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Access issues inherited from Ti Point

The crag borders private property so please respect this.

Take note of tide times before you head out as the base of some routes around the Arch area and ‘The Fang’ are below the high tide line. There is an access track around the back of the crag which may have to be used at high tide and also provide access to the top of most routes.

Routes

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Grade Route

Sustained route straight up the face of the pillar with balancy moves towards the top.

FA: Derek Watts, 2003

FA: Lydia Bradley, 1992

Climb the twin cracks to a chock stone at half height, finish up left to good ledges.

Grad 17 variation, climb the right hand crack direct.

FA: Robbie McBirney & Rick McGregor, 1973

Straight up past four bolts to belay on top of pinnacle.

FA: Tom Snelder, 1992

The crack through the pea pod. Belay as for Man From Atlantis.

FA: Geoff Shekell & Cliff Smith, 1972

Corner crack left of the gully. Climb the wide crack, exiting on large holds over some chock stones. Belay off blocks at the top or continue up the gully to anchors.

Step left onto a steep slab below the only bolt. Straight up into the crack to the top. Belay off blocks at the top or continue up the gully to anchors.

FA: Graeme Dingle, Derek Watts, Ken Harcombe & Bev Smith, 1999

Climb the slabby rib, moving right from the ledge at 5m . Up for 3m till you can step back left onto the rib, and on to the top. Belay off blocks at the top or continue up the gully to anchors.

FA: Cliff Smith, John Maine & Mike Dean, 1973

To the right of the gully, the steep wall with prominent crack systems. Follow a leftward slanting crack up through a bulging blocky section stepping right when the crack runs out and then to the top.

FA: Derek Watts & Ken Harcombe

Activity

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