Routes in Austvågøy for selected grade

Starts just right of the established lines.

From the arete, follow the left trending crack until it ends. Traverse around the arete into excellent jamming in a corner then follow easy angled slab to the summit.

Trend left from Høstdrømmen towards the RF corner system. When this end following a thinner crack system out right to rejoin Høstdrømmen.

The first route on the cliff. Climb the flake then traverse right over a bulge. Nice jamming continues from here to the summit.

Some images here:

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Big cam handy

Start 1-2 meters left of the arete in the black/grey rock. Good protection. First belay on a small ledge beside the big roof over Lys og skygge's first pitch.

The most popular way to repeat these ´Top 50´ lines cherry picks the best protected and nicest climbing.

1. Pitch 1 of Lys og Skygge goes up the ramp. Continue left under the roof to build a more comfortable belay on the arete.

2. Takes the straight crack of Appelcake Arete up to a DBB. Descend via a free-hanging rapp (50m)

1. 30m

2. 30m

3. 30m

4. 30m

3 unique pitches, the last (4) is part of the Coley smoke.

The chimney

The original line up to the fixed Storhylla belay

First pitch of Lost Gandalf, thereafter finish up ´Tromsø ekspressen´ final 2 pitches.

In the guidebook, the first pitches of Gollum and Smeagul are reveresed. Smeagul starts left of the block, going up the tricky zig zag crack.

Beautiful series of cracks. Very easy to protect. Comfortable belay stances and descent on foot.

In the guidebook, the first pitches of Gollum and Smeagul are reveresed. Gollum starts at the top of the block.

As for Gandalf, Gollum or Lost Gandalf then move over to the base of the orange chimney (kamin)

A classic & the first route to dry on the wall

A nice alternative for anyone wanting to climb Gandalf with a pack

1. As for Guns n' Roses (40m)

2. As for Gandalf (35m)

3. As for Gandalf (25m)

Ascends up to Eastern ridge of Kvandalstinden. Marginally nicer to boulder hop your way here from Kalle (aiming for valley between Vågakallen/Kvandalstinden). The route starts up the boulder field on the right of a grassy ledge below a hand crack.

Located in a corner at the top of the grassy gulley on cliff to the right of Trollfestningen. Sarts at the same height as Spurven finishes. There´s a description in the old Ed Webster guidebook; 4 skyhook moves needed on pitch 4.

Beta: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u8dMFhk7d1g

The shallow flared crack furthest to the right. Almost certainly a no star choss-fest

Right hand variation finish to Rom and Cola

Found on the left side of the "butter" boulder, when looking towards the sea. Offwith crack, with atletic start.