Vågakallen Guide

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Philip C

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1. Vågakallen 24 in Crag
2. Index by grade

1. Vågakallen 24 routes in Crag

Summary:

Seasonality

Trad climbing and Ice climbing

Lat / Long: 68.187853, 14.294965

	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
The Ridges
2	Østryggen Some information described in the Ed Webdster guidebook. Route takes 5/6 hours by a competent party. There is a reason it´s not a classic (plenty of loose rock). FA: Arne Randers Heen & Lars Nordby, 1940	4	Trad
3	★★★ Nordryggen A brief description & some images from Bergtagen guides here. GPX track with the approach here Some more images View this post on Instagram A post shared by Innika De Rosa (@innikaderosa) View this post on Instagram A post shared by Emma Linnér (@emmalinner) FA: Arne Randers Heen & Lars Nordby, 1939	4+	Trad 510m, 12
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	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
Storpillaren It´s a long approach/descent with excellent beta available on peakbook. There´s a spring just before the upper pillar approach so no need to carry water in.
5	★★★ Stormpillaren Tackles the full height of the slabs and upper pillar. A big step up from Freya in terms of exposure and difficulty. Reportedly committing; You need to be in solid 8a shape for pitch 12 . Freed in 2017. FFA: Martin Skaar Oslund & Håkon Wegge, 29 Jul 2017	9-	Trad 810m, 18
6	★★★ Freya Tackling the full height of Storpillaren, from the stiff lower slabs into natural corner systems. The line has now been freed a few times & is the obvious next step up from Storpillaren. Some bolted belays make retreats possible. Recent ascent description View this post on Instagram A post shared by Karins Fjelliv FFA: Martin Skaar Oslund & Thomas Meling, 2015	8 PROT:R - X	Trad 810m, 20
7	Upper Wall Approach	3	Trad
8	★★★ The Corner Kick The King Line of the great pillar. With big exposure & stacked pitches, it´s a worthy destination route for those strong enough. To descend, continue up the final pitches (9.5-16) of Storpillaren Freed in 2015. There´s a Topo & description on Planet Mountain FFA: Martin Skaar Oslund, 2015	9- PROT:R - X	Trad 380m, 10
9	★ Genus Locy Some aesthetic looking pitches that are rumoured to climb not quite as nice as the other lines here. FFA: Martin Skaar Oslund, 2015	9 PROT:R	Trad 230m, 5
10	★★★ Storpillaren Up the easy groove to a belay next to the large block Traverse left then follow the fingers and hands crack system up to the base of the LF roof/corner. This pitch is nails & should be broken into 2 rope lengths to preserve your small gear & prevent rope drag. Delicately traverse left as far as possible before a tricky mantle. Continue up the steep and hard finger crack to a good ledge. An amazing pitch. Climb the remaining thin finger crack. A short section of easier but loose stuff takes you up to a giant ledge. The steep & clean diagonal crack. Belay on a tiny ledge after the chimney. Another great pitch. Short OW off the belay then take the LF corner up to a sloping ledge with a fixed piton belay. Yet another great pitch. Climb the chimney, exiting out via the thin ramp to your right & up to a small stance. The great pitch vibes continue. Up the corner, traversing out left under the roof then easy climbing up the groove to a big ledge on the left with some loose rock. Sustained! Take the left groove up for 20m then trend left again & up the next groove to a small ledge with a single piton. Easy climbing left up the face then scrambling right up the groove to small stance Continue up the groove then it´s more scrambling right to another large ledge. Step down right, then up the next easy groove to an even bigger ledge Steep face climbing on jugs up the left side of the wall. Continue scrambling along the right side of the ridge up to the ridge crest Down the ridge to a fixed 15m abseil. Continue across the crest to another fixed anchor. The original line tackles the steep slab via the right side of the arête. The crux is do not fall climbing. It´s possible to avoid this pitch by abseiling down 20m right then up 2 pitches of gross but safer N5 scrambling (the grassy walk of shame). There´s also a third option; A chimney up from the same abseil point which takes you to the standard P16 belay (bit loose & mossy but possible to get some pro, N5+). Take left side of the pinnacle. A final section of loose & grassy stuff leads to the summit. > A short with Katie Lambert & Caroline George on Storpillaren Some images here- View this post on Instagram A post shared by Ada Margrethe Dranger (@adadranger) View this post on Instagram A post shared by Ingrid Velken Kverneland (@ingridvelken) FFA: Odd-Roar Wiik, Arild Meyer & Robert Caspersen, 2001	7 PROT:R - X	Trad 620m, 17
11	Søring variant	6+ AID:A1	Trad
Myggapillaren The clean looking left pillar on the NE face of Vågakallen. These routes are accessed via the Paradiset path & the trail along the West shore of Kallevatnet (same one used for access ot Storpillaren). Scramble up to the base (some bushwhacking required). Descent by rapping (30,55,60,60 & 60m)
13	Wee Beastie	6 PROT:R	Trad 160m, 4
14	★★ Mygga FA: Bo Andersen & Sverre Søgaard, 1976	5+ PROT:R	Trad 290m, 9
15	★★★ The midnight butterfly A top50 line in the guidebook. Reports from parties repeating indicate it´s a bit of an adventure route. FA: Tapio Alhonsuo & Mira Alhonsuo, 2014	6+ PROT:R	Trad 270m, 7
The Ice Many of the lines are described by Mårten Blixt in the Lofoten Alpin article of Tidsskrift for Norsk Alpinklatring 2014. Scroll through Lofoten Tindeklubb`s facebook group for some low resloution images
17	Nordryggen Vinterrute An often eyed, rarely climbed & highly prized line with difficulty varying wildly depending on conditions. Can be serious. The approach & descent exposes you to avalanche terrain. For a description and background on the routes history, see 2013 edition Tidsskrift for Norsk Alpinklatring, low resolution image here. There´s also a trip report FA: Arild Meyer & et al		Ice
18	Bullock-Turner-Bensen 1 FA: 2011		Ice
19	Bullock-Turner-Bensen 2 FA: 2011		Ice
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	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
20	Night Crosses the Crown A route description and topo is available on the AAC here FA: Kurt Hicks & Chris Wright, 2015	WI4+ M6 PROT:R	Ice 750m, 18
21	The Scottish Route FA: Benson & Robertson, 2001	M7	Ice 800m, 15
22	Invasion in the Land of Vikings A description of this climb can be found on the AAC FA: David Jonglez & et al, 2004	WI5 M6	Ice 650m
23	Sætherruta FA: 2012		Ice
24	Storrenna FA: Arild Meyer, Odd-Roar Wiik & Kjell Skog, 1976		Ice
25	Årtun-Haley Some description and images FA: Bjørn-Eivind Årtun & Colin Haley, 2011		Ice
26	Meyer-Skog FA: Arild Meyer & Kjell Skog, 1976		Ice
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	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
27	Mieux vaut tard que jamais / Better late than never FA: 2004	WI4 M6	Ice 650m
28	Glass Uhr FA: 2004	M5	Ice 650m

