Routes in Lake Taupō for selected grade

An adventurous line that snakes around wicked features, with multiple cruxes. Prepare to be hypnotised.

Closed project, please stay off. The left side of the face/slab arete. Balancey and beautiful.

Undercut start through blocks onto arete

Line of bolts up the middle of the right side of the slab face.

Pitch 1: (23) Up the smoothest part of the wall on small features to a ledge with an anchor on the vertical wall on the right.

Pitch 2: (20) Climb the left side of the wall, over the arete and up to the anchor. Pitches can be linked with a 60cm sling on the anchor of pitch 1.

Cool moves up the left hand arete. Consistant climbing with great flow (once you have the beta sussed).

Another technically challenging sequence. Follows the black hangers. Recommended pre clipping the high 1st bolt.

23 / V3 Highball. Originally an easy 24.

A cruisy multi-pitch climb with a sting in the tail

Pitch 1: (17) Head up the featured face, heading up and slightly left through the pockets. DBB. (25m)

Pitch 2: (14) A short pitch to the big dirt ledge. Walk right to access the next pitch. (10m)

Pitch 3: (17) Climb up the featured corner. Watch for some hollow blocks. (25m)

Pitch 4: (23) The sting in the tail. Commit yourself by stepping over the void before cranking through the hard overhanging moves. Take a rest in the cave before stepping left around the bulge and pulling hard to get to the top. (15m)

The first two pitches can be done in one with 15 draws.

P1 (21): Play "find the jugs" up the vertical wall right of Aliens Resurrection, then easy slab to chain anchor.

P2 (23): Continue on the left-hand line through some technical climbing.

P2 (20): Cross over the crack, then continue straight up the face to the top.

P1: (23) Follow the red streak directly in front of you into pockety terrain with jugs up high (6b, 15m)

P2: (18) Head slightly left then straight up, following the arete left to the anchors (13b, 30m)

Follow the white streak out right from Sweet 16s Not M16s anchor, heading left around the corner and through the overhang.

P1 (23) Go up the pocketed slab towards the upper arete, joining with the second pitch of Thors Little Brother. (9b, 30m)

P2 (22) Continue up the face on big but spaced holds, tackling the upper bulges and increasing exposure. (10b, 25m)

8 bolts. Right of Recycling Nachos, a V3 start (stick clip it if you don’t have fingers of steel) to sustained 20-ish climbing, a no-hands rest then a hard exit (now retrobolted for those with inferior human organs)

An impressive line up the easier slab then through two overhangs (crux at first). Lower off the anchor above the second overhang at 30m or continue to a shady ledge belay and scramble off.

Link up of P1 for Pimps Don't Cry into P2 of Black Yoda. Hand/fist sized cams will be helpful to reduce runouts.

P1: (7b) Long moves between good holds leads to an anchor up on the slab.

P2: (5b) Climb right towards a technical crux and the slab. No bolted anchor, so continue up on gear to the anchor of Fly My Pretties.

Combining pitches is doable and worth-while.

Start at the single ring bolt belay (for the belayer).

1. 25m, 7 bolts: Juggy, reachy moves lead to a crux at mid height. Continue up the slab to bolted anchors (combining pitches is rad). This pitch was Momentary Lapse Of Reason in earlier guides.

2. 30m, 5 bolts: Head up and right on good holds to a technical crux sequence to a slabby rest. A few more bolts up the face lead to a nice ledge. No anchor yet, continue up on gear. Abseil far left to make it back to the 1st belay.

The overhanging arete right of Road Tripping. Stay off the slab for full value

P1: Start as for Night Rider but traverse right at the 5th bolt to the anchor at the ledge.

P2: Step back left from the anchor and continue up the face.

A few meters right of 'Super Natural'. Left of 'The Hecklers' and 'Mexican Americans'

Pitch 1: (22) Straight up the bolted slab/arete, with a crux around the small bulge. (22m, 10b)

Pitch 2: (18) Continue up the slab/arete with some easy runouts near the top. Head up the fixed line to the next pitch. (22m, 9b)

Pitch 3: (16) Access the easy slab by traversing from the left of the slab. Clip the high bolt in the cave then move left to the belay. (18m, 5b)

Pitch 4: (20) Climb out of the belay into the arch before entering the crux. Belay at the ledge. (18m, 10b)

Pitch 5: (23) Cross using the fixed line to the ledge, take a deep breath and pull hard to get through the bolted roof. (15m, 7b)

Pitch 6: (17) Continue up the far easier terrain away from the arete to the top of the wall. (15m, 5b)

Starts left of 'After the sunset' (pitch 1)

Pitch 1: (20) Climb up the slab left of the arête. Crux around the 3rd bolt but balancy and challenging slab with small overhang in the middle all the way up. Follow fixed rope straight up to the next pitch (45m, 11b). Abseiling over anchor of 'After the Sunset' (P1) is possible.

