m, 14 | ||||
3 | Mecosmos | 5.12b | 27m, 15 | |||
4 | Sin Nombre 1 | 35m, 17 | ||||
5 | Sin Nombre 2 | 30m, 17 | ||||
6 | Sin Nombre 3 | 35m, 17 |
1.11. Sector Local 14 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 19.920896, -99.489070
description
Cobbles, cobbles , cobbles all the way. Mostly easier climbs on small to gigantic cobbles.
approach
The wall just above the parking lot and right of "Sal de mí".
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Pasuzu
First route right of the "chimney". | 5.10a | 20m, 9 | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
2 |
★ Sin Nombre 1
Steep start leads to easier climbing on big cobbles. Use the anchor of Pasuzu or to the right. Not the best quality rock. | 5.10d | 20m, 9 | |||||
3 |
★★ Paxti
The third route from the left. | 5.11b | 24m, 10 | |||||
4 | ★★ Edu | 5.10b | 26m, 9 | |||||
5 |
★★ Españoles Derecha
First bolt left of the huge cobble. | 5.11b | 22m, 9 | |||||
6 |
★★ Berrinchuda
Second bolt on the huge cobble. | 5.10d | 21m, 9 | |||||
7 |
★★ Beluga
Starts just 50cm right of Berrinchuda. | 5.10b | 16m, 8 | |||||
8 |
★★ Nido de Ardillas
Another 50cm right. A bouldery start leads to easier climbing on cobbles and later big pockets. | 5.10d | 27m, 13 | |||||
9 |
★★ Cetáceos
Starts with a small overhang. | 5.10c | 23m, 9 | |||||
10 |
★★ Exorcismo
Starts in the small ‘curve’. Anchor slightly to the right. | 5.10c | 18m, 8 | |||||
11 |
★★ Échame un Polvo
Start has poor feet and is a bit bouldery, nice and easier climbing higher up. | 5.10c | 16m, 7 | |||||
12 |
★★ Eleggua
Just 2 meters right of Échame un Polvo. | 5.10a | 12m, 5 | |||||
13 |
★★ Olodumare
Starts with the huge jug on the even bigger cobble low down. | 5.10a | 12m, 5 | |||||
14 |
★★ Babalu Ave
On the far right of the sector. After the water runnel and before the big tree. | 5.10a | 12m, 5 |
1.12. Santería 5 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 19.920799, -99.488496
description
A handful of easier and long routes that see little traffic.
approach
Hike up from Sector Local to the right for 2 minutes.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Orishas
The first route you will see. Straight up and then left following the arrete. Has a second pitch of unknown length and difficulty. | 5.10b | 34m, 2, 16 | |||
2 | Yoruba | 5.10b | 22m, 11 | |||
3 | Babalan | 5.10a | 30m, 13 | |||
4 |
Yemaya
Starts right of the crack / flake. | 5.10c | 30m, 11 | |||
5 | Oshún | 5.10b | 27m, 13 |
1.13. Sal de mí 12 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 19.921020, -99.489291
description
A popular sector with many quality climbs at a range of difficulty levels.
approach
Just above the parking spot, to the left.
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ Unknown
Entry-level route on the left side of the corner. | 5.7 | 11m, 5 | |||||
2 |
★★ Santería
Climbs up the corner of the face. | 5.11c | 15m, 6 | |||||
3 |
★★ El Nicho
A balancey slab to a long v4. | 5.12a | 17m, 6 | |||||
4 |
★★ La Gallina Negra
A balancey slab into a beautiful steep wave like feature. | 5.12b | 22m, 7 | |||||
5 | ★★ La Sombra | 5.12b | 24m, 10 | |||||
6 | ★★ Estrella de Pétalos | 5.11c | 21m, 9 | |||||
7 |
★★★ Sal de mí
Face climbing on cool pebbles. | 5.10d | 20m, 8 | |||||
8 |
★★ Papá Changoo / La Chimenea
The obvious chimney with anchors up on the right. | 5.8 | 20m, 8 | |||||
9 |
★★ Huevos con Leche
First route right of the chimney. | 5.11b | 18m, 7 | |||||
10 |
★★ El Escupe Vacas
This route is named "the cow spits", this is because the entry is hard and beginner will have a hard time passing it | 5.8 | 25m, 8 | |||||
11 |
★★ Visión de Cacahuate
Nice crimpy, tension bouldercito to start. Just around the corner from El Escupe Vacas. | 5.11c | 25m, 10 | |||||
12 |
★★ Mah cualli tonalli (hola en Nahuatl)
A la derecha de la Vision del cacahuate. Se recomienda pre-proteger la primera placa. Cuidado, se rompen algunos agares. FA: Fabs Set: Luisito | 5.11a | 15m, 11 |
1.14. El Pilar 4 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 19.921019, -99.489599
description
En el estacionamiento, de cara a los escalones, hay una pared, y a la izquierda (viendo hacia dicha pared) de esta esta el pilar, que es lo que su nombre sugiere.
