Routes as sport in Kawakawa Bay

Originally climbed through the roof (at grade 22), it's much easier to sneak around to the left, though still no soft touch.

A new route to welcome in the new year and the same old you. Wander around and try to stay out of Alcoholics Anonymous.

Starts with a touch route reading crux, easing up the higher you go. Using the tree to start is aid, but you do you.

Mostly grade 17 climbing with a midway mini crux and a bouldery crux start. If you've got a stick clip, pre-clipping the 2nd bolt is recommended.

Left through thin moves over rails to a ledge, then stay out of the crack at left.

Straight up to the ledge then crimps above.

Reachy and thuggy, solid at the grade, wanders around over bulges with more than one crux. Long or extendable draws advisable. Pull your rope standing a way out from the wall.

Follows the first two bolts of 'The Reach Around', then continues straight up into great features. Solid for the grade (following the theme of the area). Finishes on the higher anchor above D.B.A.P.C.Y.T. Great view.

On the far right side of the crag. Climb up to the first high bolt and continue upwards on good holds. Prepare for a sneaky crux before you finish.

The featured slab/arete with a fun layback finish. A great warm up.

A hard slab start (recommended pre-clipping 1st or 2nd bolt which can be accessed from the left), leads to a cruxy bulge with optional tree aid. Shares some terrain with Man Cub in order to save the big tree at the base and to keep clear of the trad line (The Jungle Book).

Fun slab arete climb. Similar to Rohan's Arete, but easier. Starts right of the arete, by the tree.

A bouldery start leads to an easy slab section up to the mini roof. Has fantastic crux moves on slopey scoops, edges and mini-jug rails. Shorter people, or those pushing their grade may want to climb Welcome to the Jungle first to pre-hang the quickdraws. Named after the baby Riroriro (Grey Warblers) that were seen nesting and taking their first flights.

A bouldery start leads to cruisy moves into a great middle section, with a good rest before the final crux finish. Black hangers.

A cool line with fun moves.

Open project. Let the crag vultures loose! The hard extension to Be Like You. Estimated grade 27/28.

Black hangers. The first line established at Jungle Wall. An instant classic. Follows the groove, right of the overhang.

After gaining the ledge, move carefully up and left on the obvious arête. Hard to read moves lead to a few hidden jugs with a surprisingly easy exit up the final slab headwall to finish.

A wild experience in a small space. Stay out of Robin's hand crack on the left for an honest ascent. A tricky ending with hard to solve clues. Pre-placing the quickdraws is recommended, with a med-long draw on the 3rd.

An adventurous line that snakes around wicked features, with multiple cruxes. Prepare to be hypnotised.

A fantastic line with multiple cruxes and thought-provoking sequences. Shares the first bolt with The Crow King, then heads up and right.

A great line with three unique cruxes in three different styles. Set with creative use of a crowbar due to the hidden hammer incident.

Great climbing with interesting features and some tricky sequences. Finishes on the starting dyno jugs of the extension 'Bagheera'.

"We're going to need a bigger star system". Continues up from the Baloo anchor. All beta so far involves an all points off dyno! A hard V2 (6A) crux guards the top. Feels hard for the grade until you send, then it's easy - c'est la vie (such is life).

Hope you like mantles.

A fun bouldery start then consistent grade 17 moves up to the 'tree house' ending.

Short but savage. A chill start up the layback finger crack leads to triple, consecutive cruxes (V2-V4-V3) / (6A/6B+/6A+). Some serious skills are needed to slay the Congo King.

Closed project, please stay off. The left side of the face/slab arete. Balancey and beautiful.

Undercut start through blocks onto arete

Head up the slab into the slight dihedral corner, escaping right to a flat crimp. Delicately work your way up technical moves upwards to the large breaks and the anchor.

On the arete right of flake 7

Up the slabbly start to the overlap, then a crux and mantle that make this a hard onsight. It's far from over after that...

Directly up the striking arête in front of where the path from the camp meets the base of the wall. After the start, most of the climbing is to the right of the bolts, with many no-hands rests.

The hard thin crack and face to the right of Rohan’s Arete, sharing its anchor.

Climbs the slightly overhanging face, left of Biggie Smalls. Consistant and tecky moves with a cool crux and mantle. Great photo spot out right.

coming soon - a hard right hand exit (sans mantle) *closed project

Scramble up right to pre clip the 1st bolt if you don't have a stick clip. Starts in the corner, then head up the slab (avoiding the crack), moving right at the tree, then tackle the improbable-looking upper slab. Great photo spot out right on a bushy ledge above 'The Zoolander Center'.

