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Bryce's Cliff

  • Grade context: AU
9
AU

Description

Hidden up in the trees this little cliff offers a great range of climbing styles, over looking the picnic- swimming hole area.

Access issues inherited from Shawthing Rocks

You will need to be a bit organised to climb at Shawthing Rock… Ring/text at least a day before to book in (not after 9pm please), it’s a working farm; there may be hazards to tell you about.

• Stephen Shaw 07 872 2566, 021-742-988

stephen74667@gmail.com

• Access is a privilege. Not a right.

• Probably closed in the wet winter months.

• No dogs, no shooting. The normal stuff!

• Follow the leave no trace guide- so take all your rubbish (Including biodegradable) out with you.

• Only one group per day.

Approach

Easiest access is from the track that goes from Deer gully to the picnic area.

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Routes

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Grade Route

A short easy corner then climb and over lap

FA: Bryce Martin, 2020

FA: Bryce Martin, 2020

A slab climb, is quite hard, I slipped off when a hold broke. Maybe it's a grade harder?

FA: Bryce Martin, 2020

Starts in a corner, crux is the over lap, finish is a slab.

FA: Bryce Martin, 2020

Trad like the name says. Take one #6 cam and three # 5 cams! An over hanging off width crack. DBCMr.

FA: Bryce Martin, 2020

A steep start on an over hanging arete, some balance moves after the 2nd bolt, traverse right a little, clip the 3rd bolt for the next hard bit. Easier slab finish. The rock was so hard drive in bolts did not work, so i learned to glue bolts in! DBC.

FA: stephen Shaw, 2020

Short and steep. Hand jamming essential. If you bridge like I did, its only grade 17, but if you climb it like Bryce did with no bridging then it's grade 19. Take lots of size 3 cams. Shares an anchor with Throw back corner.

FA: Bryce Martin, 2020

A nice wee chimney. Knee pads where handy!DBC.

FA: Bryce Martin, 2020

All bolts glued in. The name is because I took the skin off my knee on a dyno move, which is the crux. I have since learned that there is a place called wounded Knee Creek where a massacre happened in 1890 and approx. 300 People were killed!!!, marking the end of Indian resistance to the incoming white settlers.

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