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The Zoo

  • Grade context: AU
  • Approach time: 10
  • Ascents: 117
22

Seasonality

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Description

This is the first cliff reached after climbing down the rocky step in the track and rounding the corner.

For some climbs anchors may be hard to find and are sometimes well back from the cliff edge. There is one set of bolt anchors (above Transmogrification). For the first few routes anchor to a large boulder. Trad routes in particular are likely to be a little loose.

Routes

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Grade Route

Climb the small face following intermittent cracks, then up the arete tending right to the anchor.

FA: Lindsay Main, 2000

Follow the narrow chimney beside the arete to a leaning crack.

FA: Daryll Thomson, 1973

1m right of the wide crack, straight up the face.

FA: Lindsay Main, 2000

Thin crack a metre right of the arete. Medium cams useful to protect an easy runout above the last bolt.

FA: Joe Arts, 2000

Climb through a small triangular roof, then on to the wall. Uses upper two bolts for Yellow Splendour. Unprotected start.

FA: Tony Burnell, 2000

Start just left of Kingfisher and boulder up to the first bolt on small holds, then more positive moves leftward to the second bolt, and finish slightly right up the left side of the arete. Don't pull two hard on holds around the 2nd bolt or veer left to avoid crumbly rocks.

FA: Joe Arts, 2000

Climb a prominent corner, passing a roof halfway up to the right. Bolted crux.

FA: Neil Sloan, 1993

Just right of Kingfisher. Climb a slabby wall, then follow a groove up to the roof. Pull through the roof and finish on the steep face.

FA: Tony Burnell, 2000

Start as for Kingfisher and move right on to the slab below the overhang.

FA: Tony Burnell, 2000

Start as for Gorilla At Large, and traverse right at the first bolt.

FA: Marcus Thomas, 2000

Climb the broken corner a few metres right of Kingfisher. Start under the right side of the roof halfway up the corner, and pass it to the left.

FA: Neil Sloan, 1993

Start as for Wine And Beer It to the first bolt, then continue up the groove on the right of the arete. Shares an anchor with Transmogrification.

FA: Tony Burnell, 2000

Climb up the middle of the prominent wall with an overhang at the top.

FA: Neil Sloan, 1993

Start up the steepening wall a metre left of the corner, move slightly left at the bulge, and finish at the top crack. Loose rock and minimal protection.

FA: Bill McLeod, 1992

Up the corner.

Face crack with very good pro. There is an optional bolt after the ledge but quite useless as the two last meters are just a walk to the anchor.

FA: Neil Sloan, 1993

Mixed climb. Share the first high bolt of BBB. Stay left of the bolt, then clip the second bolt and place a small wire before running out for the top anchor.

FA: Calum Hudson, 1995

4 bolts up wall to shared anchor with TMPP.

FA: John Entwisle, 2010

A few metres right among the bush lawyer.

FA: Lindsay Main, 1974

Short right-facing corner crack around the arete.

FA: Lindsay Main, 1981

A short wall two metres right, with a left-leaning crack.

FA: Neil Sloan, 1993

A wide crack around the arete, left of the bushes.

FA: Neil Sloan, 1993

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