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The Alcove

  • Grade context: AU
  • Approach time: 20min
  • Ascents: 87
32

Seasonality

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Description

This is the section of cliff-line facing west, closest to the Mt Pleasant Spur Right Cliff, and extending along to a large cave inhabited by pigeons. The main focus for those seeking the harder routes.

Routes

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Grade Route

Staunch pulling over the roof and up the arête at the left end of The Alcove. Head left for a start, then clip the first bolt and move right to the arête and up. Climb the easy face to a steepening exit beside the bush, with surprisingly tricky moves on the slopers to top out. Five bolts and anchor rings.

FA: Lindsay Main, 2001

Hard pulling to get through the roof, joining Endless Summer after the third bolt.

FA: Richard Kimberley, 2001

Fairly easy for the grade. Starts up the left-leading weakness through the roof on the left side of The Alcove. Follow three bolts leftward and then pull over the roof on good holds into a shallow groove with a bridging rest. Steepening finish, with the best holds leading left. Use the anchors of one of the adjacent routes.

FA: Richard Kimberley, 2000

Better than the name suggests. Six bolts. A central finish between the two earlier options to the Tropical Storm anchors.

FA: Richard Kimberley, 2002

Climb leftward through the roof as for the previous route, and then move right about two metres and climb a corner over a small roof, heading left to ring hanger anchors.

FA: Richard Kimberley, 2000

Start as for Tropical Storm, but at the third bolt hand traverse rightward along the lip of the roof till you reach Skunk 2, and lower off its third bol

FA: Richard Kimberley, 2000

A direct start with two extra bolts, plus one from Nor West Arch.

FA: Andrew Buist, 2001

Starts directly in front of the large boulder. Straight-forward moves on good holds past the first bolt, followed by some large reaches on smallish holds through the overhang. Continue over the lip where the third bolt intersects with Nor West Arch. Finish up the arête above. Six bolts, with an optional small cam placement between fourth and fifth. Shares anchors with Skunk 2.

FA: Andrew Buist, 2000

Climb the right-leaning weakness past two bolts to the last bolt of the Nor West Arch traverse. Pull past it on the right to gain a rest in the crack above, which takes larger wires. Then move to the left crack and climb to the top of the pillar, with good cams. Steep climbing on good holds to finish, and move left to the anchors. Better than the name suggests. Double ring anchor

FA: Richard Kimberley, 2000

Pull hard through the overhang past two bolts, then move rightward, clipping the third bolt from a good hold in the base of the groove to the left. Step right and power on up the prow, moving left to the fifth bolt and a positive exit. Five bolts and anchors

FA: John Iseli, 2000

Left finish from Panda Monium's third bolt

FA: Richard Kimberley, 2001

Above an overgrown block is this route up a steeply overhanging wall featuring five older-style removable bolts. Simon Middlemass set it up, but Jeff did it not realising it was a first ascent.

Set by Simon Middlemass, 1993

FA: Jeff Shrimpton, 1993

A line of right-trending bolts finishing up an overhanging bulge. Start two metres right of Panda Monium and move up; then traverse right along a ledge to the second bolt before moving left to a large undercling. Thin holds lead to a traverse past the third bolt and then up to bigger holds. After losing a hold, this route is harder than when first climbed. Shares anchors with the next route.

FA: Richard Kimberley, 2000

Close to YG but good independent climbing. Carefully pull over the roof above the track on funky holds. Clip the 2nd bolt of YG then crimp up the groove on its right. Then there are three more bolts and larger holds

FA: Tony Ward-Holmes, 2001

Climb from the alcove right of Peak Plonkers through the left side of a large roof. Slightly left after the fifth bolt under some large blocks to gain the anchors. Five bolts

FA: Pere Logan, 2000

Climb past a large pod and over a flat roof to a headwall, tending left.

FA: Sefton Priestley, 2000

Climbs the obvious big corner / roof. Traverse right under the roof, into the V niche, then trend left and up to chain anchors

FA: Richard Kimberley, 2000

Now 28 - until Vaughan glues the hold back on. Very steep route with glued holds two metres right. Climb past five bolts up a steeply overhanging wall to abseil chains. Originally a project by Matt Evrard

FA: Richard Kimberley, 1999

Another couple of metres right with even more glued holds. Good moves though. Above the bulge finish as for Mt Pleasant Butcher

FA: Tony Ward-Holmes, 2001

The last route through the roof. A short capped corner gives access to the roof. Go straight over the top bulge, clipping if you have strength to burn. Once at the headwall bolt traverse off directly right to the last move and anchors of Weet-bix Kids

FA: Tony Burnell

Skirts the right side of the roof. Difficult start on slopey holds. Climb the shallow groove to a small roof, then left to gain a standing position on the ledge. Finish up the steep crumbly wall to a large ledge and lowering anchor

FA: Tony Burnell, 1999

First route of the "modern" development of Britten.Deceptively steep wall just left of the cave. A nut or large wire can be used at the start climbing onto the protruding nose Straight up the wall to a good hold left of the third bolt, then rightward to the chains just above the lip on the right

FA: Simon Middlemass, 1993

Start 1½ metres right in a short corner. Hard moves onto a ledge, then shuffle left and clip the second bolt. Straight up the wall with a series of dynamic moves to finish on a ledge above and right of the Liposuction anchors at a single lowering bolt at the back of the ledge.

FA: Tony Burnell, 2000

On the left side of the pigeon cave. Follow four bolts up an ever steepening wall and across the top roof on better holds than you might expect. Use Mutilation's anchors

FA: Ico De Zwart, 2000

On the left side of the cave. Four bolts lead directly up an overhanging wall with a capping roof to conclude at double anchor rings. There is a squating rest on the pillar halfway up.

FA: Marcus Thomas, 2000

On the left side of the cave. Four bolts lead directly up an overhanging wall with a capping roof to conclude at double anchor rings. There is a squating rest on the pillar halfway up.

FA: Tony Burnell, 2001

Start up U Haul to the first bolt, but move left to another bolt, then blast up the wall past two more bolts on improving holds. Can also be started by bouldering to the first bolt directly. Use the U-Haul anchors.

FA: Marcus Thomas, 2000

Very steep route following a groove and crack line rightward, on the right side of the cave. Technically easy but you need a certain amount of strength. Three bolts and anchor bolts.

FA: tony burnell, 1999

The left side of the arête. Start slightly left, moving right past the second bolt and then up. Five bolts and two anchor rings.

FA: Marcus Thomas, 2000

Lh Traverse. Starts as for Disco Logic and circles leftwards & up wards using top bolt of NN and going left across the top regions of Thorn Bird finishing at top of Mt Pleasant Butcher

FA: Andrew Cockburn, 2003

The right-most route in the cave area, a couple of metres right of Disco Logic. Starts under an overhang on good crimpers. A long reach left of the first bolt leads to sustained climbing all the way to the top. Three bolts, shares Disco Logic's anchors.

FA: Andrew Buist, 2002

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