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Access issues inherited from King's Kloof

On arrival at the security gate, state that you are going climbing. The guard will then ask you to fill in the register/indemnity and pay R30 per person. Otherwise please book in with Derek Schneider, the manager of the Rocky Valley camp (083 326 8618). He lives in the house on the left nearest the bridge.

For more information on routes, access and permits please see the following websites:

Mountain Club of South Africa (MCSA) Look at “Who we are” for the different sections of the MCSA

Mountain Club of South Africa – Johannesburg Section website Click on “Access and Properties” for more information Click on “Contact” to get in touch with the MCSA for more information.

ClimbZA website Welcome to the largest & most comprehensive online database of Southern African climbing information. A forum site to find climbing partners or to find out more about different climbing areas and climbs.


From the parking area walk upstream. Follow the path upstream just after crossing the bridge.

Ethic inherited from King's Kloof

Access has been granted by the two religious organisations who own the land under the agreement that all the crag rules below are followed and that all new routes are given names with respectful christian connotations.

Job 1:21. The Lord giveth, the Lord taketh away. Please heed the following:

  • No alcohol
  • Take home all litter and refuse (including fruit peels and cigarette butts)
  • No destruction of vegetation
  • No interference with any animals
  • No soap or detergents or chemicals allowed in or near the river
  • No loud music
  • No graffiti or defacing of rocks
  • Toilet activities must be more than 60m from streams with no trace visible afterwards. Carry out toilet paper. (Just use the bathrooms near the parking).
  • Be polite an courteous to all staff and management.
  • Only climbing allowed, no other activities permitted including fishing, quad bikes, motor bikes, hunting.


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Grade Route

FA: Evan Marget & sMargetts, Oct 2012

Starts on rock mound, come off on lead and you will land in tree.


Variation (19): Keep to the right and avoid the crux.

Up the main dark crack.

Straight up the main crack using side pulls.

Traverse left under roof on easy rock, then through overhang and tops out left.

First ascent by Eke Zsolt from Hungary on Easter 2011.

FA: Eke Zsolt, 2011

Up the corner then break through the big roofs.

FA: Neil Margetts, Jul 2012

Set by Pierre Carter, 2011

FA: Dylan Vogt, Jan 2012

Hard start into real easy climbing.

FA: Neil Margetts

Set by David Tapp, Nov 2011

Crosses over Moses In The Bulrushes.

Set by David Tapp, Nov 2011

Climb moves diagonally left up a decent ledge. Best to clean on top rope since the route runs diagonally left.

FA: Neil Margetts, Jun 2011

Fun face climb.

FA: Pierre Joubert, 2011

Pulls through little overhang onto face above. Technical and fun.

FA: Neil Margetts, 2011

Crux is at the start, great warm up climb.

FA: Neil Margetts, 2011

Last route on the right when facing the crag. On angle, shares chains with 15 next door. Best to clean on top rope since the climb goes diagonally left.

FA: Pierre Joubert, 2011


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