At the parking lot, the steps face a big wall, at the left (facing said wall) of which is El Pilar (the pillar), which is what its name suggests.
approach
Just in front of "Sal de mí".
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★ Pituca | 5.9 | 8m, 3 | |||
2 | ★★ Petaca | 5.9 | 8m, 3 | |||
3 | ★ Tin-Tán | 5.9 | 10m, 5 | |||
4 | ★★ Niño Chillón | 5.8 | 7m, 4 |
1.15. El Poste 6 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 19.921400, -99.489194
description
Great Jilo rock. Easy climbs in a hard belay setting.
approach
Hike left around the corner from "Sal de mí" and take the trail up. You will see the free standing block on your left.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Papas Fritas
Leftmost bolted climb in El Poste. | 5.9 | 27m, 10 | |||
2 |
★ Ronitas
Middle bolted climb in El Poste. | 5.10a | 10m, 5 | |||
3 |
★★ A Prueba de Tontos
Rightmost bolted climb in El Poste. | 5.8 | 10m, 5 | |||
4 |
★★★ El Mazapán
Set: Carlos Ariza | 5.9 | 4 | |||
5 |
El mazapán picudo
Comparte reunión con El mazapán regalado FA: Alex Osorio | 5.11+ | 4 | |||
6 |
★★★ El mazapán regalado
Vía corta que pareciera más fácil de lo que se ve. Fricción para bajar de yoyo. FA: Alex Osorio | 5.11- | 3 |
1.16. Pepe el Toro 5 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 19.921950, -99.489371
description
A nice overhanging wall with little traffic and shade.
approach
From the parking pass the sector Sal de mí and follow the trail that heads out left above the restrooms (not hiking up) until you see the nice overhanging wall in front of you.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Tan grandote y tan chillón | 5.11c | 10m, 5 | |||
2 | Amorcito Corazón | 5.11b | 6m, 2 | |||
3 |
★ Chachita
First route on the right section. | 5.12b | 9m, 5 | |||
4 | ★★★ Tuzita | 5.12d | 9m, 6 | |||
5 | Torito | 5.12c | 10m, 4 |
1.17. Terrorismo 4 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 19.922165, -99.488295
description
The sector with the longest approach in Jilotepec sees very little traffic despite the fact that it is always in the shade.
