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Access issues inherited from Ti Point

The crag borders private property so please respect this.

Take note of tide times before you head out as the base of some routes around the Arch area and ‘The Fang’ are below the high tide line. There is an access track around the back of the crag which may have to be used at high tide and also provide access to the top of most routes.

Routes

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Grade Route

Between two chimneys is a slabby wall. There are a lot of large pohutukawas at the top of this part of the cliff and this route is below the eastern most tree.

Climb easily past the first bolt to the ledge. Move right past the second bolt and up the outside of the chimney, past the third bolt and up into the wide crack.

The bolts then continue up the left face to the new rams horns anchors.

FA: Graeme Dingle & Ariaan Dingle, 1998

Start at the lowest point of the chimney and climb easy ground into the chimney proper. Up the chimney to easy ledges, then the rib above.

FA: John Watson, Bryan Dudley & Brian Alexander, 1972

Start up the thin crack, pulling onto the face with some big moves to the break at about half height. Move right and up to the top.

Shares anchors with JP Superdog

FA: Michael Welson, 2001

A broken hand crack on the left of a slabby wall. Climb past a small tree up to a large one and belay.

A slabby wall with Titanium Rams Horns for belay, behind the large block and finishing at the same pohutukawa as ‘Slap and Tickle’.

Rams Horn Details: https://youtu.be/3QKKx69xN7M

FA: Graeme Dingle, Brandon Daniell & Heather Howlett, 2004

The chimney finishing at a large tree.

FA: John Watson, Bryan Dudley & Brian Alexander, 1972

Four bolts and tree belay. Follow the two almost horizontal bolts traversing right until reaching the arête and finishing as for ‘The Appendix’ past the third and fourth bolt. Graeme Dingle, Brandon Daniell and Andrew Batten, 2004

FA: Graeme Dingle, Brandon Daniell & Andrew Batten, 2004

Climb the arête and up over the bulge, 4 bolts and tree belay. The crux is well protected and a hidden jug will prove to be your salvation.

FA: Graeme Dingle & Fiona Joyce, 1996

Climb the slabby wall to the ledge at the base of overhanging section placing a wire or cam on the way or clip the first bolt of ‘The Appendix’. From the ledge clip the chain link bolt on the headwall then move up past this to clip, to the left the last bolt on ‘The Appendix’.

FA: Graeme Dingle, Brandon Daniell & Andrew Batten, 2004

The short corner just before the grassy bank, there is a chain link hanger on the left face at about half height. Climb the crack or face on the left until the chockstone, over and then the left face or squeeze up the crack.

FA: John Watson, Bryan Dudley & Brian Alexander, 1972

On the large block - juggy and steep.

FA: Graeme Dingle, Brandon Daniell, Heather Howlett & Simon McFedries, 2004

To the right of 'Birds Can’t Fly on One Wing' climb the obvious line up the centre of the block.

FA: Graeme Dingle, 2004

Right of ‘The Appendix’ is a steep wall with two bolts. Start on the right side of the wall and climb past the first two bolts to a ledge and a third bolt. Climb over the bulge to belay on the pohutukawa.

FA: Graeme Dingle, Mark & Craig Johnston

FA: Jeff Clark & Gordon Mather, 1972

The short crack facing the sea, Crux is the second section of the crack proper, tree belay back from the top.

FA: John Watson, 1972

To the right of the hand crack, at the foot of the first crack is a large sharp rock from which the first bolt can be clipped. Climb out of the overhang to the second bolt and belay off the pohutakawa tree above.

FA: Graeme Dingle & Dillon Vickery, 1996

The leaning chimney crack in the middle of the buttress. Tree belay.

FA: John Watson, Brian Dudley & Brian Alexander, 1972

The slightly over hanging wall with three bolts. There is only one hard move, just above the second bolt. Belay on the Pohutakawa.

FA: Graeme Dingle, Fiona Joyce & Liz Horne, 1996

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