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Summary

Huge alpine granite monolith at 5325m.

Approach

A two hour hike from laguna paron. Set a tent in the flat area before the moraine or bivy closer to the rock. All routes are very long, prepare for a long day or for a bivy on the wall at los flores ledge.

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Routes

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Grade Route

FA: Bohorquez & Vicente, 1988

FA: de la Cal, Madrid, Olivera & Polanco, 1987

FA: Bole & Karo, 2000

A variant that links the start of the 1985 Route with Cruz Del Sur.

The original and most commonly climbed route on la esfinge. One very long day, or two short days climbing. A good ledge facilitates the two day ascent.

This route was originally graded 6c+, though consensus has downgraded it to 6b with an R rating for poor protection on easier ground in some of the upper pitches

FA: Bohorquez & Garcia, 1985

FFA: Fernandez, Mejia & Rodriguez, 1997

FA: Offenbacher & Davis, 2000

A three-pitch variation to avoid an A3 section of 'Riddle of the Cordillera Blanca'.

FFA: Josh Wharton & Brian McMahon, 2005

FA: Cruces, 2000

FA: Cruaud, Devernay, Peyronnard & Plaze, 1999

FA: Bigger & Regan, 2000

FFA: Houlding & Whittaker, 2000

FA: Fernandez & Lacueva, 2000

FA: Dyer & Hammond, 2000

FA: Ortuño & Salvador, 1996

FA: Miyamoto & Sharratt, 2000

FA: Dolecki & Isaac, 1999

FFA: Hammond & Sellers, 2000

Standard descent route

FA: Huber, Koch & Schmidt, 1955

Climbs the rappel route that descends from the col.

20 pitches or so with 2 pitches of 5.11 or more if you end up off route

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