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Description

A great area for sport climbers climbers for beginners to intermediate climbing. Helmets are highly recommended.

Approach

When arriving into Long Beach, continue straight on Mihiwaka Rd, untill you reach the t-intersection of Beach Rd, Take a left and follow Beach Rd until you arrive at a car park. From here take the walking track to the beach, head North along the beach, the first rocky out crop is called "Pinnacle" Continue north for another 400m and you will arrive at the North Buttress.

History

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This Area has been bouldered a lot in the past, with solo's occurring on the North Buttress. Steve Carr provided the original description and topos for Dunedin Rock at the North Buttress.

First Accents date back to 1980, with bolting occurring from 2009 - 2010. A huge thanks to all who established the routes and bolted them. Steve Carr, Calum Hudson, Dave Ireland, Emily Harding, Ethan Dale, Nathan Campbell and Shane Green.

Routes

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Grade Route

Head up to the horizontal cracks through the scoop and out right to the anchors. Still a bit sandy at the very top.

FFA: Steve Carr, 1980

Easy climbing to the blocky ledge to clip the 1st bolt. Balance to the 2nd and face climb to the anchors. Steve Carr, 1980. Dave Ireland and Calum Hudson, 2010....so named because it was heavy rain mixed with HAIL (Precipitation) when Dave was bolting it....and it is on the precipice of this face. Information off climbnz.org.nz

FFA: Steve Carr, 1980

Starts on Beewall and finishes up the face just right of precipitation. Don't get sucked over to precipitation because there is a cool sidepull to get up on the face.

Easy climbing through blocks to clip the 1st bolt. Grab the jugs and commit to leaning out and around to get to the 2nd bolt. Search out some more big jugness to finish it off. Information off climbnz.org.nz

FA: Emily Harding, 2010

Safe climbing through blocks to clip the 1st bolt. If you want to make it tricky head up to the bolt straight under the overhang. Information off climbnz.org.nz

FFA: Emily Harding, 2010

Up the black and blue wall with lot's of potential gear. Head left to anchors

Head up towards Cavernous crack and finish out left to anchors Information off climbnz.org.nz

Information off climbnz.org.nz

FA: Calum Hudson, 2010

Activity

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