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Whakapapa Gorge

Seasonality

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F
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A
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J
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S
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D

Description

Andesite, giving the appearance of sideways columnar basalt, 20 minutes walk from the skifield car park.

Approach

Walk east from the Top of the Bruce toward Meads Wall, turn left up the ridge, continuing along a vague track. Stay to the left of the cliff top and walk down the slope to the end of the bluff, turn right and walk back up the valley along the base of the cliff.

Where to stay

Nearest accommodation is at Whakapapa Village.

Routes

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Grade Route

FA: Tim Robertson & Mark Morrison

Routes

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Grade Route
1 17
2 18

FA: Mark Morrison

1 16 15m
2 23 20m

FA: Tim Robertson & Mark Morrison

Start up Ruffer Version or Trenchtown and finish up Authorised Rockers

FA: Paul Rogers

FA: Tom Wilson, 2006

FA: Tom Wilson, 2006

No bolted anchor. Sling large boulders at the top of the crag.

FA: Marcus Thomas, 2006

FA: Paul Rogers

FA: Paul Rogers

1 15
2 17

15m Start below the big round cave in the middle of the wall and climb straight up to it. Has double bolt belay set up in the cave. The second pitch climbs out right and then goes left above the cave, generally right of the vague crack system. Double Bolt belay at top for belaying and lower off.

FA: Paul Rogers

1 20 25m
2 19 20m

Steep and juggy through the first 3 bolts followed by much easier climbing on the slab above. 2nd pitch is trad for 5m from the belay with good medium wires/cams to #1. Pull through another steep section at the first bolt and easily on to the top.

FA: Mark Morrison & Tim Robertson

1 17
2 17

Can be climbed as 1 pitch or 2. Sneak through the step in the overhangs trending left (passed a thread) and once on the face head up and rightish following the line of weakness. Belay in the middle of the shield like wall. Pitch 2 heads up through the weakness finishing with jams as a great finale.

FA: Paul Rogers

FA: Paul Rogers

1 21
2 18
1 26 15m
2 17 25m

2nd Pitch Trad as per Electric Earth

FA: Kester Brown

1 23 15m
2 17 25m

2nd Pitch Trad after DBB.

FA: Kester Brown & Dave Kennedy, 2004

Link up of electric earth into ape to angel. Start as per electric earth then go direct at the 4th bolt into ape to angel. More sustained than either of the other 2 routes and incorporates the cruxes of both, could be 25 but felt 24, however I have climbed all of these routes numerous times this week. I’ll let others decide

FA: Chris Hailey, 2 Jan 2020

Immensely satisfying climbing up the middle of the styly orange face and through the bulge slightly left before charging up the face.

FA: Kester Brown & John Palmer

FA: Cliff Ellery & Kevin Baratt, 2004

Just left of The Full Monty is a route bolted through the over hang.

FA: Cliff Ellery & Kevin Barratt, 2005

FA: John Palmer, 2015

On the opposite side of the Electronomicon block.

The clean pillar left of the water streak, move right at the top.

FA: Paul Rogers

FA: Paul Rogers

Climb on the left of the small cave.

FA: Prajot Sabnis, Jan 2020

Climb straight up into the small cave to the right of Goldie (crux), then directly up the wall. Small cams and wires handy. Double bolt belay.

FA: Tom Wilson & Brigid Borlase, 2007

An extra bolt was added at the bottom when it was rebolted. The old bolts are still protruding with hangers removed.

FA: Bryce Martin, Cliff Ellery & Kevin Barratt, 2005

Start up the slab into the slippery V groove.

FA: Bryce Martin, 2009

Climb an easy ramp leftwards then up a flake, traverse right along a ledge to reach the obvious chimney. Sling the chockstone and go for it. Exit left at the top.

FA: Angel Vila & Kathleen Lee, 2004

FA: Sean Campbell

Climb the steepening slab with a sting in the tail.

FA: Paul Rogers

The easy slab at the right end of the cliff. Rings to lower off.

FA: Annie Beisly, Jan 2019

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