Help

Boulder Kloof

  • Grade context: SA
  • Ascents: 18

Access: COVID-19: Lockdown

South Africa has ordered a national lockdown from March 27.

See warning details and discuss

Created 6 weeks ago

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Summary

A Small kloof branching off Lower Tonquani Kloof

Access issues

For more information on routes, access and permits please see the following websites:

Mountain Club of South Africa (MCSA) http://www.mcsa.org.za/ Look at “Who we are” for the different sections of the MCSA

Mountain Club of South Africa – Johannesburg Section website https://mcsajohannesburg.org/ Click on “Access and Properties” for more information Click on “Contact” to get in touch with the MCSA for more information.

ClimbZA website http://www.climbing.co.za/wiki/South_African_Climbing_Wiki Welcome to the largest & most comprehensive online database of Southern African climbing information.

http://www.climbing.co.za/forum/ A forum site to find climbing partners or to find out more about different climbing areas and climbs.

Approach

Accessible via Lower Tonquani or crossing from Cederberg

Ethic inherited from Tonquani-Cedarberg Complex

No fire allowed as per “No Fires in Magaliesberg Policy”. There is currently a moratorium on bolting in Magaliesberg.

Some content has been provided under license from: © MCSA (MCSA)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit Convert grades
Grade Route

Climbs on the True Right of the Kloof

This climb ascends a prominent arete 300m upstream from the upper descent gully into Boulder Kloof. The route is situated just downstream of a deep pool. A small free standing pinnacle lies just downstream of the start. Scramble up to the start.

  1. 25m 11 Climb the arete passing a small overhang about two thirds up.

FA: A. Mercer, D. Margetts & M. Seegers, 1988

The climb ascends the face downstream of SUNDAY STROLLER. A prominent off-width crack marks the upper section of the climb.

  1. 20m 17 Climb the face up to an overhang. Move right to below an off-width crack. Ascend the crack and continue on easier rock to top of crag.

FA: M. Seegers, D. Margetts & A. Mercer, 1988

This climb ascends the thin face 1m right of ALABASTER

  1. 23m 20 Climb the thin face 1m right of ALABASTER.

FA: D. Margetts, A. Mercer, M. Seegers, T. Holt & D. Hartley, 1988

Situated 2m right of STYX.

  1. 23m 19 Climb the overhang and continue up the face to the top of the crag.

This climb is situated about 100m upstream of the upper descent gully into Boulder Kloof. It is characterized by a smooth sloping slab with an overhang halfway up the slab and a crack running up the top section.

  1. 23m 18 Climb directly up the thin face on the left of the corner, towards the overhang. Break through the overhang to below a crack. Ascend the crack above the overhang to the top of the crag.

Note: Thin climbing with adequate protection using small wires.

FA: M. Seegers, T. Truter, D. Margetts & A. Mercer, 1988

To the right of the SLIPSTREAM / EASY LIVING buttress there is a gully which can be used as a descent (short abseil). On the right of this gully is a buttress and right again is broken ground. Start at the lowest point of the buttress next to a short crack leading to a short wall.

  1. 35m 17 Climb crack, step left, climb wall by recess (thin), past sapling to a large ledge with a large block (possible stance). From the top of the block continue upwards on front of buttress to hand jam crack splitting a bulge. Pull over rightward to reach a small ledge, and climb onto large flat topped block. Step up onto wall behind block, moving left into overhanging crack and exit to belay ledge by an unusual move.

FA: N. Cleaver & R. Cleaver, 1981

1 14 23m
2 18 16m

Just upstream of the SLIPSTREAM buttress is an abseil descent gully. 9m upstream of this, the cliff turns back towards the stream bed. The route ascends the open book so formed and has as objective, the clean, crisp, open book visible high up.

  1. 23m 14 Climb the groove pulling over the large chockstone. Amble up the gully and pull over the second block to a large comfortable ledge at the base of the clean steep open book with finger crack in corner.

  2. 16m 18 Take off with difficulty and layback, stem, jam up the crack and through the bulge above. Exit right at top of book.

Notes: Steep in places. Protection is good. The second pitch, although short, is excellent clean climbing.

FA: T.P. Willmot, P.J. Duggan, at a crack in wall leading to perched block. 1. 37m 15 Climb crack past block, move diagonally left to SLIPSTREAM. Almost immediately traverse right onto nose of buttress by a sharp foot rail. Up wall to loose blocks & step right, 1992

Start upstream of Slipstream around the corner in a crack below a block perched on the ledge a few meters above.

