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Approach

You can park your car at the carpark next to where the Waitewheta river joins into the Ohinemuri. This is just off Highway 2, 10km from Paeroa when you are driving towards Waihi. Either bushbash up the true left of the Ohinemuri for 1km until you see the cliff or walk along the road towards Waihi for a kilometer and climb down the side of the cycle-path tunnel (grade 10? ;D).

Routes

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Grade Route
1 12
2 13

Start just below the rib on the left of the cliff. You will see a rusty piton right above you. Follow the line of least resistance which will lead you left into a small belay cave with a couple bolts. From there it is straight up to the top. Initially climbed as two pithes but cam be climbed as one without much rope drag.

Beta warning: Bring runners to sling large holes in the rock, other protection is sparse and mainly consists of wires. Rap down using the large pine at the top.

Pitch 1, 20m: As for the standard route to the cave. Pitch 2, 40m: Instead of leaving the cave on the left as for the standard route, exit right. Traverse into a shallow groove and climb this for 5m, Traverse right across a slabby bulge (tree runner), ascend the bulge and the short groove above. At the top of the groove pull out left onto good ledges. This should be the belay ledge for the standard route. May need to be rediscovered and cleaned. This description needs updating.

FA: Robbie McBirney & Jim Sawers, 1972

May need to be rediscovered and cleaned. This description needs updating.

FA: Robbie McBirney & Cliff Smith, 1974

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