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Access issues inherited from Ti Point

The crag borders private property so please respect this.

Take note of tide times before you head out as the base of some routes around the Arch area and ‘The Fang’ are below the high tide line. There is an access track around the back of the crag which may have to be used at high tide and also provide access to the top of most routes.

Routes

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Grade Route

The seaward rib of the big arch, start up a wide crack to the left of the rib. Move right onto the ledge at half height to a thin crack on the face.

Protection is poor.

FA: Bryce Martin & Simon Vallings, 1983

The outside edge of ‘The Arch' - a must do.

If the tide is out you can start at the very base of the edge, otherwise step off the block to the right and traverse to the edge and the first bolt. The climb goes straight up the edge, with a slight detour to the right at the third bolt. Double bolt belay.

FA: Graeme Dingle, 1999

Just left of the first edge to the right of ‘The Arch’. Clip the bolt at the bottom of the edge and immediately move left to easier climbing. Climb just to the left of the next two bolts then step left to take some support on ‘The Arch’. The fifth bolt is to the left on ‘The Arch’. Climb up the left wall to the wide crack, the sixth bolt and a little further on and further to a double bolt belay to the right.

FA: Graeme Dingle & Sarah Moodie, 1997

The first edge to the right of ‘The Arch’. A wonderfully technical climb. Climb the edge to just above the fourth bolt where you step right to the fifth bolt and finish up past a sixth to a double bolt belay.

FA: Graeme Dingle, 1997

Begin in the crack to the right (as for Hjar) and move left out onto the face just below the first bolt (about half height). DBC.

FA: Grant Davidson & John Dawson, 1984

Immediately to the right of the Arch is a wide crack that narrows to a chockstone near the top. DBC.

FA: Rick McGregor & Geoff Mead, 1975

The second arête from the Arch. Climb past the first bolt to the ledge on the right then straight up. DBC.

FA: Graeme Dingle, 1996

The second crack from the Arch, with a chockstone near the top. Awkward start and increasingly difficult over the chockstone.

FA: Robbie McBirney, 1974

Start below the pocketed rock (the spongy bovine encephalitis) and climb up tending right until past the second bolt (crux). Move left to the ledge past the third and continue up. DBB.

FA: Graeme Dingle & Kaaren Cordukes, 1996

The fist crack right of "C.J.D Arete", climb the crack direct - awkward at the bottom. Alternatively start as for Mihna and traverse in to the crack.

FA: Robbie McBirney & Geoff Shekell, 1974

A rising traverse, start as for "C.J.D Arete" and climb to the second bolt before stepping right into a hand crack where a large nut/cam can be placed. Step right to the fourth bolt on "J.E.M." and continue up "J.E.M."

FA: Graeme Dingle & Sarah Moodie, 1997

The thin crack, gained by climbing the steep wall on big pockets. From ledges ascend the crack straight up. The third bolt on "J.E.M." helps with otherwise lean protection.

FA: Rick McGregor, 1974

The last arête before the gulley. Begin up a wide crack and clip the first and second bolts. Move left at the second bolt and gain the ledge, clipping the third. Straight up to the pohutakawa belay.

FA: Graeme Dingle, 1996

Start as for "J.E.M.", and then climb the crack to the large rubbly ledges. Scramble to the first groove on the left wall and up to tree belay.

FA: Brian Alexander, Bryan Dudley & John Watson, 1972

Climb the short offwidth to the right of the gully, then head right, up the hanging corner to gain a large ledge. Beware of loose rock. Continue up the offwidth with a chockstone above, finish to the right of the arete. There are rap chains behind the large blocks.

FA: Rick McGregor & Cado Avenali, 1974

Climb the off width, moving left to clip the first bolt. Then straight up to the DBC belay.

FA: Graeme Dingle & Ken Harcombe, 1999

Second pitch of "Polly, International Terrorist".

From the belay climb straight up past the first bolt and traverse left after the second bolt to the arête. Then straight up past the last bolt to DBC.

FA: Graeme Dingle & Neil Withers, 2000

The face to the right of the off width. Move right from the off width, clipping the first bolt and stepping on to the face. Move straight up the seam and traverse left to the belay. Be mindful of potentially loose blocks above the buttress.

FA: Mark Bodt & Marcus Thomas, 1991

Second Pitch of 'I Hear The Devil Calling Me'.

From belay move up and right over easy ground past a bolt to a short but tricky wall with another bolt. Climb the easy arête above to the DBC belay.

FA: Graeme Dingle, 2000

The poorly protected off width corner is climbed past a chockstone. Descend down the back or continue up to the left on poor rock.

FA: Gordon Mather & John Watson, 1972

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