2. Index by grade

Grade	Stars	Name	Style
3		Upper Wall Approach	Trad
4		Østryggen	Trad
4+	★★★	Nordryggen	Trad 510m, 12
5+ R	★★	Mygga	Trad 290m, 9
M5		Glass Uhr	Ice 650m
6 R		Wee Beastie	Trad 160m, 4
6+ A1		Søring variant	Trad
6+ R	★★★	The midnight butterfly	Trad 270m, 7
WI4 M6		Mieux vaut tard que jamais	Ice 650m
WI4+ M6 R		Night Crosses the Crown	Ice 750m, 18
WI5 M6		Invasion in the Land of Vikings	Ice 650m
7 R - X	★★★	Storpillaren	Trad 620m, 17
M7		The Scottish Route	Ice 800m, 15
8 R - X	★★★	Freya	Trad 810m, 20
9-	★★★	Stormpillaren	Trad 810m, 18
9- R - X	★★★	The Corner Kick	Trad 380m, 10
9 R	★	Genus Locy	Trad 230m, 5
?		Bullock-Turner-Bensen 1	Ice
		Bullock-Turner-Bensen 2	Ice
		Meyer-Skog	Ice
		Nordryggen Vinterrute	Ice
		Storrenna	Ice
		Sætherruta	Ice
		Årtun-Haley	Ice

Vågakallen Guide

Warning

Contributors

Table of contents

1. Vågakallen 24 routes in Crag

The Ridges

Storpillaren

Myggapillaren

The Ice

2. Index by grade