Fantasy Factory Mostly Trad climbing55 routes in crag
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The cliff is on the west side of the spur which runs down to Diamond Harbour from Herbert Peak. The Fantasy Factory is the larger, more obvious cliff, just below the top of the spur, overlooking Charteris Bay. It is sheltered from easterly winds. Access is from Charteris Bay, along Bayview Road (turn R off the main road before the yacht club). Drive along Bayview Road for approx 1.5 kilometres and turn right up Doris Faigan Lane. At the top of the Lane go over the cattlestop and up past the house to park under the trees near the water tanks. If a car isn't available, catch the ferry to Diamond Harbour. Go through the gate and walk up the spur for several hundred metres until opposite the top of the cliff, sidling above a patch of gorse to pick up a track marked with red and faded pink tape which descends to the base of the cliff.
Permission must be granted from two sources!
The owner of the land the crag is on - Zac Kyle. Please text 027 604 1485, and only proceed once you have a reply.
The owner of the land you cross between Doris Faigan Lanen, and the crag - Peter Nel. Text 021 223 4478.
Please keep the traffic light!!! One car with 4 people is a lot less intrusive than 4 cars with 4 people. (Pool your cars at Diamond Harbour). Park Considerately! Please leave enough room for a tractor to go past into the neighbouring paddock, and do not attempt to drive beyond the water tanks.
No access during September, as it is lambing season.
Walk through from the public road, don't drive.
The usual rules should be observed - leave gates as you found them, no fires or sources of ignition and leave your dogs at home!
As can be seen from the names of these crags and some of their climbs, there was a post-hippy boom going on in Christchurch at this time. The cliff was discovered in 1975 by Tim Wethey and Mike Franklin. Wethey produced the excellent *Shortcut To Mushrooms (18), and *Mindbender (20), one of the hardest Peninsula climbs at the time. Mike Franklin contributed *Bitterfingers (16). In 1979-80, John Howard contributed the hardest route on the cliff at the time, *Birdbrain (22). In the late 90s there was a resurgence of new sport & trad routes by Richard Kimberley, Tony Burnell & Alan Hill.
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