Routes in New Zealand

Obvious right to left traverse starting from the prominent jug/horn beside the tree at the far right of the outcrop. Rising leftwards traverse, with some small holds beneath the prow. Avoid large jugs above and continue around corner to left end of outcrop to finish

This is a low level right to left variant of the Trackside Traverse problem starting on the same obvious large jug as for Trackside traverse). Heel hook on jug/break for right foot to start and then stay low using the small slopers and crimps to traverse left around the prow.

The obvious easy line up the left side of the prow (jugs at top may need cleaning to top out)

The obvious easy line up the right side of the prow in the middle of the outcrop (jugs at top may need cleaning to top out)

The route has become overgrown, hard to find.

1. To reach the next route head left along the track past some steep faces (good boulder traverse) to a large left leaning dihedral. This is the Dihedral Wall, and is easy to spot from the carpark. Climb easily up to the base of a shallow groove a few feet left of the dihedral. Head up the groove past a fixed nut, traversing left at the top of a ledge to two bolts. A bit run out. From here there are two options for continuing. Pitch

2. From the two bolts head right to the crack (look for an old wooden peg from the original attempt). Step right and follow a series of underclings (1½ cam) and scoops to a right tending ramp (bolt and 3 cam), then up to chain belay. The bolts were added by Guy White, Chris North and Emily Lane in 1996, thinking they were doing a

Instead of belaying at the bolts at the end of the first pitch of The Dihedral, carry on straight up through some flakey ground (crux) to the crack (cams). Follow the crack left around a corner (cams) and up to a piton to belay. To descend, traverse left and down to a small tree and abseil off.

1. An enjoyable, airy climb, and the most direct line on the North Face. Climb the first two pitches of The Dihedral, avoiding the belay station at the end of the first pitch.

2. Starts to the right of belay bolts. Climb the face direct past a bush (bolt). Move up to a ramp (friends) tending left to reach another bolt. Climb through bulges (cams and 3 bolts), then follow crack to reach chain belay next to small manuka bushes.

3. Up a slab left of the belay, through a bulge (large cam and 10 hex), to an easy scramble rightish (bolt) before stepping onto ramp. More bolts protect the crux — an overhang surmounted by bridging, then through a grassy bit to belay on a large rock to left.

1. About 40m further left is a grassy bank. On the left is a slabby rock band, and this is the start. Climb the slab via small ledges and bridging near the top to a large grass covered bank and tree belay on left. Not much pro.

2. A difficult to find and strenuous start on the face below an overhang till a jug can be reached. Climb up to overhang (cams), then traverse left on small holds till the roof can be turned via a jug and small ledge. Head right to grassy ledge and belay off small tree.

3. Head up and right to large mantleshelf ledge (peg). Continue right and up over small sloping ledges (nuts and a bolt) till a tree covered bank is reached. At the next wall step left onto a shallow corner (bolt) and follow up and right to large flax and bolt belay. Can be climbed as two pitches to reduce rope drag.

4. Climb straight up past two bolts then tend left to a bulge with a crack underneath. Step left past the hangered bolt and continue up, moving with difficulty past another bolt. Finish by jamming up a large crack to an airy bolt belay.

5. Named “Numb Nutties Traverse”, head left (past a poor excuse for an expansion bolt from the first ascent) around awkward bulges till a belay stance can be reached.

6. Climb up on easy sloping slabs and cracks to the summit. Although there are a number of bolts, a full rack of natural gear, especially cams, is necessary. Try and pick out the route from the carpark, as the line is not always obvious. Plenty of big wall atmosphere, especially on the higher pitches.

1. Down at the track walk left for a few metres where easy rock can be scrambled up to reach the same grassy bank as for the end of the first pitch of Green Eggs and Ham. Look for a dirty vertical crack. This is the start. Climb the crack to the cave. The original ascent used aid, but the pitch has since been freed. Scramble up and left along the tree covered ledge past steep walls until a line of least resistance becomes apparent.

2. Head up, right and up again through broken ground till the top is reached. Can be broken into two pitches to avoid rope drag. A pleasant enough climb, all on natural pro.

