Routes in Northern Norway for selected grade

On the East Face of Stamprevtinden South Peak. There´s a topo here and full trip report here.

Descent:

follow the south ridge until the Helvetestinden pass and down a gully to the Kirkefjord

Topo here. Be prepared to run it out at the grade for sections on the 2/3 crux pitches. Some big cams nice to have for the rest of the climb. A description and some images of the route can be found here

There are topos here and here. The first ascentionists recommend taking a #6 to protect the pitch 5 off width.

A description and some images of the route can be found here

Topo here.

One of the best routes out West with stacked climbing on good rock. Most bolts have been recently re-equipped.

1. Easy scrambling up the leaning pillar.

2. Trends gently right up middle of slab to a small ledge. Bit runout in places but safe.

3. Some more of the same slab off the belay, passing a bolt (no hanger) to a finger crack. Gear belay (bolt there; Has no hanger).

4. The crux of the route. 5 bolts protect a powerful sequence (can be done A0) into some technical slab work. Semi hanging belay with one bolt in a corner below the perfect splitter.

5. Climb the splitter to a DBB (some signs of corrosion on these bolts).

6. Traverse out right into an akward, slightly vegetated crack. Traverse left when you pass the roof via slabs with underclings to access the next crack system. Climb up this to a DBB. It may be worth splitting this pitch in 2.

7. Continue up the crack. When this ends a bolt protects moves left into the next system & up to another DBB.

8. Climb the remaining crack system to a DBB under the roof.

9. Underclings right under the roof then up the corner. A low angled ramp leads up to a DBB.

10. Easy scrambling up the corner to the base of the chimney.

11. Chimney challenge then grassy slopes up to the clean looking flakes.

12. Climb the flakes then scramble left to belay at the base of the large detached flake.

13. Squirm your way up then a couple of face climbing moves to gain LF corner. Follow this up to a big ledge with a single bolt. A bit vegetated.

14. Take the handcrack in the corner then scramble to the top.

Some images here-

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SDS

A boulder problem start with easier climbing closer to the chains. May be tough for the grade?

The caves classic easy line.

Beta

The extension to Ildvann.

The P2 extension to Forselv rederi.

La Vida Joika follows the most obvious crack system from the bottom to the top of the upper Lyngvaer wall. The route is characterized by sustained physical movement on good quality rock much steeper than typical Lofoten routes and very good protection. 2 steep trad approach pitches lead to the exposed bolted crux pitch.

1. Technical stemming pitch, small, good gear. Bolted belay. Scramble left to base of P2

2. The enduro pitch. Bolted belay on top of pillar (this pitch is recommended as one pitch ledge to ledge but can be split at the intermediate rap anchor, hanging belay). 2 x #4 plus a #5 & #6 are nice to have.

3. Technical slab work up the ramp to the top of the wall. Bring micro cams (green & purple C3) for after the last bolt. Bolted belay

Rap the route with 1 60m rope in 4 rappels.

NB- Recommended not to belay higher than top of Pitch 2 as the belay on top of the pillar is amazing and the lead climber can be easily lowered back to the belay instead of belaying on top.

Starts 20m up from the Pizatyven descent. Up the open corner, then straight through the 45 deg roof.