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Description

The prominent cliff outcrop on the left, as you walk in from Dairy Farm Road. Popular with beginners, due to the easy grades and obvious lines.

Some of routes were originally established as trad climbs, but have since been retro-bolted.

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Routes

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1
4b YDS:5.5 ★ The Gully Trad 14m

Stay left, up the gully. A little bit overgrown,.

FA: Lawrence Lee & Anthony Seah, 1987

2
5a YDS:5.7 ★ Direct Sport 15m, 7

Can be climbed with slight variations.

FA: Lawrence Lee & Anthony Seah, 1987

3
5a YDS:5.8 ★ Jam Bang Trad 15m

Climb the hand-crack, joins Lucky Draw Dihedral at the top, where it shares an anchor.

FA: Lawrence Lee & Hugh McLean, 1988

4
5a YDS:5.8 ★ Lucky Draw Dihedral Trad 15m

First move off the ground is reachy and likely the crux of the climb. Lots of rests on the route to allow you to place protection. Shares an anchor with Jam Bang.

FA: Lawrence Lee & Hugh McLean, 1988

5
6b ★ Orange Juice Trad 15m

To the right of lucky draw dihedral. Runs up the steps then left onto the face and follows the crack in the middle of the vertical face and the edge of the arête to the anchor. Requires micro-cams or ball-nuts to protect the crux move.

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