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Access issues inherited from Twin Stream

This is an alpine environment in a national park. ALL waste must be carried out. Take a poo pot (available from Unwin lodge or DOC at Mt Cook info centre).

Ethic inherited from Twin Stream

Bolts are only placed where no gear is available. If that means one gear placement on an otherwise bolted pitch, so be it.


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Grade Route

1 (30m): Gain the arete from the highest wee shelf on the left, clip the bolt, then continue up the arete. Note there is a hard to see bolt above the lip before you reach the bolted anchor, to the left of the grassy crack. 2 (15m): A short pitch up through the featured overlap, build an anchor. 3 (40m): Trend back left toward the arete and continue to a bolted belay at the big terrace.

1: Gain the El Nino arete then immediately traverse down and right to a bolted belay stance above the overhang. 2: Climb the bolted slab to below the notch then continue on gear and build an anchor around the base of the crack. 3: Climb the crack, narrowing from fists to thin hands before it disappears. Continue to a bolted belay at the big terrace.


Check out what is happening in Lower Wall.