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Lovers Leap Rock climbing 44 routes in area

44
AU
1416182022242628

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Summary

Columnar basalt climbing in a stunning setting.

Description

Double ropes useful as guides do not include chain approach in route length. Most routes have 4 m of choss at the base, and chains or close bolts to bypass this. Mostly shady, and windy in a southerly. However in summer the sun hits the wall from about 1pm for a few hours and it can get hot if a northerly is blowing.

Access issues

Worthwhile looking at cliff from DOC lookout first. Follow signposted track to Lovers Leap from car park.

Approach

The descent starts 100m before look out. Cross the fence at small stile and head down steep grassy gully before sidling around ridge to base of crag at its right end.

Where to stay

Portobello. Camping not permitted in car park

Ethic

Trad and bolts.

Plan your Trip

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Guidebooks

Areas

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Name
Style
Routes
Ticks
Height
Grades
1
Platform face cliff
 Trad climbing and  Sport climbing
14
3

Routes

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Grade Route
2
15 ★★ Access Gully Trad 16m
3
23 ★ Cardboard Chaos Unknown 16m
4
22 ★ Just the Tick-It Unknown 16m
5
18 ★★ Crying Time Again Trad 23m

Warning Rock: Loose block at the top of twin cracks

6
19 ★★ Triple Treat Trad 25m
7
22 ★★★ Side Effect Mixed trad 24m, 5

A bridging groove with cams and wires, leads past 4 bolts to a small roof. A bulge with a final bolt leads to an easier, but run-ou,t finish.

8
20 ★★ Don't Cry For Me Argentina Trad 24m
9
21 Slap Stick Unknown 17m
10
20 ★ Al's Jam Crack Unknown 24m
11
18 ★ The Affliction Trad 20m
12
20 ★ The Cure Unknown 20m
13
19 ★★ Walk Of Shame Trad 14m
14
19 ★ Stereo Cameo Trad 14m

Stemming box (fingers and hands) directly above the first "batman" chain

15
20 ★ Brave Dash Unknown 16m
16
28 ★★★ Maximum Pseudo Likelihood Unknown 20m
17
27 ★★ Orange Peel Unknown 25m
18
23 ★★ Seawitch Unknown 25m
19
27 ★★★ Demilitarised Zone Unknown 23m
20
25 ★★ Balls Of String Unknown 40m
21
24 ★★ Welcome To Failure Unknown 30m
22
22 ★★★ Pink Cadillac Unknown 28m
23
22 ★★ It Always Ends In Tears Unknown 26m
24
25 ★★★ Parallel Universe Mixed trad 31m, 10
25
23 ★★ Bird Dropping Sport 20m, 8

FA: Steve Carr

26
23 ★★ VW - Long And Winding Road Mixed trad 42m, 2, 7

Used to be two pitches of grade 20 called The Long and Winding Road. A big pillar fell off the first pitch, which is now called VW and is an excellent grade 23 sport climb up a v corner. Seven bolts. The second pitch is still grade 20 and takes plenty of gear.

27
24 ★ Wicked Corner Mixed trad 28m, 2, 4

Belay from the Bird Dropping/ VW anchor.

Pitch 1: grade 21, 1 bolt. Step left past the bolt, then back right to a ledge. Tenuous bridging to the chains. Don't fall onto the ledge!

Pitch 2: grade 24, 3 bolts. Negotiate the roof to the arete.

28
24 ★★ Unrequited Unknown 41m
29
23 ★★ Via Magma Unknown 40m
30
23 ★★ Killer Wail Unknown 26m
31
22 ★★ Date With Destiny Unknown 31m

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23 ★★ VW - Long And Winding Road
25 ★★★ Parallel Universe
28 ★★★ Maximum Pseudo Likelihood

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Jack Mullen on ★★ Don't Cry For Me Argentina 20 - Snapseed.JPG

Wed 19 Apr
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