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Route in Vågakallen for selected grade

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Grade Route Gear style Popularity
7 PROT:R - X Storpillaren
1 5 45m
2 6- 30m
3 7- 25m
4 7- 15m
5 7 40m
6 6 20m
7 7- 35m
8 6+ 20m
9 6- 40m
10 5 55m
11 5 50m
12 4 45m
13 4 50m
14 3 40m
15 2 30m
16 6- R - X 35m
17 5 45m
  1. Up the easy groove to a belay next to the large block

  2. Traverse left then follow the fingers and hands crack system up to the base of the LF roof/corner.

  3. This pitch is nails & should be broken into 2 rope lengths to preserve your small gear & prevent rope drag. Delicately traverse left as far as possible before a tricky mantle. Continue up the steep and hard finger crack to a good ledge. An amazing pitch.

  4. Climb the remaining thin finger crack. A short section of easier but loose stuff takes you up to a giant ledge.

  5. The steep & clean diagonal crack. Belay on a tiny ledge after the chimney. Another great pitch.

  6. Short OW off the belay then take the LF corner up to a sloping ledge with a fixed piton belay. Yet another great pitch.

  7. Climb the chimney, exiting out via the thin ramp to your right & up to a small stance. The great pitch vibes continue.

  8. Up the corner, traversing out left under the roof then easy climbing up the groove to a big ledge on the left with some loose rock. Sustained!

  9. Take the left groove up for 20m then trend left again & up the next groove to a small ledge with a single piton.

  10. Easy climbing left up the face then scrambling right up the groove to small stance

  11. Continue up the groove then it´s more scrambling right to another large ledge.

  12. Step down right, then up the next easy groove to an even bigger ledge

  13. Steep face climbing on jugs up the left side of the wall.

  14. Continue scrambling along the right side of the ridge up to the ridge crest

  15. Down the ridge to a fixed 15m abseil. Continue across the crest to another fixed anchor.

  16. The original line tackles the steep slab via the right side of the arête. The crux is do not fall climbing. It´s possible to avoid this pitch by abseiling down 20m right then up 2 pitches of gross but safer N5 scrambling (the grassy walk of shame). There´s also a third option; A chimney up from the same abseil point which takes you to the standard P16 belay (bit loose & mossy but possible to get some pro, N5+).

  17. Take left side of the pinnacle. A final section of loose & grassy stuff leads to the summit.

> A short with Katie Lambert & Caroline George on Storpillaren

Some images here-

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FFA: Odd-Roar Wiik, Arild Meyer & Robert Caspersen, 2001

Trad 620m, 17

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