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Cabbage Tree Cliff

  • Grade context: AU
  • Photos: 1
9

Access issues inherited from Shawthing Rocks

You will need to be a bit organised to climb at Shawthing Rock… Ring/text at least a day before to book in (not after 9pm please), it’s a working farm; there may be hazards to tell you about.

• Stephen Shaw 07 872 2566, 021-742-988

stephen74667@gmail.com

• Access is a privilege. Not a right.

• Probably closed in the wet winter months.

• No dogs, no shooting. The normal stuff!

• Follow the leave no trace guide- so take all your rubbish (Including biodegradable) out with you.

• Only one group per day.

Approach

The over head power lines are a good land mark to find this cliff. The line are almost above the cliff.

Routes

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Grade Route

Orginally climbed to the very top, but this was no good for top roping, so I lowered the anchor to the bottom of the final ramp. The steep start can be made easier by standing on the blue drum. Bottom stays wet in the winter. The name came about because it took 5 goes at cleaning it. Great for top roping beginners.

FA: Stephen Shaw, 2015

The crux start is more like grade 18. nice easyer climbing follows. A little sting in the tail!

FA: Stephen Shaw, 2015

A steep start on the left side of a wide chimney. Bridge moves provide welcome rests before you launch up the ramp on the left leading to the final crux face. DBC.

NB: As an alternative finish, you can climb right and go up "Got a Job" At about the same grade.

FA: Bryce Martin, 2018

An alternative start to the "on holiday ledge" Climbs the left side of the steep arete. The largest pocket has a birds nest in it, Bryce wanted it left there!

FA: Bryce Martin, 2018

1 16 12m
2 18 10m

My holiday project. Climbs the direct line up the arete to the slab to the belay ledge. TBCMr. Commit to the direct second pitch, surstined. Can be done as one long pitch. Extend or back clean the belay ledge runner/s.

FA: stephen Shaw, 2015

FA: Stephen Shaw, 2015

From the belay ledge climb left (2m) then up the steep wall, crux is between the 3rd and 4th bolts. Using a right leg knee bar to rest the arms is helpful. Cleaned by Nathan Kelly. Bolted by Stephen Shaw.

Set by Nathan Kelly, 2015

FA: Stephen Shaw, 2015

An alternative 2nd pitch. From the ledge of "on holiday" clip the first bolt then follow the right hand line of bolts to the top. Uses the same anchor bolts as Om holiday.

FA: Stephen Shaw, 2018

Balance on finger tips, don't forget your foot work! Nathan cleaned it, Bryce bolted and climbed it.

Set by Nathan Kelly, 2015

FA: Bryce Martin, 2015

Small cams and a sling on the totara tree near the top. DBC

FA: Bryce Martin, 2015

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