Routes in Nordland for selected grade

Description and topo available

Descent follows the SE ridge in the direction of Vinstad.

Perhaps the most popular route to the summit

A topo & some images available here

Climb the arete, sustained climbing to the big pocket to the right. Then one more long move to the final holds.

Head up the finger crack on the arete then jam & stem in the dihedral to the summit

Gear beta: Standard Lofoten rack plus a #4

1. A short wide crack starts things off (crux) from here it’s easy slabs to a belay on grassy ledge

2. Trend right then up a thin finger crack. Continue up & over small bulge to a small stance

3. Layback up & left to a good ledge

4. Follow the crack system up then slightly right

5. More of the same

6. More easy climbing. Trend right when the large slab becomes visible.

7. Climb the left of the 2 cracks on the arête with tricky moves initially over the bulge into easier climbing in the RF corner. From here there’s a short wide section before the easy climbing returns.

8. Continue up to the big grassy ledge below the final summit block

9. Excellent pitch in a RF corner

10. Climb the hand crack then trend right to a decent stance.

11. Straight forward climbing leads to just below the summit. It’s another 10m up the ramp then right to the summit slab from here (N3)

Images here:

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The chimney

One of the best lines here. Pitch 1 goes just right of Gandalf & up the corner with a tree before trending right & up the arete to a large belay ledge. Pitch 2 heads right & then up the short & steep hand crack (crux) to a ledge. The final pitch takes gradually easing finger cracks through the orange rock to the summit.

Pitch 3 image-

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The most popular route up the cliff. Has some nice climbing

This tackles the left leaning crack system which begins on the wall to the right of the arete

1. Climb the grassy ramp to a ledge.

2. Follow the crack system up & left to small ledge.

Beta: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u8dMFhk7d1g

Breaks right from Gorilla into a OW finish. Big cam nice to have (#4)

Short, mossy & with a bonus loose flake

Traverse across the slab to reach better pro in the corner