  1. 37m (15) Climb crack and left around block. Move diagonally left to Slipstream. Almost immediately traverse right onto nose of buttress by a sharp foot rail and then up the wall to stacked blocks. From the blocks climb up right of the arête and up to ledge just below small overhang. Below the overhang is a chossy rail with a tree root, Slipstream goes left from here. Go around the right and pull through overhang onto ramp with chickenheads and continue straight up to second overhang. Step left and climb the break to top of pinnacle.

FA: N. Cleaver & R. Cleaver, 1981

Start at the base of the overhanging red buttress about 15m upstream of the meetspot. If approaching from the top end of the kloof, this is the first climbable rock to reach the streambed on the true right hand side. The route follows the corner just to the right of a thin arete.

  1. 35m 18 Ascend in corner on right hand side of prominent rib for 5m until forced out right by overhang (2m 18). Stand on narrow rail on right and bridge up until able to swing right into resting place (5m 17). Climb up to layback crack and either layback (3m) to ledge or layback until able to move right and then up to ledge. From ledge swing left and then mantleshelf. Follow crack on good holds to summit.

Note: Has a variety of technical moves on good rock and is well protected.

Variation:

Starting off the block 3 meters right of the original, corner start to SLIPSTREAM, below the blunt arete.

  1. 8m 18 Using the lay-away crack to the right of the arete, get established on the arete. Then proceed on the left-hand side of the arete, to join the original line on the blocky ledge. Good gear in rails. Fun.

FA: J. Brown, 1978

This route is a SLIPSTREAM eliminate.

  1. 30m 23 Starts as for SLIPSTREAM. Through the crux of SLIPSTREAM and where SLIPSTREAM moves right, climb the awkward corner as for RHYTHM OF YOUTH. Reach up and clip the pegs above the bridge of the "nose" (hence the name). Surmount the nose (crux) and climb directly up the steep wall exiting slightly left and onto the ledge.

Note: Although only the second part of the route is new, the new section offers powerful moves in a fairly "airy" position on excellent rock.

FA: Peter Lazarus, 1989

Starts up SLIPSTREAM.

  1. 35m 27 Just after the crux of SLIPSTREAM, SLIPSTREAM avoids the awkward corner and moves right. RHYTHM OF YOUTH moves into this corner and up to the roof. Traverse left to the arete and then diagonally up left to a ledge. From the ledge move diagonally up right and up to a steep but fairly easy crack to another ledge. Traverse left 3m to the very steep white crack (noticeable from the ground). Climb the crack and make hard moves through the roof and onto the short wall above. Climb this and exit onto the ledge with rap tree.

Note: Wild climbing on superb rock, with truck catching runners. Two friend 1.5's will make the crux more appealing.

FA: Peter Lazarus, 1989

The climb takes the arete leading to the top of the overhanging red buttress about 15m upstream of the Boulder Kloof meet point. Start midway between IPSO FACTO and SLIPSTREAM.

  1. 30m 20 Climb the recess and, before reaching the birdshit streaked rock, traverse right across a slab to the base of the final orange arete. Climb steeply to the top.

Note: For more exciting climbing, follow the arete from ground level i.e. start 1m to the left of SLIPSTREAM.

FA: K.M. Smith & M. Smith, 1984

The route is situated on a very impressive buttress about 20m upstream of COMANICI. It follows a corner, then chimney between IPSO FACTO and THE DAMAGE DONE.

  1. 30m 19 Climb the corner to a roof, move 1m right and enter the chimney above. Climb up to huge chockstone before exiting on the left.

FA: George Mallory & C. Lesley-Smith, 1984

Follows the recess running the height of the cliff between the sloping grey arete and the overhanging red buttress upstream of the Boulder Kloof campsite. Start about 3m to the right of PLANXTY.

  1. 30m 15 Climb the recess for about 15m, step right, and continue up the right hand, narrow, open book. Pull through onto a blocky ledge and climb the final corner to the top.

FA: K.M. Smith & M. Smith, 1984

Start at base of wall forming right hand side of the prominent grey arete a few metres upstream of the Boulder Kloof Campsite.

