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Summary

Columnar basalt climbing in a stunning setting.

Description

Double ropes useful as guides do not include chain approach in route length. Most routes have 4 m of choss at the base, and chains or close bolts to bypass this. Mostly shady, and windy in a southerly. However in summer the sun hits the wall from about 1pm for a few hours and it can get hot if a northerly is blowing.

Access issues

Worthwhile looking at cliff from DOC lookout first. Follow signposted track to Lovers Leap from car park.

Approach

The descent starts 100m before look out. Cross the fence at small stile and head down steep grassy gully before sidling around ridge to base of crag at its right end.

Where to stay

Portobello. Camping not permitted in car park

Ethic

Trad and bolts.

Routes

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Grade Route

A bridging groove with cams and wires, leads past 4 bolts to a small roof. A bulge with a final bolt leads to an easier, but run-ou,t finish.

Stemming box (fingers and hands) directly above the first "batman" chain

Activity

Check out what is happening in Lovers Leap.