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Boljske grede

  • Grade context: UIAA
6
UIAA

Description

Boljske Grede belongs to the southernmost part of Mt Durmitor massif and is the largest rock on this mountain. Boljske Grede Peak is rather long mountain ridge starting from the vast Dobri do and continuing to the south, gradually losing its height. The northern areas of the ridge are the highest. The highest point, the Bolj Peak, at an altitude of 2066 masl is situated here. At the point where Dobri do is the lowest and where the valley of the Komarnica River starts, an imposing craggy barrier starts towering above the Komarnica River all the way to its end. The valley of the Komarnica River is the southernmost valley of Mt Durmitor massif situated near the small town of Šavnik. The rock faces are 500 to 700 metres high and those stretch in the length of almost 3.5 kms! Best time for climbing is from late spring to early autumn (September/October). In recent years, the rocks of Boljske Grede Peak have attracted two groups of foreign climbers from Southern Tyrol (Italy) and Carnizia (Austria) who have climbed two first ascents. The rock is of a solid quality and offers immense potentials for climbing first ascents.

Valley of the Komarnica River provides additional opportunities for outdoor activities. In the valley, there is a large number of smaller and larger boulders, therefore in the moments of break you can go bouldering as well. At the beginning of the valley of the Komarnica River there is a famous Nevidio Canyon, one of the rather small, but surely, one among the most beautiful canyons in terms of beauty and enjoyment it offers. With the adequate equipment the canyon can be passed along in few hours. Do not enter it without the diving suits and be careful, because once you enter it there is no way back.

How to Get There.

The River Komarnica Valley is about 110 kms far from Podgorica, over Nikšić to Šavnik. From this small town, further few kilometers towards Žabljak, where after few kilometers one should turn to the Komarnica village. Along the valley, through the village, several kilometers further to the end of the gravel road. From there, through the forest along the path for about 1.5 hrs to Poljana below the highest section of the rock. Camping is possible in the valley.

Accommodation.

Bring your tents along. If you want a complete isolation, then the place for you is a large meadow below the highest section of the rock. If you want to socialise a little with the local people, you can also pitch your tents by the last house in the valley, at a very pleasant family - the Đurđić, who have already hosted foreign climbers. Near the house of the Đurđić family, there is a spring with drinkable water.

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Routes

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Grade Route

Access

Moving along the base of the rock from the direction of the village there is a clear shell that is broadly offset by a rock and reaches its polovine.Ulaz the point that is at the base of the shell from the direction of the village.

Description

The steep groove to the first plateau between the shell and rock. Separated from the shell and placed over the cracks (V) on the steep high shelf of grass. Rack up under a rock to very pronounced cracks that developed into a fireplace. Through fireplace (IV), so when you finish window obstruct left 10m m over the shelf and proceed by the fireplace (IV), which is now very tight and not recommended tall people. Get out on the next shelf. Continue on through the jump (IV) to a small vwoma deep cave that is in the amount of huge gullies that ends ceiling. Left of the cave very first iztaženim ridge (V, k, k, k) by the end of the vertical groove (V + k, k) covered with grass and width 10-15 cm on the shelf above mentioned ceiling. Over exposed cracks (vi, k, k) on the left above and over the smooth plate (IV +) to the edge of the rock

Descend

Rappel range direction, rappel is possible by using a cable because it allows the schedule policy.

Remark

The rock left about 10 wedges, repeaters recommend several smaller buds.

FA: Aleksa Sradonova & Dragan Milenkovic, 2004

FA: Radoslav Milojević & Dušan Radunković

FA: Radoslav Milojević & Anđelko Ćirković

Access

For the landmark should be used very distinctive poured that seen from the village, especially in the valley of the river Komarnica from where ends the possibility of further progress by car through the valley.

Description directions

Admission is 150 m in the direction of the village of very pronounced gullies that separates Silja panels EMBROIDERY, where the rocks down into the deepest woods. Over large boulders after 50 meters out in front of a huge stone monolithic block height of 70 m and length of 150 m.Njega bypass from the left side through the crack (IV) and right up through overgrown groove. Are continuously somewhat impedes the left and up the border following the reef, which is visible on the left side. After 7 length (III, IV details) to the point where a ridge in the direction of 2 huge pine on top direction separates the left. On the right is seen a very strong groove that ends before Samin peak ridge. By a very strong ridge (III +) with rastežaj and reach the huge pines and after half rastežaja up rounding the left reef Cup. Very conspicuous covered gully (III, II), which is exposed after two rastežaja reaches the summit ridge. The first climbers is takes about 4 hours to climb.

Descend

At the top, to the left around a very large gullies to its leftmost edge, over steep scree keep the right edge of which no assurance can reach the first vertical jump notches. Rappel to the bottom of exactly 50m, so that LJE notches to the second jump. Again rappel which is exactly 50 yards to the third jump, also 50 meters to the bottom poured another short jump and down the scree to the forest and the shutter.

FA: Aleksa Srdanov & Dragan Milenkovic, 2004

Access

From Podgorica to Niksic until Savik small town which is located south of the Durmitor massif. From Savnik go through to Zabljak after about 2 km at the sign "Canyon Komarnica" turn on a side road. Follow a narrow path to the crossroads and turn left. At the next turn, turn right and follow the path all the way to the end.

Access to the wall

Follow well-marked trail to the valley until you see the wall where the grass whispers commit direction (see figure). You need to cross the river before walking trail begins to climb the small hill on the left.

Descent

Rappel series route. There is always a bolt at anchorages or tree that you can use. See drawing for details.

Equipment

The direction is almost pure with a Bolt on most anchorages. If there is no bolt can easily improve anchorage using buddies or chokes. We used two sets of buddies to a size 4, and one lad size 4.5 slightly C3, chokes and some wedges. Two cords of 60m.

Set by Stefan Lieb, Gregor Pribernig, Jo Friedl & Marcus Groinig, 2008

Information needed

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Activity

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