Pitch 2: (16) [16, 20m, 8b] Climb up the slab, follow the line of bolts to the right to the ledge below 'New Wave Wall' (20m, 8b). Same as 'After the Sunset' P3.

Pitch 3: (21) Second line of bolts from the left up over the red face. After getting over the edge keep left and head up around the corner to a two-hangers-anchor. (20m, 7b)

Pitch 4: (23) Climb through the roof and up the long arete shared by After The Sunset. (25m, 10b)

Pitch 5: (14) Up to the very top. (5m, 2b)

Pitch 4 and 5 can be linked, but watch for rope drag and communication problems with second.

Walk off away from the cliff and up to the ridge track (pink tape). See better description above.

Thin crack on the steep face right of Boat Ramp Crack

An epic outing with a variety of face, crack, overhang and chimney moves

Pitch 1: (23) Climb past the 2 bolts on the face to a ledge. Continue right off the ledge to an overhanging crack. Battle through it to the belay ledge on your right.

Pitch 2: (23) Climb up the face to a crack/chimney with a small roof. Traverse right underneath this roof, then pull onto the buttress. Continue up to the Lone Pine belay tree.

CLimb up OPC Clones Go Crushing or Drunken Monkey to access this climb. Head up the start for pitch 2 of Drunken Monkey climbing the face to reach a horizontal break. Place some gear before stepping right to the face and the groove above you. Trend right to the first small roof before pulling through the left-hand side of the roof. Move left to the overhanging crack for a sting in the tale finish. Belay as for Of Moss And Men

Pitch 1: (18) Start as for Bangin' 7 Gram Rocks, 'Cause That's How I Roll. Once above the roof continue to a trad belay in the groove.

Pitch 2: (23) Climb up the groove then through two small overhangs. Move right and climb the crack system, zig zagging right then left to the belay

A newer line of the crag that doesn't have much information on it. The climb is split into three pitches, with pitch three being 23 with high fall potential.

Start left hand side pull as for stand start, right hand low crack, crank up to high crack and finish as per stand start.

The bolted route up the shallow corner immediately left of the arete. 'No one' had put much effort into cleaning it, protect it safely or even name and credit it. Now it's fully bolted (with hangers), relatively clean and adequately protected. A route for Katoa (everyone) - climbing 23's, to enjoy.

The large boulder behind it has a belay bolt on it to keep light belayers grounded.

Start on the left of the bolts and climb the crack feature, move onto the face and top out to the right, either sling the trees at the top or rap from the anchors on the face in front.

Rebolted. (3 or 4 extra bolts).

Starts up the same crack as James Stirling Direct but head directly up the arete past four blocks to the block. Gear required at the top.

Climb the face and Arete

Starts at the base of the Champagne corner then heads right to the face. Climb up the bulge to the anchor.

Pitch 1: Place gear in the Fantail crack, but traverse right past four bolts around the corner to the crack feature.

Pitch 2: Head to the arete to the ledge and up the final headwall past 6 bolts.

Climb the first pitch of Fawlty Towers or abseil from above. Great climbing in an exposed position.

Features on the cover of Rock Deluxe North.

Start up the runout to the first bolt, then continue up the classic face climbing. Anchors out to the right.

Up the face directly at the top of Wedgewood. Belay on the tree.

CLimbs the arete left of Ego Trip. Go past a ledge, step left under the roof and finish past a bolt.

The looming wall to the right of Moss Corner

Start up the slab with the slim seam to the right of STTR then head leftat steeper ground. Head back right then up the headwall.

From the far right of KAK ledge climb the black streak.

Right of the access route. Head up the bulging red wall to the mossy slab. Finish at the ledge.

Starts up the blunt arete to the anchor at the ledge. You decide if the name is fitting or not.

Starts in the scoop. Head up the crack to thin moves. Belay in the cave.

Climb up the groove past two bolts. Continue up the thin finger crack, finishing at the belay for Rough Trade.

Starts as for So LA, but heads straight through the overhang.

Head up to the ledge before going up the corner past the small overlap. There is a naked bolt around the corner that will require a wire to cip. Head right around the arete following the 2 bolts before finishing up the groove.

Climbs the red wall, following the bolts around the groove/corner. Drift left at the top to the anchor.

Climbs the corner/groove feature. A spicy outing.

From The Lost Art of Keeping a Secret ledge, head straight up the featured wall with some fire-hot moves to pull over the bulge.

From the ledge, climb up towards the arete before a final headwall. Exit by scrambling up the vegetated bolt garden

Alternate finish to The Bunk Project. Climbs the right trending seam to the pocketed headwall.

Climbs the right arching corner under the large roof. Bolted belay right of the roof.