From behind the boulder move up into a steep fingery layback to small ledge (2½ or 3 cam). Good pro (2 cam) on the left as you get out around the arete at two-thirds height and up to belay off trees. This route may extend and complete the 1972 attempt at the same site by Pete Jemmett and Robbie McBirney, labelled Hang It.

Originally two pitches; 1st pitch bolted and 2nd trad.

The climb is now three pitches with bolts all the way to the top.

First bolt on second pitch hanging halfway out of the wall.

Finishes in the saddle at the same place summit track comes up from the south side. Glue in anchors have been installed on the climbers left (east).

Full Moon Fantasy Just left of Zorne’s Lemon, this route meanders a bit, but double ropes will reduce rope drag. Two bolts and slabby moves lead to cam placements and a short, steep wall. Strong moves up then delicate traverse right past two bolts to a rest. Step up and left, find an undercling and clip the bolt under the overhang. The next move is a difficult reach to the horizontal crack. The bolt is used as Aid (22 A1) but the move has been freed( 25). Traverse left on strenuous underclings to a bolt, breathe, then delicately up the corner to a small grassy ledge. Two more bolts and fine moves lead to top and a chain/tree belay.

Down and 20m left of Full Moon Fantasy is a prominent angled groove. Climb the groove and at the top, move left into a shallow depression (crux). Climb the depression to a bulging wall, make a difficult move right round the arete and up to the second bulging wall. Climb the thin crack in the wall to finish at a bolt on Trinity Slaba. Not a lot of pro.

The most popular problem at the corridor. Start matched on the amazing sloper and finish up and left. Drop off.

Start as for Eugene, head out right to the arete and finish as for Secret Rules of Engagement.

Sit start with the right on a bad pinch and the left on the lowest edge. Head straight up the sharp arete. This problem is to the right of Eugene.

Sit start matched on the slopey horn. Go for the arete.

Start matched on the right. Traverse left to Prometheus, finish up the arete.

Climb the tall steep face with some big compression moves. You will find this climb just up the hill from Eugene at an amazing formation to the right of the big tree.

Sit start with a left side pull and a right crimp. Head straight up to the horn. This climb is just up the hill from Eugene.

Sit start matched on the seam and go for the top.

Start as for Green Fingers, make a big move out left and continue traversing around to mantle. Fight the dab.

SDS with the right hand on a crimpy pinch and the left low on the arete.

Start matched on the arete and finish on the blocky jug.

Sit start from the pillar and head through the roof to finish on the blocky jug. Pad the sharp boulder behind you for the finish.

Climb the smooth lip from left to right.

Sit start matched on the sloper to the right of the groove. head through the roof to exit onto the face using diagonal rails.

Sit start matched on the slopey fin. A big move out right to the far lip will set you up for the finish up the arete.

Start as for Freak of Nature but head straight up pinching the fin.

Start as for Freak of Nature, traverse left to right along the sloping lip to a shallow tear drop feature and finish with a hard mantle onto the slab. needs more cleaning.

Start with a high right foot and left hand palm down. Keep just to the right of where the grassy ledge is on the boulder. Head in a straight line up the rock. The grass ledge is out for this climb

Right hand on a an edge under roof and the left on a good edge. Head straight up for the groove.

Direct LH boulder start to Sunshine Daydream - joins original at the scoop

Tricky clip of 2nd bolt, then fingery crux up to the jug next to the 3rd bolt.

Homeowner has installed a small fence blocking access to the base of the climb. Please do not climb this until access rights can be verified and owners permission granted.

Belay off tree

Up the wide crack on the arete. Single bolt anchor.

Easy chimney to first bolt. Thought provoking moves take you right past another bolt and around the corner to a nice arete. Go up the slab past a rusted bolt, a couple good bolts and a peg.

Two options to belay: chains or newer glue-ins a little to the right.

Cool sling thread feature on the arete

Start up the flake for full value (#3)

Left hand variant to Mosquito Monkeys, starts 1m left of the arete on small edges to layaways before rejoining the arete and better holds

Obvious slightly overhanging arete you can see from the road. Nice ear hand hold halfway up climb.

Sit start on slightly overhanging arete.

Easier RH sit start using crack and edge on RH side of arete for first move