Routes in Lake Taupō for selected grade

A wild experience in a small space. Stay out of Robin's hand crack on the left for an honest ascent. A tricky ending with hard to solve clues. Pre-placing the quickdraws is recommended, with a med-long draw on the 3rd.

A great line with three unique cruxes in three different styles. Set with creative use of a crowbar due to the hidden hammer incident.

Head up the slab into the slight dihedral corner, escaping right to a flat crimp. Delicately work your way up technical moves upwards to the large breaks and the anchor.

On the arete right of flake 7

Alternate start to 'Back to the Future'. Traverse from a crack on the right and continue as for Back to the Future at the 3rd bolt.

Gear can and should be placed during the traverse to protect you until the 3rd bolt

Climbs the slightly overhanging face, left of Biggie Smalls. Consistant and tecky moves with a cool crux and mantle. Great photo spot out right.

coming soon - a hard right hand exit (sans mantle) *closed project

Climb the face, both adjacent boulders are in as are knee pads... hint hint...

A hard start leads to multiple cruxes high above the forest. Preclipping the first bolt might prove beneficial..

Hard onsite, easy redpoint (with good conditions). Great photo spot up and right. Preclip the 1st bolt off the small boulder to avoid an awkward ground fall at the 1st crux.

Do the first couple of moves of Predator then go left up the blunt arete. Slightly right at 4th bolt then up.

On the lone buttress 40 meters right of The Tombstone. Boulder start followed up an easy dihedral.

Bold and beautiful. Tough for the grade unless you’re brave and know the moves. As for Fly My Pretties, but go right after the 2nd bolt onto stupendous terrain!

Starts high on the wall (100m up!), left of Fraggle Rock. Access by climbing one the multi-pitches that finish close by. From the top of 'After the Sunset', head left (back towards camp) for about 20m until you spot a double bolt anchor to rap in. The next belay station is quite far left. Alternatively, climb the left variation exit for Fraggle Rock to the same top anchor.

Originally a mixed route (one cam at the top), now fully bolted. Definitely worth the effort to try this little beauty. Video link below.

https://vimeo.com/121409944

Like '2 Minutes in Heaven', this starts most of the way up the wall. To the right of Mexican Americans pitch 3. Shares the first 15m with 'Kung Fu Panda', then leads right up.

https://vimeo.com/116741555

Fully bolted except for the crux pitch that takes good gear (with one bolt to protect the 2nd crux).

Start as for The Eagle Huntress but climbs direct at the middle crux. Lower into the cave via the quick clip anchors to begin pitch two.

Pitch 3 starts off the big ledge. Consistent climbing leads to an easy top section.

Pitch 4 another great sport pitch with a tricky exit and comfy belay ledge.

Pitch 5 (crux) trends right and up with plenty of gear options at the main crux that climbs through an atmospheric overhang.

Pitch 6 a powerful start leads to tecky corner moves that may feel hard until you find your best beta. A great rest post crux leads to a fun, right-trending exit on more cool features.

Starts from the top of P1 of The Odyssey.

Pitch 1: (24) originally 25 After establishing on the slab continue up the steep roof utilising the fist-sized pod. Belay above the lip.

Pitch 2: (23) Head up the right hand corner system, then left once you have pushed into the slab.

Bring a #4 cam for the belay. P2 would be improved by adding a bolt or two, to make it more enjoyable /less sketchy (permission granted by the f.a.).

Start left hand side pull as for stand start, right hand low crack, crank up to high crack and finish as per stand start.

Starts up the right side of the obvious pillar. Beware the choss.

Starts just left of the New Black on glue in ring bolts. Keep left of the over hung roof through the chains and up the head wall.

Start up Priapism but instead of going direct keep traversing at the 5th bolt to finish up Tartarus. Cuts out any no hands rests, sustained but none as hard as the priapism heart breaker.

Start as per Man Over Board and then head left at the fourth bolt. Follow the holds up to the corner then climb the corner to finish.

The thin crack

Good climbing with thin gear. Can top rope off Jungle Judy anchor. Has a 2nd pitch (22)

Small cams useful. First climbed on small hexes.

small pockets

A demanding short bouldery route.

You'll need to get through the choss at the bottom to access this great route. The second pitch is protected by bolts, gear and limbs.

Left of Moss Corner

Head up the groove to the right of the black streaked slab. Step left onto the slab then up the corner and face, drifting left onto the faces at the top.

Climbing the wall on sloping huecos to a tough move at the top, shares anchor with "gunga din"

Starts off the boulder. Up the steep corner right of Even Dwarves Started Small.

Go up the central part of the wall going through a wide variety of terrain. Extendable draws will be useful.

From the hanging belay, head up towards the hanging arete before trending right onto the side of the arete to the top.

Heads up the thin crack to a shared bolted belay with Street Legal.