  1. 35m 19 Climb centre of wall to reach arete just below small overhang (existing bolt runner). Continue up arete and slab until possible to move left to good resting ledge. Better holds lead to second overhang. Move awkwardly left around this and right around final overhang and up short wall to large platform. Scramble up easy rock to top.

FA: P. Douglas & N. Cleaver, 1981

Takes the roof that PLANXTY circumnavigates and the slab above.

  1. 35m 21 Start at the right hand side of the PLANXTY slab 1m left of IPSO FACTO. Climb up to roof via subsidiary corner, pull through and trend left to join PLANXTY as it enters final roofs. Finish as for PLANXTY.

Note: This route was initially done by M. Townsend during 1988, but was never written up.

FA: S. Kelsey, M. Loewe & S. Marsland, 1990

1 20 25m
2 13 15m

Start as per Free World

FA: Steven Mallory & George Mallory, 1983

1 19 22m
2 9 15m

4m right of COMANICI in a prominent V-groove in the overhangs. Start at the crack in the lower slabs behind the tree.

  1. 22m 19 Climb crack and V-groove until stopped by the over-hang. Hand-traverse left (peg runner) to small foothold by aloe. Pull into groove and continue for a few metres until a step right gives a good stance.

  2. 15m 9 Climb groove and then the broken ground above.

FA: N. Cleaver & R. Cleaver, 1981

1 15 20m
2 8 15m

The climb is situated approximately 150-200m up Boulder Kloof, directly above the Boulder Kloof meet spot. The feature is a prominent 3m roof situated about 15m up, above steep slabs.

  1. 20m 15,A2 Climb directly up to the corner beneath the roof where there is a foothold stance (15). Reach far over to the right to the first fixed piton. A simple series of about 8 aid moves on fixed pitons leads around the overhang to a small stance.

  2. 15m 8 Follow the obvious line to the top of the cliff.

Note:

  1. All aid used to be in place and consists of short pins placed into pre-drilled holes.

  2. One of the pins has fallen out – take a cheat stick if you are short.

FA: Unknown German climber, 1976

1 7 44m
2 7 8m

Situated 10m downstream of COMANICI a direct clean route is available, avoiding grade 5 vegetated rock on the left and, higher up, on the right.

  1. 44m 7 Climb straight up face (or on corner) for full rope length.

  2. 8m 7 Scramble out straight up (5) or more enjoyably, walk 20m right behind a stubby pinnacle and climb short chimney.

Note: The climb provides a pleasant beginners route on clean rock with reasonable exposure for the grade of climbing. Spectacular views of the A2 section of COMANICI can be obtained from the final pitch, so take your camera.

FA: A. Heher, B. Riley & W. Gousen, 1984

Start 40m downstream of the Boulder Kloof meet spot. Start below a prominent right-angled open book with a tree in it about 15m above the start.

  1. 30m 8 Start at tree on right below an easy face on left. Ascend 2m up face, traverse left and up recess and crack to tree with exposed roots.

Note: To right of route is a white grassy slab of approximately grade 5 extending to top. This provides an easy ascent or descent route out of the kloof.

FA: M. Fagan & P. Dawson, 1978

Takes the obvious crack and clean steep wall right of TRIO.

  1. 45m 19 Follow crack easily until it trends to the right. Move up and slightly left to reach large white hand-hold under overhang. From here bridge across to reach grip on left edge of overhang and make a difficult swing to reach tree in gully. Continue up slab on right of gully to ledge. Move right to base of crack in upper face. Climb this and wall above on progressively better holds direct to top.

FA: P. Douglas & M. Brunke, 1981

Start under the big roof immediately to the right of TRIO.

  1. 20m 18 Climb up the crack in the corner to the base of the roof. Move out under the roof to the right and pull through the roof on good holds onto the headwall. Climb up to the big ledge shared with TRIO. Finish as for TRIO.

FA: Peter Lazarus, 1988

1 10 25m
2 10 25m

Situated in Boulder Kloof, about 150m upstream from the Lower Tonquani junction, there is a large open book which continues to the top of the cliff. The right hand side of the open book offers an unattractive overgrown grey face but the left hand side offers a clean red face diagonally cut from left to right by a slanting chimney-like crack.

  1. 25m 10 Up this crack via short chimney to tree belay.

  2. 25m 10 From tree traverse left for 6m on to exposed face. Up face 9m bearing left, then on easier rock to top.

