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Mastodon All Sport climbing 13 routes in cliff

  • Grade context: US
  • Photos: 1
  • Ascents: 8
13
YDS
5.75.85.95.10a5.10c5.11a5.11c5.12a5.12c5.13a

Seasonality

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D

Description

Mastodon is the name of the cliff line that overlooks D-12. The two most obvious features are the central corner crack that is taken by Hana (6c+) and the prow that is taken by Retribution (7b+).

WARNING: Locals make off with the first bolts of some easier routes in this area. Please make sure to check if the bolt is there or not before you climb so you can make a safety call.

There are plenty of opportunities to add more lines on mastodon ( The wall stretches for quite a ways) and rock neighboring mastodon. There is an easy-ish hike to get to the top of the rock from the left most side.

Approach

From D-12/3 follow the service road north towards Mastadon. Park where the road meets the creek line at the mouth of the valley. Follow the walking track uphill to the crag. 40 minutes walk time.

Ethic inherited from Margallah Hills

Sport climbing and lower to clean. Please report any damaged fixed gear here!

History

History timeline chart

Developed by Junya Matsuura in 2017

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Routes

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1
FR:7a ★ Wicked Butterfly Sport 20m, 10

The central line on the western face of Mastadon.

FA: J. Matsuura, 2017

2
FR:7a+ ★★ Sayonara Sport 13m

Climb up to the chains right before the overhang. Dedicated to Junya Matsuura. Thank you for everything.

FA: Junya Matsuura

3
FR:7c+ ★★ Junya's Project Extension SportProject 20m, 12

The steep wall left of Hana (Flower). The project is still awaiting an FA.

Set: J. Matsuura

4
FR:6a+ Sidestep Sport 15m, 6

Start as for Hana (Flower) before traversing left to the midway chains on Junya's Project.

FA: J. Matsuura, 2018

5
FR:6c+ ★★ Hana / Flower Sport 20m, 10

The central crack line.

FA: J. Matsuura, 2017

6
FR:7b+ ★★ Retribution on April 1. Sport 20m, 8

The blunt prow immediately to the right of Hana. Shares lower off with Hana.

FA: J. Matsuura, 2017

7
{FR} 6b+ Last Light Sport 20m, 8

Takes the wall to the left of the gully that marks the right hand end of the main cliff.

FA: J. Matsuura, 2018

8
FR:7b Pending Name 2 SportProject

Still awaiting a FA. Send it and name it.

Set: giovanni

9
{FR} 6c ★★ Psychological Hurdle Sport 20m

Set: giovanni

10
{FR} 4c ★ Goat Poetry Sport 8m

Short climb with the hardest move just before the anchors. Great for learning lead climbing and the easiest route on the crag.

Set: giovanni

11
{FR} 7b ★★★ Golden Sun Sport 22m

Set: giovanni

12
FR:7a ★★★ Elephant Sport 22m

One of the best 7a climbs you can find in Pakistan. Super interesting moves along great features, with the crux near a small runnout near the top that makes it super spicy. Just watch the rope going behind your feet and tell your belayer to give you a nice dynamic catch!

FA: giovanni

13
FR:6b Señoreti Sport 20m

Newest route in the crag. Still super chossy so climb with caution. Belayer 100% has to wear a helmet.

Set: Fahad Mahmood & Faad

FA: Lennart Gießing, Feb 2022

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7a ★★★ Elephant

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Arham Amer at Mastodon - DJI_0006_1.JPG

Tue 25 Apr
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