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Routes

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Grade Route

The best, longest and most varied outing at this crag. A slabby start traverses right past a plethora of bolts (many can be skipped). Easy to the bridging corner, curve left through a fiery crux and cool off for the finish

FA: Steve Carr, 2012

Corner behind the big detached boulder.

FA: Michell Jospe & Steve Carr, 2013

The L slanting groove has been retro bolted. This route heads right after the 3rd bolt of WYGTH, across the face to a golden left facing corner. Up this, trending back left on jugs to the anchors as for WYGTH. Not many grade 17 routes around of this length and quality of rock architecture. Source: http://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/dunedin/otago-peninsula/mapoutahi/main-eldorado-walls/golden-showers

FA: Luke Visser, Calum Hudson & Steve Carr, Jan 2012

The original route, now retro bolted. Start up groove and head right as for GS, but continue right at corner and climb arête to same anchors as GW2.

The crimpy and powerful face behind the detached boulder. Indulge in gastons and sidepulls to an easy finish

FA: Jonathon Clearwater, 2004

Holds quite a lot of interesting climbing. Up the corner from the pillar, then L onto the face past the third bolt...Control 'has been recently retrobolted. The belay has been relocated to the very top of the wall above three newly positioned bolts. A further bolt has been added on the left hand side of the starting pillar. Source: http://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/dunedin/otago-peninsula/mapoutahi/main-eldorado-walls/control The 4 bolt start up the face seems about grade 25.

FFA: Steve Carr, 1997

From the high point between pinnacle and main wall climb flake trending right into left lending groove. Follow this up and step left onto arête to DBB

Follow right slanting flake into left facing slightly overhanging corner. Originally only 7m and grade 14, it has been bolted to the top of the cliff

FA: S Carr

Starts up left slanting thin crack just where cliff drops lower. Climb into wedged boulders, then over bulge on bolts and up steep arête to same anchors as HHNF. Was originally shorter and grade 15.

FA: S Carr

Just to right of where cliff base drops to ground level, up broken pillar to start

Up steep left facing corner on black rock, then continue up easier corner above. Head right to anchors

Steep start through breccia, and again through second roof. Continue to anchors of WBBB for rope to pull

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