FA: R. Reid, T. Malleson & Miss E. Storrar, 1965

A bold sustained route on excellent rock taking the centre of the steep clean red face left of TRIO.

  1. 45m 20 Start left of the TRIO chimney below small overhang. Climb up to overhang and traverse right towards chimney. Ascend wall just left of chimney passing small tree on its left to where chimney goes diagonally right (5m). Traverse 2m left to below smooth steep part of face with thin finger layaway on left. Climb this tending slightly right to reach good horizontal break (crux) then strenuously to top on increasingly larger holds.

FA: P. Douglas & N. Cleaver, 1981

Stay at max 1m from the arete for the grade

FA: S. Middlemiss, W. Jenkins & R. Dodding, 1990

Downstream and on the same side as the aid roof (COMANICI) is a prominent face (RAGING BULL). To the left of the arete are two open books, a long on the right and a short one on the left.

  1. 40m 17 Climb to the base of the long open book. Climb it and exit to the left after 15m.

FA: J. Cheesemond & M. Brunke, 1981

Climbs the short open book left of LANCELOT.

  1. 40m 17 Climb up to the base of the short (left hand) open book. Climb it for 3m and then swing out left. Continue to top.

FA: J. Cheesemond & M. Brunke, 1981

The climb follows an obvious curving crack 1,5m to the right of GREGARIOUS.

  1. 20m 17 From the same start as GREGARIOUS, trend right to the base of the steep crack, which is followed as it veers right to a tree.

FA: K. Kruger & C. Edelstein, 1984

  1. 20m 17 From the stance common with DOGRARIOUS and GREGARIOUS ascent broken corner on the left und follow open book above to top.

FA: Ulrike Kiefer & H. Vogl, 1988

1 13 15m
2 18 20m

After walking up Boulder Kloof for about 100m, the foot of the rock cuts back on the left. Set back above the lower cliffs is a prominent red pinnacle/buttress, with an appealing crack in its centre.

  1. ?m 13 Scramble up clean grade 8 gully on the right, to the base of the red buttress, or find the motivation to climb through steep rock on the left (13).

  2. 20m 18 Climb the crack (moving left if necessary halfway up) to the summit.

FA: G. Lacey & K.M. Smith, 1979

About 10m downstream of the spectacular GREGARIOUS crack is an overhanging brown wall. This provides a suitable first pitch to the route. Start in a square corner that faces upstream.

  1. 35m 19 Climb the corner for about 4m then move diagonally right until able to ascend using wide straddles up steep rock. About 4m above the chimney, traverse left to a ramp and then back diagonally right. From the top of the pitch scramble right 10m to the base of the GREGARIOUS crack pitch.

FA: George Mallory & Steven Mallory, 1983

Starts 5m upstream of BARDOT in a small rocky bay capped by an overhang.

  1. 38m 13 Climb the crack to the left of the crack leading to the overhang, stepping left to a ledge at 7m. Go up a few meters and climb the left wall of the corner by some cracks for 5m until a step back into corner can be made. Follow the corner to the top with steps onto the left wall to avoid vegetation.

FA: N. Cleaver & R. Cleaver, 1981

Takes the steep slab 2m left of WEEKEND DISASTER.

  1. 15m 17 Climb up the middle of the slab to gain a ledge. Traverse left to a convenient abseil tree or continue up on easy rock to the top of the crag.

Note: One can escape onto easier ground by traversing left or right.

FA: D. Margetts, A. Mercer & M. Seegers, 1989

1 13 22m
2 11 9m

About 100m up Boulder Kloof from its junction with Tonquani Kloof, the river bed rises considerably. On the left hand side facing upstream, a dark 6m chimney is found in a corner where the line of the river scree meeting the rock face levels off. The climb is situated 20m to the right of this, just to the right of a tangle of roots on the face.

  1. 22m 13 Climb a chimney which has smooth parallel sides to a small ledge with tree belay.

  2. 9m 11 Climb the 3m open book above, and then either traverse off left onto loose scree, or continue up a corner with a good crack in it a further 6m.

FA: N.N. Heidstra & R.D. Hoare, 1971

The route starts 4m left of BARDOT in an obvious corner, with a large ledge 4m up on the left. The route ascends the groove on the right wall, immediately above the corner.

  1. 35m 19 Ascend to the large ledge, enter the groove and follow it past the tree to the second overhang. The crux is getting through the first overhang/bulge. At the second overhang traverse right onto the arete, and then up to a tree belay.

