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Lower Tier

41

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Description

Left section has short, snappy climbs in the 18 and 19 grade range. Some of the lower grade climbs have a lot of wear. All the longer climbs down to the right of the crag are of excellent value. All the routes are labelled.

Access issues inherited from Castle Rock

The crag is on private farmland, there is a $10 fee (per person per day) to climb. This fee covers maintenance of anchors, bolts, and other facilities and is collected on an honesty basis - sign in and pay at the toilet(!) building beside the main carpark.

Approach

Follow track from carpark. First cliff you get to is the Lower Tier. Follow it right around to the far right for taller walls, overhangs and chimneys.

Almost all routes have pull cords to easily put up top ropes.

Routes

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Grade Route

FA: Gary Lokum & Christina Walsh, 1988

FA: Richard Bull & Luke Hollister, 1990

FA: Grant Pearson & Gary Lokum, 1987

Overhanging start on good holds to short vertical face.

FA: Richard Bull, 1990

Steep start to vertical face all on small sharp pockets.

FA: Grant Davidson, David Bailey & Graham Charles, 1989

Follow crack straight up. Rock a bit friable.

FA: Grant Davidson & David Bailey, 1989

Tough start up through scoop, then onto tricky vertical face.

FA: Grant Davidson & Graham Charles, 1989

Follow shallow groove up on small holds. Harder than it looks.

FA: Grant Davidson & Graham Charles, 1989

Up thru scoop onto vertical face on good holds. Pumpy.

FA: Grant Davidson & Graham Charles, 1989

Go straight up thru overhang on small holds to face with good holds

FA: Richard Bull, 1990

FA: Graeme Dingle, 1980

FA: Luke Newnham, 1989

vertical face to arete. Clip bolt on left side of arete and carry on up right of arete to higher anchors, or bail up left to easy finish.

FA: Rose Dennis & Tim Goldwin, 1989

Pumpy vertical face on some smaller holds.

Great holds all the way up right side of vertical face.

FA: Hugh Nicholson & Andy Palman, 1989

FA: Reece Hill, 1989

Pockets are too worn now to rate any stars.

FA: Gary Lokum & Christina Walsh, 1988

Good moves right of arete. Thinner than it looks.

FA: Richard Bull & Ian Ross, 1990

Best grade 15 here with good holds over bulges. The tag at the bottom has another name for it now.

Straight up the wall then easier after the lip.

Excellent grade 14 corner climb with good holds and airy climbing.

FA: Graeme Dingle & Bruce Calkin, 1980

Pumpy arete climb

Great holds on steep face.

Great grade 16 corner climb. Crux is getting into the corner.

FA: Grant Davidson, Peter Kettering, Hugh van Noorden & Graham Charles, 1989

Up into the scoop, tackle the overhanging bulge, continue up the blunt arete.

Excellent climb on good holds. Steep face to tricky corner.

FA: Grant Davidson, David Bailey & Peter Kettering, 1989

Excellent Grade 17 arete climb with good holds all the way. Crux is small overhang near the top.

FA: Grant Davidson, Peter Kettering & David Bailey, 1989

Face climb to awkward deep groove. Exit this to anchors.

FA: Grant Davidson & Luke Newnham, 1989

Great climb over jutting overhangs on good holds

FA: Grant Davidson & Graham Charles, 1989

Excellent grade 17. Cruise thru the lower face under the roof to get across left onto the arete.

FA: Graham Charles & Grant Davidson, 1989

Best route on the lower tier. Climb up the right arête, traverse left under the roof, then into the groove. Bridging all the way left is IN for the grade, but even better, punch straight up through the RH overhung start to the groove at more like 20. Finish up the headwall on the right. Hard to rap-clean, lower with a retaining draw or have somebody second it.

FA: Graham Charles & Grant Davidson, 1989

Head straight up arete into groove on the right of roof (crux). Pumpy.

FA: Grant Davidson & Graham Charles, 1989

A grassy start leads to a short wall with an overhanging crux bulge right at the top.

FA: Debbie Hinde, Simon Hent, Christine Miller & Martin Wright, 1997

Up the face and over the bulge at the top, all on good holds.

FA: Debbie Hinde, 1997

FA: David Bailey, Ben Teasdale, Grant Davidson & Graham Charles, 1989

FA: Grant Davidson, Basil Simmons & Jill Novak, 1989

Great wandering climb up face, over arete to left side and up to anchors.

FA: Grant Davidson, Graham Charles & Peter Kettering, 1989

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