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Access issues

For more information on routes, access and permits please see the following websites:

Mountain Club of South Africa (MCSA) Look at “Who we are” for the different sections of the MCSA

Mountain Club of South Africa – Johannesburg Section website Click on “Access and Properties” for more information Click on “Contact” to get in touch with the MCSA for more information.

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Grade Route

The climb is 50m downstream of the Cederberg/Tonquani junction and 15m downstream of Hotplate. A large (9x9m) square free-standing buttress, mentioned in pitch 2, can be seen from the kloof floor. Scramble up a gully, about 20m left of square free-standing buttress, for 10m and walk right along ledge to a corner.

  1. 28m 13 Start in corner and climb up. Continue right and up on sloping rock at top of pitch to a corner.

  2. 30m 14 Climb in corner and on upstream face of free standing buttress. At the top of the buttress, step across to the left onto face and climb face to a very large ledge.

  3. 30m 14 From the ledge a short (9m) 90° open book with a small shrub at the bottom is visible at the top of the rock face. Start in corner between face and a free-standing rock pillar on the right. Continue up to shrub and climb the open book at the top.

"A chickenshit mass ascent"

FA: Bernard, John, Rodger, Julia, Mara, Dave & Ingrid, 1987


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