Routes in Pioneer hut

Mostly good rock with sustained grade 12/13 climbing and a fun exposed crux. Gear can sometimes be tricky though always around when you want it. Start right of a steep rock face and left of an obvious rock fall gulley. Climb the rock for approximately 3 full rope lengths and then traverse out onto the arete on the 4th pitch (crux). Follow the arete to the pinnacle of the fin where you will find some tat and a rap ring to get back onto the glacier.

From the col between Grey Peak and Humdinger, climb the arete. NZ Grade II, 3

Exact route unknown. NZ Grade II, 2+.

Nice climbing on decent red greywacke. NZ Grade II, 3.

Takes a direct line through the red pillar that leads through the roofs on the left side. P1 (19) - Climb past the vertical crack out of the alcove and move onto textured orange rock. Traverse right directly under pink, blank rock and up to a belay in a crack. P2 (20) - Traverse left and up the slab. Move to the left hand crack, passing through the steepest ground on the right crack before moving left into a crack/corner belay. P3 (20) - Step right onto the pillar and climb through technical ground heading first left, then right and up to belay in cracks. P4 (18) - Climb up the dark groove to the base of a clean left facing corner and big belay ledge. P5 (16) - Climb the corner and belay above the top of the tower. P6 (14) - Trend left and belay just beyond a cave. P7 (14) - Climb up to the ledge.

Scramble to Kahu to find the rap line which takes you back to the glacier.

6 pitches through the right side of the face and passes through the roof on the right side of the prominent rectangular block. P1 (18) - Climb crack and belay under left facing corner. P2 (21) - Climb the triple cracks and the left facing corner.From top of the tower step left and climb through buldge. P3 (17) - Climb up then right to gain left trending ramp. Follow before climbing a chimney then break left past the orange block. P4 (17) - Follow the brek left, then head right and up onto clean orange rock. Belay on a flat spot. P5 (14) - Climb up on easy ground heading right of the big hole/cave above. P6 (14) - Follow right trending break to the top of the light coloured headwall, where you will find the first bolted rap anchor.

A seperate rap line takes you back to the glacier.

Follows the abseil anchors up. First pitch is the crux and climbing progressively eases from there to easy scrambling. An easy solo on scree gets you to the top of Humdinger. Bring some rap tat as some of the anchors have only one bolt.

Up the coolie not described in guide book for one (maybe two) pitches of mixed. (M3/4) followed by 45-50 degree Snow/Ice for 75 m to true summit. Rapped into and down main coolie (Very loose rock on descent). Not sure if this has been climbed before. If this is a FA, we propose the name "Blitzing everywhere"

Up loose first pitch to single bolt belay. Then good hand crack to double bolt belay. Fixed Pitons on right at crux.