Pitch 1: (19) Up the face and over boulders to a crux finger crack. Use the maillon of the anchor on the tree.

Pitch 2: (16) Traverse to the right to the belay station after climbing up the face. DBB.

Pitch 3: (19) Start in the bottomless chimney, traverse up and right and exit through the overhang, then leftward on a slab and face. DBB.

Pitch 4: (19) Straight up the face to the very top. 15 bolts. DBB.

Starts at the top of pitch one of Ventura Highway.

Pitch 1: (21) Wandering route, but generally trends left up the face. DBB.

Pitch 2: (22) Initially head out right and weave back left between the two shrubs. Continue straight up the exposed headwall to the anchor. DBB.

Trend rightwards at first until you get into a small groove. Continue upwards cutting left underneath the big block. Follow just right of the small arete to the belay.

Take a 70m rope and plenty of extendable draws. Pitch 2 is still a work in progress.

Climb the face just right of Pain Au Chocolat.

Up the left hand side of the arete, transitioning onto a slab to the top.

Up the blunt arete of the right of the boulder.

Go up the main just left of the main slab of Secret Garden

Left most line of bolts on the main wall. Low angle slab, start up big holds and trending slightly left following the bolts, small traverse left then back right and up to the anchors on the face. DBR anchor.

Goes directly up the wall, parallel to Miromiro, then trends slightly left to a separate anchor on the shorter section of the wall. Crux bulge has two options: direct (16) or out left to the original boulder problem (17).

Climb up the slab in the middle of the wall using the left line of bolts after bolt 3. Big ledges and smoother sections as you go straight up, then head right at the top to the anchor.

"one of the best 15's in the North Island" - Bryce Martin.

Start as for ‘Miromiro’ for the 1st 3 bolts then trends slightly right. The original 19 direct exit was rebolted to the right to keep the climb as a sustained 15 and to give the original line to the left (Miromiro), more space. A separate anchor was installed (single ring w/ chain).

Runs up the central smooth part of the main wall, between Miromiro and Rise of the Sloths, follow the black bolt hangers. Finishes up the vertical groove with a technical second crux to keep you entertained. Originally graded as a hard 20, potentially a grade harder.

An easier variation start is possible by laybacking the crack out left to avoid all the slab crux moves. The top crux in the groove is grade 18 if you want to log this variation.

Line of bolts up the middle of the right side of the slab face.

Pitch 1: (23) Up the smoothest part of the wall on small features to a ledge with an anchor on the vertical wall on the right.

Pitch 2: (20) Climb the left side of the wall, over the arete and up to the anchor. Pitches can be linked with a 60cm sling on the anchor of pitch 1.

Up the right side of the slab, next to Rise of The Sloths, near the body sized crack. Hard for the grade due to the old school style. Probably a 15.

Keep climbing onto P2 of R.O.T.S. For a nice long pitch dubbed 'Tinkerbella', Grade (19/20).

Balancey moves down low give way to easier slab climbing up above, anchors are the same as for Bitten By A Cobra.

Go up the face with interesting moves (can be bypassed by using the tree), good luck and have fun.

Fantastic moves on well bolted, slightly overhung face climb, then over the arete to an easy slab top out.

Start right of the Animal Farm arete, then up the slab to the anchor

Second line of bolts right of 'Animal Farm', start scrambling up on to the ledge then into the groove and follow it straight up the easiest terrain,keep the ledges on your right, trending slightly left on the top slab to the anchor. Double bolt D anchor.

Go up the boulder start or use the hand jam on your right to gain the rest of the climb. Continue up and right through the slight overhang, pulling over onto the easy slab finish.

Follow the path the white rabbit made through the overhanging arete, leading to the glorious victory jug we all aspire for.

The overhanging arete. Packs a lot of good moves in for a short route. Originally graded easy 22, then hard 20, settled on 21. Short beta possible for the crux. Tricky onsight. Originally had 6 bolts for the F.A.

Climb the face, both adjacent boulders are in as are knee pads... hint hint...

Go up the tight chimney, then into a boulder crux. Can be done as a crack eliminant which goes at 21/22.

A hard start leads to multiple cruxes high above the forest. Preclipping the first bolt might prove beneficial..

Cool moves up the left hand arete. Consistant climbing with great flow (once you have the beta sussed).

Hard onsite, easy redpoint (with good conditions). Great photo spot up and right. Preclip the 1st bolt off the small boulder to avoid an awkward ground fall at the 1st crux.

