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Main Cliff

  • Grade context: AU
  • Approach time: 15
  • Ascents: 153

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Routes

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Grade Route

Destroyed during the earthquakes.

FA: Stu McConney

Destroyed during the earthquakes.

FA: Guy Cotter, 1989

Great route with a terrible approach! Well bolted and great for the grade. Enjoy the exposure up high!

FA: Tony Burnell, 2015

FA: John McCallum, 1986

FA: Kester Brown, 2012

A climb with mixed personalities! First bolt is high! Lots of nuts needed for top.

FA: Roger Parkyn, 1986

FA: Henry Mares, 1977

FA: Kester Brown, 2012

FA: Richard Thomson, 1986

Nice, technical and sustained.

FA: Joe Arts, 2004

Gentle pats on the bottom lead to greater excitement. The line of bolts just to the right of Whacking Moles. Skirts the right-hand edge of the large cave/scoop. Another fine, popular route with friendly bolting. The long run-out in the middle is as inexplicable as the missing 'h', but the climbing is of much lower difficulty on this section. The original route on this section of wall was Spanking Wendy (Guy Cotter, 1989), which has the same start as HFHF, but breaks left after the first bolt to the cave and climbs the headwall section of Wacking Wendy—it has been superceded by its neighbouring routes so that it's is now a pretty much redundant link-up that is never climbed.

FA: Tony Burnell

FA: Guy Cotter, 1989

FA: Guy Cotter, 1989

FA: Gavin Tweedie, 1992

FA: John McCallum, 1986

FA: Roland Foster, 2016

FA: Roger Parkyn, 1996

FA: Tony Burnell, 1996

FA: James Moar, 1986

FA: Dave Fearnley, 1988

FA: Derek Thatcher

Climb just to the right of the bolts. Delicate and technical all the way, with a safe run out up to the 4th bolt. Recover your nerves before leading up to the anchors, which are a long way away!

FA: Ton Snelder, 1986

FA: Tony Burnell, 2012

FA: Richard Thomson, 1986

FA: Dave Fearnley, 1986

FA: Paul Tattersall, 1986

FA: Dave Fearnley, 1988

Follows first three bolts of Spliffhanger, then continues directly up.

FA: Tony Burnell, 2015

FA: John McCallum & Chris Owens, 1995

FA: Tony Burnell, 2015

FA: Tony Burnell, Mar 2016

FA: Tony Burnell, Mar 2016

Destroyed during the earthquakes.

FA: Steve Elder, 1990

Destroyed during the earthquakes.

FA: Simon Middlemass, 1989

FA: Tony Burnell, Mar 2016

FA: Tony Burnell, Mar 2016

FA: Sefton Priestly, Apr 2018

FA: 1998

Very beautiful route, powerful climbing with almost every kind of move and hold imaginable. Sustained except for the sit-down ledge at halfway.

FA: Bill McLeod, 1989

FA: Martyn Clarke, 1995

Climb up slabby wall to crux section over the bulge.

FA: Tony Burnell, 2014

Destroyed during earthquakes.

FA: Stu McConney, 1996

Destroyed during earthquakes.

FA: Lindsay Main & 1977, 1977

FA: Tony Burnell, 2018

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