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Description

Some kind of igneous rock, giving the appearance of sideways columnar basalt, 15 minutes walk from the skifield car park.

Approach

Walk east from the Top of the Bruce toward Meads Wall, turn left up the ridge, continuing along a vague track. Stay to the left of the cliff top and walk down the slope to the end of the bluff, turn right and walk back up the valley along the base of the cliff.

Where to stay

Nearest accommodation is at Whakapapa Village.

Routes

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Grade Route

FA: Paul Rogers

1 15
2 17

15m Start below the big round cave in the middle of the wall and climb straight up to it. The second pitch climbs out right and continues upwards right of the vague crack system. No chains or lower offs - big boulders for belay.

FA: Paul Rogers

1 17
2 17

Can be climbed as 1 pitch or 2. Sneak through the step in the overhangs trending left (passed a thread) and once on the face head up and rightish following the line of weakness. Belay in the middle of the shield like wall. Pitch 2 heads up through the weakness finishing with jams as a great finale.

FA: Paul Rogers

Emmensely satisfying climbing up the middle of the styly Orange face and through the bulge slightly left before charging up the face.

FA: Kester Brown & John Palmer

The clean pillar left of the water streak, move right at the top.

FA: Paul Rogers

Climb an easy ramp leftwards then up a flake, traverse right along a ledge to reach the obvious chimney. Sling the chockstone and go for it. Exit left at the top.

FA: Angel Vila & Kathleen Lee, 2004

Activity

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