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Grade Route

This route routes breaks through the overhang above the pipeline at the last bend before the bridge. Aid the overhang using expansion bolt. Once a second overhang is reached move right. Follow grooves and slabs by the easiest line until you can move left onto easy ledges. These ledges are shared with the Berkeley Square route. Find pegs to descend. This description is old and needs updating.

P1: Aid through same overhang as Nightingale, then move left for 7m until good flake is reached. Gear belay. P2: Climb the flake for 3m then move up and right on slab on top of the second overhang. Continue up awkward groove on right and ledges to the top of Nightingale. P3: Climb out left to the rib and swing round onto slab. Climb the slab keeping left of the flax bush. continue to the highest point on the slab. Descend via Pine trees. This description is old and needs updating.

FA: Cliff Smith & Robbie McBirney, 1973

Starts 20m left of the first 2 routes. It is a loose and unpleasant route starting at an obvious groove system with a hanging iron spike. Climb to the spike then aid for 8m until you a move left on sloping ledges. Build an anchor here or continue by a traverse up and right to join the main groove. Climb the groove to the large overhang and either abseil from here or continue out right and finish up the rib. This description is old and needs updating.

FA: Pete Jemmett & Robbie McBirney, 1971

Starting upstream from the bridge, almost at water level on a blocky buttress. Climb 8m to loose ledges. Head up the groove above past a peg (crux) until you can step right onto the rib. Climb easy ground to the top. Descend back down bushy gully on the right until a sing abseil will reach the ground. This description is old and needs updating.

FA: Geoff Shekell & Glad Emerali, 1972

The obvious high-level rib overlooking the large pool upstream. It is past the old mine workings where the gorge narrows. Cross stream and head up through bush to the right of the rib. Step left for 3m until a small cave is reached. Climb out of the cave and follow a shallow corner past a peg until you can step right to easier ground. Descent via abseil. This description is old and needs updating.

FA: Stu Braithwaite & Cliff Smith, 1972


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