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Summary

The cliff is on the west side of the spur which runs down to Diamond Harbour from Herbert Peak. The Fantasy Factory is the larger, more obvious cliff, just below the top of the spur, overlooking Charteris Bay. It is sheltered from easterly winds. Access is from Charteris Bay, along Bayview Road (turn R off the main road before the yacht club). Drive along Bayview Road for approx 1.5 kilometres and turn right up Doris Faigan Lane. At the top of the Lane go over the cattlestop and up past the house to park under the trees near the water tanks. If a car isn't available, catch the ferry to Diamond Harbour. Go through the gate and walk up the spur for several hundred metres until opposite the top of the cliff, sidling above a patch of gorse to pick up a track marked with red and faded pink tape which descends to the base of the cliff.

Access issues

Permission must be granted from two sources!

  1. The owner of the land the crag is on - Zac Kyle. Please text 027 604 1485, and only proceed once you have a reply.

  2. The owner of the land you cross between Doris Faigan Lanen, and the crag - Peter Nel. Text 021 223 4478.

Please keep the traffic light!!! One car with 4 people is a lot less intrusive than 4 cars with 4 people. (Pool your cars at Diamond Harbour). Park Considerately! Please leave enough room for a tractor to go past into the neighbouring paddock, and do not attempt to drive beyond the water tanks.

No access during September, as it is lambing season.

Walk through from the public road, don't drive.

The usual rules should be observed - leave gates as you found them, no fires or sources of ignition and leave your dogs at home!

Approach

Descent is possible at either end of the cliff, or via a 30 metre abseil from the bolts above Not Crack But Still Ecstasy. There is a clip line which leads to abseil anchors above Xena - Warrior Princess. Worth taking an extra rope and setting up an abseil station for the day.

History

View historical timeline

As can be seen from the names of these crags and some of their climbs, there was a post-hippy boom going on in Christchurch at this time. The cliff was discovered in 1975 by Tim Wethey and Mike Franklin. Wethey produced the excellent *Shortcut To Mushrooms (18), and *Mindbender (20), one of the hardest Peninsula climbs at the time. Mike Franklin contributed *Bitterfingers (16). In 1979-80, John Howard contributed the hardest route on the cliff at the time, *Birdbrain (22). In the late 90s there was a resurgence of new sport & trad routes by Richard Kimberley, Tony Burnell & Alan Hill.

Routes

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Grade Route

On the upper part of the cliff at the left-hand side are three short climbs that all feature very loose blocks, and have little to recommend them...

Climb up the wall for 5m, or start in a loose corner to the right and reach across left to place gear; then move across, taking care to avoid pulling the wobbly blocks off. Step up and jam in the corner. Avoid the blocks at the top by moving left, and anchor at a boulder about five metres back.

The twin cracks in a corner. Up an easy corner to the bulge (crux) and loose blocks, then up the cracks.

Just right of Double Vision. Up over very loose flakes and blocks, then up a slab on to a ledge and up the corner-crack above

FA: Lindsay May, 1977

The first route that goes the full height of the crag. Start on slab left of "Faigan", climb leftwards to first bolt. Crux on layaways and small holds after third bolt. Wires and small cams for top trad section, through the split prow. Double bolt belay anchor

The first gully, from the left that goes the full height of the crag. Up grooves and over ledges for about 20m. Then step left and climb the crack over a large block (crux, easy but commiting), and finish up the corner. You can use Geoid anchor.

FA: Lindsay Main, 1977

Climb Scabiosa to the roof and pass this on the right with a short committing wall to gain the exit crack.

FA: Lindsay Main, 2014

The prominent corner-gully. The first few metres is the hardest, with typical Fantasy side-pulls and down-pressure moves. Climb the gully, traversing right below the big roof. Continue up cracks beside the arête to exit in the right-angle corner.

FA: Tim Wethey, 1975

Start in the Faigan gully, go immediately rightwards to gain the face above the balcony,climb the wall when the angle eases past the 4th bolt, veer left onto the lefthand crack, then up the corner using the rap station just rightwards of the top of the corner. Eats smaller trad gear. Start in the Faigan gully, go immediately rightwards to gain the face above the balcony,climb the wall when the angle eases past the 4th bolt, veer left onto the lefthand crack, then up the corner using the rap station just rightwards of the top of the corner. Eats smaller trad gear. Lots of protections after 3rd bolt.

FA: Dave Fearnley, 1979

Pro can be used at bottom to protect between bolts.

Gear required between first and second bolt

Gear required after 4th bolt.

Direct version goes at grade 20.

FA: Lindsay may, 1978

Activity

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