The scariest thing in all of this wood, Alice saw the rock and the rock looked good!

Multiple tecky cruxes and interesting moves make it feel longer and climb better than some other short routes. Great photo spot and views from the belay ledge.

Climb on the overhang face for 4 staples and then join the top bolt of the route to the right.

Steep start, be careful clipping 2nd bolt.

Start on the boulder to the left if the face and follow up the arete.

Up the face on the right. The first bolt is placed high after the opening problem (the crux) and then easing off a bit with a long runout at the top.

Access via track on right before you get to Dream Wall (when walking from camp). Friendly climb with views at top. One crux getting over the lip.

Fun layback moves up the short, wide crack lead to a 2nd crux up high. Great warm up route. Cleaned by Alice Heath, bolted by Dan Head.

Starts by Q.O.D. Trends left to big pockets that may take a little bite out of your pinky finger unless you tape it up. Short, sharp and sweet.

Hard 22 / V2 Highball. Powerful and fun moves. Traverses right after the crux.

Originally an easy 20 until the undercling jug broke off. Now a hard 20. Optional V1 Highball. Follows the white hangers.

21/22. Great moves and holds with a tricky crux. Follows the Grey hangers.

Another technically challenging sequence. Follows the black hangers. Recommended pre clipping the high 1st bolt.

23 / V3 Highball. Originally an easy 24.

Short, slightly overhung, crimpy route on black hangers. Crux around first bolt. Recommend stick clipping first bolt or rappelling in to place draws. Alternatively, climb as a V5 highball boulder.

Layback block start leads to a crux and slab finish.

A classic for the grade. Head up the face and arete through super jugs to the anchor.

Bolted line up the face right of 'Jug Addiction'.

Straight up the line of bolts, don't reach right into the top of Secret Squirrel.

Starts left of the arete, moving up the slab. There is an easier grade 16 RH start around the arete with 3 independent bolts.

Deceptive moves up the face opposite Pinch And A Punch. Could be a bit stiff for the grade.

Sustained. Up the steep face on small sharpish holds, move right at the 4th bolt.

"A nice spot". Up scooped holds to the arete and face. Step left under the flax bush at the top to reach the chains.

Easy, short and generously bolted.

Continue up the bolted arete above My Little Pony.

Up the pocketed face right of My Little Pony, then tend right and back left to the Pink Fluffy Unicorns anchors. Nuts, cams and hexes in pockets, good for teaching less standard placements and gear extension. Now retro bolted, WTF?

Another retro bolted easy trad route.

A cruisy multi-pitch climb with a sting in the tail

Pitch 1: (17) Head up the featured face, heading up and slightly left through the pockets. DBB. (25m)

Pitch 2: (14) A short pitch to the big dirt ledge. Walk right to access the next pitch. (10m)

Pitch 3: (17) Climb up the featured corner. Watch for some hollow blocks. (25m)

Pitch 4: (23) The sting in the tail. Commit yourself by stepping over the void before cranking through the hard overhanging moves. Take a rest in the cave before stepping left around the bulge and pulling hard to get to the top. (15m)

The first two pitches can be done in one with 15 draws.

Left line of bolts from P3 anchors of Reggae Shark.

The right hand edge of the featured face. Still very dirty for a sport route.

Adds a new start and finish to the original bolted arete of Don't Hurt my Kowhai. Start up the hand line left of Predator and take the rope leading left to reach the line of bolts in the gully.

Pitch 1: (18) Follow the bolts to any anchor above the kowhai tree. (20m, 10b)

Pitch 2: (18) Head up the bolted arete to the anchor. Head left along the hand line to the next pitch. Watch out for dropping anything on the people below you.

Best to combine pitches 1-2 (18 bolts)

Pitch 3: (18) Head up the wall onto the slab to the belay hidden in the shade. (15m, 6b)

Pitch 4: (18) Continue up the line of bolts, but be aware for whip potential. (13m, 6b)

Don't combine pitches 3-4, there is ledge fall potential and the belayer needs to see the leader. You can get down on a 60m with rope stretch from the top of pitch 2, but if unsure make your initial abseil from the top a bit longer to reach the ringbolt and chain hanger 5m further down.

Do the first couple of moves of Predator then go left up the blunt arete. Slightly right at 4th bolt then up.

Tackle the middle of the pinnacle through steep and sustained moves, topping out on the right. One of the most popular climbs at Kawakawa Bay.

A powerful start to establish on the pinnacle leads to a slabby sequence to the top.

Just around the arete from Dirty Dancing. A hardish start leads to the slab above.