Note: Protection is sometimes hard to find.

FA: P.S. Greenfield, R. Dodding & T. Willmot, 1986

Starts 10m downstream of BARDOT in deep chimney where crag forms major open book, before descending tree lined face to stream bed.

  1. 25m 17 Ascend chimney until large ledge is reached, Look left into large square recess. Ascend recess by straddling to resting place (crux). Climb indifferent right tending off-width crack to ledge with tree belay.

FA: T.P. Willmot, P.S. Greenfield & R. Dodding, 1986

3m right of BARDOT are twin parallel off-widths. Start at the base of these.

  1. 40m 17 Climb the off-widths and continue up the small corner formed by the slab on the left and several, leaning loose-sounding blocks on the right. At the top of the corner and on reaching a little loose rock move 1m right directly up the wall for 10m. Belay on a tree.

FA: R. Dodding, P. Greenfield & T. Willmot, 1986

Starts opposite DOGMATIC. Scramble up a gully to reach the base of steep red wall.

  1. 10m 27 Start at the poor peg. Up to a rail and then to a 2nd and 3rd rail passing two bolts. Rail left and finish up a vague crack.

Note: Fully retrobolted in 2005

FA: Roger Nattrass, 1988

Set 2005

1 18 10m
2 16 20m

This climb ascends the short steep buttress on the right as one descends the scree ramp in Boulder Kloof just below BARDOT.

  1. 10m 18 Climb directly up the face and pull through the overhang.

  2. 20m 16 Climb up the easy face above to a ledge below a steeper face. Climb this face to a ledge with tree on the right.

Note: It is easy to scramble off to the right after the first pitch.

FA: D. Margetts, M. Seegers & A. Mercer, 1989

The route starts 5m upstream of POSEIDON, at the base of a rightward slanting ramp, and follows this line to a large ledge and broken ground.

  1. 30m 18 Climb the rightward slanting ramp to its end, then bearing slightly right continue up to the ledge, and belay point.

Note: The ground above the first pitch is broken and did not appear to offer good climbing. The opening party traversed off to the right. Alternatively, there are plenty of abseil points.

FA: P.S. Greenfield, T.P. Willmot & R. Dodding, 1986

1 15 20m
2 17 15m
3 13 30m

Start approximately 30m up from the junction of Lower Tonquani, on the opposite side from VERTIGO and SABER.

  1. 20m 15 Step up from the stream onto a short wall (3m). Climb to a ledge with a small tree and recess behind. Climb diagonally right, up two ramps to a large recess and ledge. Swing around left and traverse left to a broken crack, up 3m and move over left to a small ledge.

  2. 15m 17 From a poorly protected stance, move back right and climb crack running up a slab to just below an overhang. Move right onto an overhanging wall. Climb straight up to a large ledge. Either belay near the exit or traverse left to a tree sticking out.

  3. 30m 13 From the tree sticking horizontally out, move slightly left and up a short step, onto the left hand side of the buttress above. Climb the well-weathered face moving over to left, up an arete to a ledge and tree belay. Continue to top in an easy cleft.

FA: Alvin Wood, D. Hunter & C. Ward, 1980

1 6 45m
2 13 23m
3 11 18m
4 8 30m

Start directly opposite VERTIGO in Boulder Kloof.

  1. 45m 6 Scramble up a small gully to base of recess with a small tree.

  2. 23m 13 From tree (possibly with aid of small tree) angle left to slightly overhanging crack. Ascend crack onto ]edge then ascend overhanging bulge to further ledge. Walk left to corner to belay point.

  3. 18m 11 Ascend recess to large tree.

  4. 30m 8 Continue up recess past tree then up on left face or keep right and scramble to the top.

FA: G. Langmore, D. Anderson & G. Baldwin, 1974

Climbs on the True Left of the Kloof

Situated just upstream of the IRON SOUL buttress opposite SLIPSTREAM in an alcove. Three short cracks are visible on the left hand side of the alcove. The route follows the left hand one up a very smooth half closed open book.

  1. 10m 17 Climb the open book using the hand jam crack (awkward) to top.

FA: I. Guest & T. Hoole, 1985

Opposite SLIPSTREAM and PLANXTY. To the left of the big double roots is a steep buttress (Zeus Buttress), split by a buttress higher up.

