Routes in Britten Crag for selected grade

Destroyed during the earthquakes.

Hard climbing through the big roof to the third bolt over the lip. Shares the last bolt of Off The Shelf and the same anchor.

Start as for Speight’s Race, clipping its first bolt. Upon reaching the roof, lean out left and clip, then surmount the prow, trending left to the next bolt. Easier but balancey climbing past 2 more bolts leads to the anchor.

Start down by the nettles below a large roof resembling an inverted staircase. Move easily up to clip the first and second bolts to the more strenuous, technical climbing and a good hold at the third bolt. Weave your way around on good holds past the next two bolts to exit through an obvious notch. Five bolts. Two bolt anchor with chains above and to the left.

A direct start with two extra bolts, plus one from Nor West Arch.

Starts directly in front of the large boulder. Straightforward moves on good holds past the first bolt, followed by long reaches on small crimps and/or a dyno through the overhang. Continue over the lip where the third bolt intersects with Nor West Arch. Finish up the arête above. Six bolts, with an optional small cam placement between fourth and fifth.

Above an overgrown block is this route up a steeply overhanging wall. Simon Middlemass set it up, but Jeff did it not realising it was a first ascent.

Close to YG but good independent climbing. Carefully pull over the roof above the track on funky holds. Clip the 2nd bolt of YG then crimp up the groove on its right. Then there are three more bolts and larger holds

Climb the Butcher to the 4th bolt then link into Wall Street for its bulge crux.

The last route through the roof. A short capped corner gives access to the roof. Go straight over the top bulge, clipping if you have strength to burn. Once at the headwall bolt traverse off directly right to the last move and anchors of Weet-bix Kids

Start 1½ metres right in a short corner. Hard moves onto a ledge, then shuffle left and clip the second bolt. Straight up the wall with a series of dynamic moves to finish on a ledge above and right of the Liposuction anchors at a single lowering bolt at the back of the ledge.