approach
Follow the trail up and left of "Sal de mí". Hike up steep and keep left along the base of the cliffs. When the path starts decending, follow it along the base to the left. You will see the first routes shortly after that on your right.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Antrax
The leftmost route. | 5.12b | 15m, 5 | |||
2 | Osama | 15m, 6 | ||||
3 | ETA | 21m, 8 | ||||
4 |
Sol Rojo
On the arrete. | 23m, 7 |
1.18. El Olimpo 19 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 19.918798, -99.489234
approach
Walk past the sector las adas and past the sector los encinos, until you are at the highest point of the trail around the huevo, then take the trail that goes right, form there. is less than a 3 minute walk from the top of el huevo to el olimpo
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★★ Ícaro
Slab fácil seguido por crux antes de la panza. Deschapar mientras escalas en el slab para evitar fricción en la cuerda. Set: Rodrigo Cosio FA: Santiago Vaca, 10 Jun 2023 | 5.10c | 32m, 15 | |||||
2 |
Artemisa
Set: Rodrigo Cosio, May 2023 | |||||||
3 |
Hera
The route left from Dodonisio Set: Santiago Vaca & Rodrigo Cosio, 20 Mar 2023 FA: Matias Reyna, May 2023 | 5.10a | 27m, 12 | |||||
4 |
★★★ Dodonisio
Long easy climbing from bottom to top. you have the best view of Jilotepec from the anchors Set: Santiago Vaca & Rodrigo Cosio, 8 Mar 2023 | 5.9 | 34m, 13 | |||||
5 |
★ Vacanal
When you get to the first wall of the sector is the route all the way to the right, it follows a big crack, the anchor is on the right side of the crack. Set: Santiago Vaca & Rodrigo Cosio, 8 Mar 2023 | 5.10a | 28m, 15 | |||||
6 |
Vakístocles
Starts on Vacanal, when you get to the middle of the route you climb to the wall on the right hand side Set: Rodrigo Cosio, May 2023 FA: Santiago Vaca, 23 Jul 2023 | 5.10a | 28m | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
7 |
★★★ Persefone
First Half is vertical and easy, second part gets pumpy on big holds on overhang rock Set: Santiago Vaca & Rodrigo Cosio, 20 Mar 2023 FA: Santiago Vaca, 23 Mar 2023 | 5.12b | 23m, 11 | |||||
8 |
La furia de Gea
The First route on the wall from left to right. It shares the first 6 bolts with "El trono de Urano" and first 4 bolts with "La chanclita de Hercules". Of the 2 long routes is the one on the left. Set: Bruno Garcia, 22 Feb 2023 FA: Bruno Garcia, Mar 2023 | 5.13b | 43m | |||||
9 |
El trono de Urano
It shares the first 6 bolts with "La furia de Gea" and the first 4 bolts with "La chanclita de Hercules". Of the 2 long routes in the overhang is the one on the right. Set: Bruno Garcia, 20 Feb 2023 FA: Bruno Garcia, 3 Mar 2023 | 5.12d | 43m | |||||
10 |
La chanclita de hercules
It shares the first 4 bolts with "La furia de Gea" and "El trono de Urano" then it climbs right to the crack. Set: Bruno Garcia, 4 Mar 2023 | 5.11d | 28m | |||||
11 |
★★★ Ítaca
The route on the right hand side of La chanclita de Hercules Set: Santiago Vaca, 12 Mar 2023 | 5.12a | 24m, 12 | |||||
12 |
★★★ Martillo de Hefesto
the route on the right hand side of Ítaca Set: Daniel Tapia, 12 Mar 2023 FA: Santiago Vaca, 23 Jul 2023 | 5.12a/b | 28m | |||||
13 |
★★★ Poseidón ahogado
The route starts on the left hand side of the tree Set: Bruno Garcia, 12 Mar 2023 | 5.11d | 30m | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
14 |
El perro de Hades
The route starts on the right hand side of the tree Set: Bruno Garcia, 25 Feb 2023 | 5.11c | 29m, 14 | |||||
15 |
★★★ Cariátide
Set: Santiago Vaca, 24 May 2023 FA: Santiago Vaca, 10 Jun 2023 | 5.11d | 28m, 12 | |||||
16 |
★ Queso Feta
Set: Santiago Vaca, 3 Jun 2023 FA: Fernando de Yolanda, 23 Mar | 5.10d | 27m, 12 | |||||
17 |
★★★ Aquiles Voy
It follows the easiest part of the wall. Sigue la línea evidente por el canalón, es la parte más a favor de esa sección de la pared. Set: Santiago Vaca & Rodrigo Cosio, May 2023 FA: Matias Reyna, 6 Jun 2023 | 5.10a | 26m, 12 | |||||
18 |
Panta Rhei
Set: Santiago Vaca & Rodrigo Cosio FA: Santiago Vaca, 23 Sep 2023 | 5.11a | 27m, 13 | |||||
19 |
★★★ Ipse
The last route on the right hand side of the crag. FA: Rodrigo Ramos Set: Santiago Vaca & Rodrigo Cosio, Jun 2023 | 5.11a | 27m, 13 |