  1. 30m 20 Climb the fingertip crack/groove to below the bulge, traverse left to the arete (platform) and climb diagonally right on white rock. Continue up easily and climb the right hand edge of the face above.

FA: M. Brunke & P. Douglas, 1982

FFA: George Mallory, 1984

  1. 30m 21 Climb straight through the overhanging section.

FA: K.M. Smith & George Mallory, 1985

Opposite SLIPSTREAM, and further upstream, is a rock buttress with two large, triangular roofs. IRON SOUL climbs a steep buttress to the left of these roofs. TWILIGHT OF IDOLS climbs a roof with a jam-crack between the steep buttress and the twin roofs.

  1. 35m 22,A1 Climb up a short corner directly below the jam crack in the roof and traverse right for 2m. Continue up the recess above (there is a tree root growing diagonally right across the face) and climb through the 2m roof. Continue to top.

FA: M. Brunke & O. Brunke, 1984

In Boulder Kloof there is a pinnacle with a mushroom head on the right hand side as you go up, just before the campsite.

  1. 12m 17 You may choose your own route - the only existing one for a normal human is a crack (small recess - very small) which is really an indentation on the side of the mushroom. Last move is 17.

FA: P. Dawson & T. Hoy, 1972

1 16 23m
2 8 24m

Located just before the kloof starts dropping steeply. Slightly downstream of and opposite of RAGING BULL is a downstream facing, clean looking open book about a third of the height of the kloof with an obvious large chockstone about two thirds of the way up the book. Climb this.

  1. 23m 16 Start at the base of the open book. Move up a tricky bit to reach the tree at 3m. Pass this and stem up the open book to reach the chockstone. Clear this on the left and climb up, more easily, to reach the tree belay on the big ledge above.

  2. 24m 8 Stand on the block above the belay ledge and move up diagonally rightwards to reach the large ledge above.

FA: Ulrike Kiefer & T. P. Willmot, 1994

FA: Marlo Jooste, Stefanie Myburgh & Herman van Zyl, 9 Jan 2016

1 8 25m
2 10 25m

Opposite BARDOT and diagonally upstream from the long roots descending into the kloof is an easy-looking fault running to the top of the krantz. Start on a shelf in grey rock (beacon).

  1. 25m 8 Climb diagonally right at first to a tree and then up, passing a cave-like recess and on to a still bigger cave/recess.

  2. 25m 10 Climb the chimney above. The top half requires bridging as the holds are rounded.

Note: Short persons may find the grade harder.

FA: Dan Scott & R. Fox, 1983

The route starts approximately 50m upstream of DOGSTYLE on the true left hand side of the kloof. The opposite side of the kloof has a smooth grey slab festooned with roots. The first stance is 3m above the stream bed and is at the base of a deep recess. There is an obvious layback/flake crack halfway up the face above.

  1. 30m 20 Climb onto the face 2m right of the belay tree. Continue straight up to under a small roof. Climb the crack above, moving 1m right where it end, Move more easily up to the top.

FFA: K. Smith

FA: George Mallory & S. Isabeck, 1984

Start as for ADVANCED WALKING.

  1. 35m 18 Climb up diagonally right over unprotected slab to the groove between ADVANCED WALKING and DOGMATIC. Climb groove and juggy wall above.

FA: Stewart Middlemiss & Mike Cartwright, 1986

FA: M. Haffner, George Mallory & Steven Mallory, 1986

1 22 22m
2 11 40m

Approximately 50m upstream from DOGSTYLE, on the same side of the kloof, an open book may be seen above a large grassy ledge. The route follows the open book and layback crack above to a ledge, then ascends a second open book to top.

  1. 22m 22 Scramble/traverse to grassy ledge 10m above stream level. From the grassy ledge chimney or straddle up open book, passing a small bulge, to reach more positive holds above. Ascend crack to ledge with a small tree belay.

  2. 40m 11 From the ledge ascend easy rock to a second ledge then traverse light for 4m to the base of a second open book. Ascend open book to top. A pleasant pitch.

FA: A.M. Maddison & A. Mercer, 1985

Starts 4m left (upstream) of ROUGH DIAMOND from the same ledge (cairn).

  1. 20m 23 Take off up the steep wall leading vaguely left until you can move onto the slab to the left of the thin crack. Climb straight up past the bolt runner to easier ground, which is followed to a ledge with abseil tree.

