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Created about a year ago

Seasonality

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Summary

A beautiful secluded canyon, tucked away from the traffic and tourist that make Todra Canyon such a busy place.

Description

About 2km long and up to 6 six pitches high. The Rock quality ranges from very bad to very good. A great place for a few days of camping and trad climbing. For experienced trad climbers in limestone only.

  • Jawad (Whatsapp: +212630699258) from the Auberge Traditional will be happy to host you and organise the approach to Taraxa. He can help you finding transport, donkeys and buying supplies.
  • Buy your supplies in Tamtetoucht, to support the locals.
  • Be friendly to the nomads you meet along the way, accept an offer for tea and bring small gifts like food.
  • Keep the spring and camp clean! Soap and detergents in the water hurt the animals. Keep your things in the tent during the day so that nomads can bring their animals to drink at the spring undisturbed.
  • Don’t put bolts in existing lines and don’t cross existing climbs.
  • Make sure to leave Jawad a topo of your first ascent.

Access issues

make sure to contact Jawad before heading to the canyon. It's good if somebody from Tamtettouchte knows you are there.

Approach

At the dam's construction site, about two km south of Tamtettouchte, follow the wadi that leads to Taraxa. The canyon is about 2h walking time from the road.

Where to stay

You will need to bring your own tent. Jawad can rent you one. Do not stay immediately near the well, as it will disturb the nomads.

Ethic

There's enough rock for everybody and all styles. In other words: do what you want, but don't put bolts in existing trad lines.

History

History timeline chart

The climbing potential was discovered by Jawad, the owner of L'Auberge Traditionel of the nearby village Tamtattouchte. 2017: The first three lines are put up by Jonathan Isbecque and Rose Gallant. 2018: The next two lines are first ascended by Alfonso Usobiaga, Abdul Fadili and Luca De Giorgi 2019: 14 more lines are opened by Alfonso Usobiaga, Luca De Giorgi, Ben O'Neill, Gabriel Rossi, Katrina Robles, Peter Warasin and Armin Schwitzer.

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Routes

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Grade Route

Insane roof cracks...

FA: Alfonso Usobiaga

FA: Gabriel Rossi, Armin Schwitzer & Katrina Robles, Oct 2019

FA: Katrina Robles & Gabriel Rossi, Oct 2019

FA: Gabriel Rossi, Armin Schwizter & Katrina Robles, Oct 2019

FA: Katrina Robles & gabriel rossi, Oct 2019

FA: Luca De Giorgi & Ben O'Neill, Oct 2019

FA: Gabriel Rossi & Ben O'Neill, Oct 2019

FA: Armin Schwitzer & Peter Warasin, Oct 2019

FA: Luca De Giorgi & Peter Warasin, Oct 2019

FA: Luca De Giorgi, Alfonso Usobiaga & Abdul Fadili, Dec 2018

FA: Luca De Giorgi, Alfonso Usobiaga & Abdul Fadili, Dec 2018

FA: Peter Warasin, Oct 2019

FA: Luca De Giorgi, Oct 2019

FA: Ben O'Neill, Oct 2019

FA: Armin Schwitzer, Oct 2019

FA: Peter Warasin, Oct 2019

FA: Ben O'Neill, Oct 2019

FA: Jonathan Isbecque & Rose Gallant, May 2017

FA: Jonathan Isbecque & Rose Gallant, May 2017

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Activity

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