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Tiger Wall

  • Grade context: AU
  • Approach time: 15min
  • Ascents: 120
29

Seasonality

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Description

This is a dark-coloured south-facing wall, severely undercut on the left side. It has some great climbs, with the benefit of shade during warmer weather.

Routes

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Grade Route

Start just right of Mis-spent Youth and climb straight up the steep wall over a small roof (good gear just above) and into a groove. At the top of the groove make a committing move move right to a rest below a small bulge. Continue up to a ledge and finish more easily to a single bolt. Good protection except at the move right, which is runout and a bit scary. .

FA: Tony Burnell, 2000

Start as for WAFTT. Climb to the first bolt but then go left and climb the insipient leftward trending crack past a second bolt to a good rest and a third bolt. Step right and climb the bulging face past the fourth bolt. Finish up easier ground to a single old bolt on top of the crag

FA: Tony Burnell, 2000

Climbs the severely undercut wall direct, start just left of the start of Where Angels Fear to Tread

FA: Tony Burnell, 2000

Three metres right of Mis-spent Youth, just left of a black streak. Prepared by Simon Middlemass eons ago, and climbed inadvertently. Hard start, then trend right on fingery holds. Five bolts, use Sunburst Finish anchors.

FA: Ico de Zwart, 2000

About four metres left of the Matterhorn boulder. Over the roof to a resting ledge. Finish up the steepest part of the black wall to a double bolt anchor. Five bolts tending right.

FA: Tony Burnell, 1999

An alternative start to “Sun Burst Finish” start just right of a slimy seepage line, climb direct onto the ledge and corner, follow the line of bolts across the roof to join “SBF”

FA: Tony Burnell, 2000

Through a large roof moving left, then up the wall above. Five bolts, the first shared with the next route

FA: Tony Burnell, 2000

An overhanging corner with stepped roofs above the Matterhorn boulder. Pull on to the ledge and climb the corner; then move left to a small ledge. Tricky move to the last bolt, then up slightly left to finish at the lowest point. Unfortunately this is the last route on the crag to dry.

FA: Tony Burnell, 1999

An eliminate line between American Dream and Speights Race, with good strenuous climbing. From the top of the ochre coloured block climb the initial wall past two bolts to the large roof. Go slightly right, then back left to the third bolt, which is out of sight around the nose on the left. Go straight up to a fourth bolt and a high step onto the steep head wall above. At the fifth bolt finish direct (steep and fingery), or alternatively above the fifth bolt move left to the top of the groove

FA: Tony Burnell, 2000

Overhanging route left of the cave, partially prepared by Simon Courtois. Start at the yellow boulder and haul up over the roofs on good holds, moving slightly right to finish. Great cranking. The abseil chains have good access from the top, but tend to land you in the elderberry. .

FA: Tony Burnell, 1999

Start on top of the yellow lichen-covered boulder. Pull over the roof (second bolt to the right) and up to a detached book-like flake. Finish up the easier groove above. Three bolts plus cams. Anchors to the right (for Southern Exposure) are not well placed for cleaning.

FA: Pere Logan, 2000

Start at the very right end of the yellow lichen-covered boulder. Cross the roof at its widest part and continue up a blocky looking wall with good holds to the final bolt and a tricky exit. Good fun - this is how sport climbing should be. Two-ring anchor. The belayer may wish to tie to the elder tree to avoid being dragged into mud or nettles. Now missing its third bolt, which just sort of exploded out of the wall during a fall apparently.

FA: Tony Burnell, 2000

Takes a line left of Southern Exposure, swing out left onto reasonable holds, continue gymnastically over the roof and up small holds to get to a jug at the fourth BR. Move up and over the roof to finish at the belay of SE.

FA: Tony Burnell, 2000

Start down by the nettles below a large roof resembling an inverted staircase. Move easily up to clip the first and second bolts to the more strenuous, technical climbing and a good hold at the third bolt. Weave your way around on good holds past the next two bolts to exit through an obvious notch. Five bolts. Two bolt anchor with chains above

FA: Tony Burnell, 2000

Start at the edge of the cave just left of Big Girls Blouse, below and right of the first bolt. Move diagonally up and left past the first bolt to the second. Climb straight up the wall to the roof, then move left, up and back right over the roof to finish. The anchor is on a block up in the grass about five metres back. Four bolts. .

FA: Tony Burnell, 2000

Just right, at the right edge of the overhangs. Start as for the next route, but move left (committing) and follow four bolts up the wall and through a small roof (either left or right of the fourth bolt) to a lowering bolt. There's also an abseil station above.

FA: Simon, 1998

At last, a 20 with bite - borderline 21. Direct route up the undercut arête. Committing moves with hard pulls to the second bolt, then easier to the top. Four bolts and a lowering bolt

FA: Dave Shotwell, 1998

The right-facing corner a metre right of The Big Lebowski. A bold start on good rock to gain the crack is followed by easier climbing, with a steeper finish up the crack to TBL's anchors. Natural gear.

FA: John Iseli, 2001

Impressive line finishing up the high prow. Step carefully up and right to the second bolt (run-out), then move leftward past the third bolt. The route steepens above the fourth bolt, with tricky moves on to the "Pizza-eating Ledge", left of the fifth bolt. Climb up and step right for the move to the chains at the lip. Seven bolts, and abseil chains.

FA: Simon Courtois, 1997

Right of BV, up to slightly overhug wall. Climb over the lip and use the rap station to just rightwards.

FA: Grant Piper, 2008

Up easier terrain a couple of metres right of "Fear As Fuel". One of the highest route of the crag. Enjoy the view during the finish on the prow.

FA: Simon, 2008

Two metres right, easy climbing straight up past the first 3 bolts. From square-edged hold about a metre left of the 4th bolt some nice moves take you right and up through some angled features past the 5th bolt toward a small rounded overhanging roof. Double ring anchors.

FA: Andrew Buist, 2010

A little loose.

FA: 2013

A couple of metres right is this nice route up a steepening wall and over a small bulge near the top. Four bolts, chain link anchors just over the lip. .

FA: Andrew Buist, 2000

In the centre of the brown wall is this direct route over a small roof and up a steep headwall. Hard pulling over the roof, then a rest before a steep exit on the upper wall.

FA: Dave Shotwell, 1998

Another one a couple of metres right. Straight-forward climbing until the wall steepens, with a slopey top out requiring a move to the right. Four bolts and shares a double chain anchor with the next climb. .

FA: Andrew Buist, 2000

Two metres right is a line of six bolts (top one hidden) up a straightforward wall to a small roof and into a groove. Excellent climbing - easy to the fourth bolt, then technical moves to the top. Abseil anchors slightly rightwards.

FA: Simon

From the start of "What R U Reckon?" move right past the 1st bolt, drift back to the 2nd and then up. From the 5th bolt climb up & directly to What do ya Reckon's rap-station.

FA: Andrew Buist, 2010

May have a loose block.

FA: Sue McLean, 2011

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