FA: S. Middlemiss, 1988

1 23 25m
2 11 40m

Immediately downstream of DOGMATIC is an overhanging open book. The route follows this. Scramble up to the large ledge below the overhang to start.

  1. 25m 23 Ascend open book to the easier wall above. Three points of aid were used to pass the section where the open book peters out (opening ascent). Stance as for DOGMATIC.

  2. 40m 11 Finish as for DOGMATIC. From the ledge ascend easy rock to a second ledge then traverse light for 4m to the base of a second open book. Ascend open book to top. A pleasant pitch.

FA: A.M. Maddison, A.J. Mercer & R. Brand., 1985

FFA: K.M. Smith & Charles Edelstein, 1985

This route starts from the same ledge as DOGSTYLE, about 20m upstream.

  1. 30m 19 Climb the obvious broken recess tending diagonally up and right near the top to reach good jugs.

Note: Sustained mild face climbing.

FA: Charles Edelstein, Alan Lambert & A.J. Smith, 1983

  1. 15m 24 Climb up the wall past two bolts

FA: Roger Nattrass, 1989

Climbs the corner 5m upstream from DOGSTYLE.

  1. 30m 22 Climb the corner.

FA: S. Middlemiss, R. Natrass & M. Cartwright, 1988

This route starts on a yellow buttress 50m upstream of SABER on the same side of the kloof. It takes the obvious bottomless crack on the yellow face. The crack thins out after about 4m and the route then continues up the faint line to the top of the buttress. A peg is placed about 10m up. Scramble up to the base of the route in a shallow cave.

  1. 40m 23 Climb 4m up to the bottomless crack. Climb the crack to where it thins and then make hard moves to a finger-lock hole. Another hard move to the peg and then the crux move past the peg. From here move up tending left on good but tiring holds to a rest off a hand-jam. Then back diagonally up right to the large flake and a hands-off (almost) rest. Move right onto the flake and easily (all things being relative) to the top.

FA: Alan Lambert & Charles Edelstein, 1983

FFA: Steve Bradshaw & Adrian Jardin, 1994

1 8 25m
2 14 15m

Start 30m left of SABER below series of large ledges.

  1. 25m 8 Ascend ledges tending diagonally right to reach platform below arete, level with start of SABER crack. (This is the scramble used to reach DOGSTYLE) Move right around arete to reach recess and tree belay.

  2. 15m 14 Follow obvious crack in corner at back of recess to top.

FA: C.Wood & C. Ward, 1980

FA: P. Douglas & N. Cleaver, 1981

1 17 35m
2 12 36m

Start at tree growing in sandy area 3m left of the start for SABRE. This is below a buttress with a tree 12m up, and topped by a series of deep overhangs.

  1. 35m 17 Climb the face of the buttress, keeping in line with the tree. Skirt the tree on the right, and then follow the crack line to the left hand side of the overhangs. Move through the first overhang by getting up under the roof, and traversing right for 3m, and the second by climbing the ramp. Easy ground follows. Belay on ledge on the left - same as for RED NECK.

  2. 36m 12 Climb the obvious v-shaped groove immediately left of the corner/recess that RED NECK takes.

Notes:

  1. There is no protection on the initial 15m of the first pitch. Thereafter protection is good.

FA: C.Wood & C. Ward, 1980

FA: P.S. Greenfield, T.P. Willmot & S. Kelsey, 1987

Start approximately 30m up on the right hand side from the Tonquani junction.

  1. 25m 13 Climb a slab in a recess to about 3m below some overhangs. Traverse right across a wall to easy ground. Climb a short corner to a large ledge. Either continue up an edge left of some tree roots or move to another corner and up and back on ledge of jumbled blocks below a crack sweeping up red-brown wall.

  2. 20m 19 Climb up the crack until it opens into a shallow recess situated 3m below the belay stance. Move over left and up. Belay. Excellent jam crack climbing.

  3. 15m 13 To add good climbing, move right under the overhang above the stance and climb up through a V-slot. Traverse slightly left to a nose. Swing up over the nose and continue to some large blocks.

FA: D. Hunter & C. Ward, 1980

1 17 35m
2 19 36m

Takes a direct line some 3 metres to the right of the start of SABER. Scramble up from stream bed to base of short A-shaped book with smooth slab to left and capped by bulge (large tree peeled away from face at base of book).

