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Access issues inherited from Maungarei Springs

Drive through the Stonefields housing estate, park on the road at the pumphouse by the lake. Don't block the pumphouse gate, park further up the road. You are in a residential area, lay off the swearing and other antisocial behaviour.

Approach

Walk down the cliff from the pump house.

Descent notes

Access to the top is possible by walking up the top ledge from the pump house. Beware of knocking loose rock down on climbers below.

History

View historical timeline

One trad route was put up by Stephen McInally in 2009, then nothing much happened until early 2016.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

Up the easy groove and then left at the top across to the anchors.

Protection is a bit poor, might end up being bolted.

FA: Christian Gamst, 26 Mar

Up blocks and ledges to gain the small roof block, then jam straight up the crack.

FA: Owen Lee & Gregor Kolbe, Feb 2016

Up the wide groove to reach the slopery crack.

FA: Petrouchka Steiner-Greirson & Owen Lee, May 2016

Up the groove, finish with a more difficult escape right past one bolt to the anchor of Dochawiyogicojalime.

Previously bolted by unknown, first ascent by unknown?

Up the groove, finish easily by escaping left past the small tree to the anchors of Shooting in the Dark.

Don't know if this has previously been climbed?

FA: Christian Gamst, 18 Mar

Climb the prominent arete with some technical moves as you go. Don't step in from the right above the first bolt for full value. Nice platform for belaying from the top.

FA: Owen Lee, 1 May 2016

Follow the corner and crack immediately left of Shooting in the Dark to shared anchors.

FA: Mario Hernandez, 20 Jan

Climb up to the chossy ledge from the right. Follow the right facing crack behind the block then climb the face to the anchor.

FA: Owen Lee & Petrouchka Steiner-Grierson, 13 Apr

Climb the blocky stairs with clips heading right, watch for loose rocks as you go. Bolts then traverse across left and up to the DBC at the top. Belayer can dodge rocks under the arete or to the right of the climb.

Established as a Dry Tooling climb for mixed climbing (ice+rock) and rated M5 (approximately 5.9 / 16)

Set by Owen Lee, May 2016

FA: Owen Lee, May 2016

Solo up the easy ledges to the first bolt then stay on the face with the handy crack on your left.

Find the secret blast hole for an easy push to the finish.

Set by Petrouch Steiner-Grierson & Owen Lee, Feb 2016

FA: Petrouch Steiner-Grierson & Owen Lee, Feb 2016

Start below as for Sylvie's Blast Hole, then traverse diagonally up to the anchors of A Carp Died for this.

Loose blocks have been removed, but there may still be a few more until it sees more traffic.

FA: Lizzie Gamst, 11 Mar

To the right of A Carp Died for This Climb, follow the line of weakness to the anchors.

FA: Lizzie Gamst, 18 Mar

Climb the centre of the slab following the crack and bolts, lots of micro ledges for fingers and toes. Getting off it is challenging and then some fun slab climbing to finish with some hidden jugs if you can find them.

Set by Joshua Thoresen & Petrouchka Steiner-Grierson, Feb 2016

FA: Joshua Thoresen & Petrouchka Steiner-Grierson, Feb 2016

Climb the face to the bivy ledge then continue up the blocky buttress.

FA: Petrouchka Steiner-Grierson & Owen Lee, Feb 2016

Climb the large face to the left of The South Face, tricky start leads onto easy climbing up the ledges.

Fun and the start is easier than it looks once you find the holds.

Set by Bryce Martin

FA: Bryce Martin, 17 Jun 2016

Harder than it looks. Easily up then tricky moves on the arete to reach the break. Move right, then invest a bit more effort to finish.

FA: Owen Lee, Pertrouchka Steiner-Grierson & Petrouchka Steiner-Grierson, Feb 2016

Start on the left and move onto the face, some small holds are available and watch for loose rocks. Crux move is before the final bolt, look for the secret undercling to finish.

Originally set up as a mixed climb and graded M6.

Set by Roman Ammann

FA: Roman Ammann, Jul 2016

Clip the first bolt from the ground then crank your way up on the left until you can clip the second and reach a handy pocket. Move rightish and up the above the thin crack to an easing finish.

Established as a dry tool route at grade M5.

FA: Roman Ammann, Jul 2016

Up the buttress to the chain then negotiate the roof and finish up the slab.

FA: Owen Lee & Petrouchka Steiner-Grierson, Feb 2016

The curving crack and slab. Protection may be tricky around the middle.

FA: Stephen McInally, 2009

The same route as Scrack, accidentally retrobolted, but fortunately cleaned, then graded 21, WTF?

FA: Owen Lee & Petrouchka Steiner-Grierson, Feb 2016

Bare walls make bridging a necessity without mixed tools. Things get easier the higher you go, clip the 3rd bolt with your gate facing outwards. The final face proves tricky, but you can walk off the top to enjoy the strange landscape up above.

Established as a dry tool route at grade M4

Set by Owen Lee

FA: Owen Lee, May 2016

Starts on the face to the right of the waterfall (the slabby jutting out pieces where birds hang around, look for the guano), traverse left under the waterfall and then steel yourself for the big haul up and over!

Top half is a breeze and fun to climb up where the water flows after heavy rain.

Set by Roman Ammann, Jul 2016

FA: Roman Ammann, Jul 2016

Activity

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