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Deer Gully

  • Grade context: AU
5

Access issues inherited from Shawthing Rocks

You will need to be a bit organised to climb at Shawthing Rock… Ring/text at least a day before to book in (not after 9pm please), it’s a working farm; there may be hazards to tell you about.

• Stephen Shaw 07 872 2566, 021-742-988

stephen74667@gmail.com

• Access is a privilege. Not a right.

• Probably closed in the wet winter months.

• No dogs, no shooting. The normal stuff!

• Follow the leave no trace guide- so take all your rubbish (Including biodegradable) out with you.

• Only one group per day.

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Routes

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Grade Route

A slabby arete with two crux over laps (steeper bits). A good bunch of bolts. Double bolt, chain anchor.

FA: Stephen Shaw, Apr 2018

Walk up deer gully on your right hand side is a steep wall with good pockets. If nobody has done it in a while the pocks will be covered with sheet web spider webs. They are harmless but will give you a thrill! Welcome to outside climbing. I dig a ledge for the belayer and the first bolt is the belayers anchor. There are no anchor bolts at the top, climb out and use trees!

FA: Stephen Shaw

This one can be damp at the bottom but the top keeps dryer. If you are the first for a while the pockets will need the pine needles removed before they can be used. So take a brush! it has a nice sequence of moves to gain the slab finish. DBCMr.

FA: Stephen Shaw

Slightly longer then the previous route. A steep start on large holds, then an easier slab, followed by the steep face finish. Lots of bolts take care not to z clip. Same anchor as above.

FA: Stephen Shaw

Walk Down the track from Deer gully, turn left before the overhanging rock, follow this up a another gully (small valley) for 50 or so metres, you will find a long ridge. Climb the easy ridge to a harder finish. DBC anchor.

FA: Stephen Shaw, 2018

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