  1. 35m 17 Climb up the A-shaped book as far as possible. Step onto smooth slab on left and follow the line of the bulge around until the base of a short open book can be reached. Ascend this and then the face above to the large ledge below the overhangs. Move up short thin wall above to gain the jam-crack through the roof on the downstream side of the protruding nose. Pull through to gain the large detached block above. Stance at the same level as RED NECK.

  2. 36m 19 Climb the crack immediately above the stance. This ascends the right hand wall of the deep book, the root of which forms RED NECK. Gain the cubbyhole below the roof with difficulty. Break left under the roof to gain the chicken-head face on the left. Follow the shallow groove above to the abseil tree at the top of RED NECK.

Notes:

  1. Superb climbing on a good line.

FA: T.P. Willmot & S. Kelsey, 1987

1 13 28m
2 10 18m
3 10 27m

The climb starts in Boulder Kloof 25m upstream from Tonquani junction. The route then spirals around the corner between Boulder Kloof and Lower Tonquani.

Start below a sloping recess with a wide crack. The crack is just upstream from a bunch of roots on the rock face where a tree that used to grow on a ledge 3m up has become uprooted.

  1. 28m (13) Climb up crack using the face left of it to a small chockstone where the crack starts to go right and up. At this point, cross over the crack onto the face to the right. Go up diagonally to the right to a good ledge. Walk to the far right of the ledge.

  2. 18m (10) At the right hand end of the ledge, climb up following a short bottomless chimney to the next platform.

  3. 27m (10) Climb to the top.

FA: T. Bright & C. Nicholls, 1939

Climbs the slabs just below SABER (to the right of BOULDER SPIRAL). Scramble 5m to a ledge,

  1. 20m 20 From ledge move up to some blocks, traverse 3m right to below thin crack with small roof at 5m. Climb the crack to the top.

FA: C. Curzon, S. Middlemiss & Malcolm Gowans, 1989

Scramble to the large ledge at the base of SABER'S final 19 crack.

  1. 25m 21 Traverse about 5m right to beneath the obvious left-leaning dihedral. Climb up the dihedral until a move to the right can be made. Continue straight up the steep rock just to the left of the arete.

Note: The piton protecting the crux was placed on abseil. The pitch is harder for shorter persons.

FA: K.M. Smith & Charles Edelstein, 1984

1 17 28m
2 10 11m
3 11 28m

Walk 5m up Boulder Kloof then scramble up 6m to grassy platform on right. About 18m up on the left a big overhang will be seen. From grassy platform scramble 6m up to rock platform.

  1. 28m 17 From platform climb up right-angled crack well beneath small overhang. Exit left on to red-grey face. Ascend face (steep but with good grips) bearing left. When angle eases move diagonally up right to large stance common to BOULDER SPIRAL route.

  2. 11m 10 Climb slightly overhanging ramp to the left of BOULDER SPIRAL to next ledge.

  3. 28m 11 Ascend straight up for 8m to two loose slabs near each other. Traverse left and climb up ramp first to the right of shallow recess. Move into recess and ascend it for about 6m before traversing out right again. (Tree above.) Ascend ramp to stance below huge weathered boulder.

FA: T. Kerrich & L. Klingman, 1963

1 17 25m
2 17 15m
3 11 35m

Walk 5m up Boulder Kloof from its junction with Tonquani and scramble 5m up to a grassy ledge on the right (as for VERTIGO). A slab capped by a large overhang 15m up lies to the left.

  1. 25m 17 Climb diagonally left up the slab to the left end of the large overhang. Move left onto the face and climb up to a ledge (crux). Continue up a few metres to the large ledge shared with BOULDER SPIRAL.

  2. 15m 17 From the left end of the large ledge a short undercut ramp leading up to the right allows one to turn the band of overhangs and gain a recess above. Continue up the recess to a good ledge and tree belay. The top pitch of REDNECK goes up the corner behind the tree.

  3. 35m 11 A few metres to the left of the tree belay there is a steep chimney. Climb this on good grips to the top.

Note: A pleasant climb with short, well protected cruxes.

FA: D. Peters & M. Arsenijevic, 1988

Information needed

This crag does not have a description. Can you share a summary introduction to this crag?

If you can help provide a better quality resource for the climbing community then please click 'edit this crag' button near the top of the page.

Activity

Check out what is happening in Boulder Kloof.