Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
15 | Maiden Over
Located about 75m downstream of the Help-help pool, in an open book with a crack facing upstream. Climb the crack and veer off to the right when about 9m below the top. Generally grade 10 with about 6m of grade 15. FA: Merv Prior, P. Bloomfield & Miss J. Hodges, 1957 | ||||
18 | The Vision
Takes a line up the cliffs opposite and slightly downstream from the Detroit Wall area. FA: Darryl Margetts | ||||
15 | The First and the Last
1
15
20m
2
8
40m
3
15
40m
The climb is situated 400 to 500m upstream of the Boulder Kloof / Lower Tonquani junction, 10m upstream of a sandy bank on the right hand side (looking upstream). The climb ascends a smooth grey face on the left wall (looking upstream). The face is terminated on the right by a vertical corner.
Note: The first and the last pitches are most enjoyable. The first requiring a fine sense of balance and the last is beautiful because of it's straightness, length and the juggy quality of the rock. This climb may have been done before as an old peg was found at the foot of the last pitch. FA: T. Rogers, D. Rogers & G. Earle, 1988 | 100m, 3 | |||
20 | The First And The Last-Variation
1
20
20m
2
8
40m
3
15
40m
The climb is situated 400 to 500m upstream of the Boulder Kloof / Lower Tonquani junction, 10m upstream of a sandy bank on the right hand side (looking upstream). The climb ascends a smooth grey face on the left wall (looking upstream). The face is terminated on the right by a vertical corner.
Note: The first and the last pitches are most enjoyable. The first requiring a fine sense of balance and the last is beautiful because of it's straightness, length and the juggy quality of the rock. This climb may have been done before as an old peg was found at the foot of the last pitch. FA: T. Rogers, D. Rogers & G. Earle, 1988 | 100m, 3 | |||
27 | Master Blaster
Located on the same wall as 'Dance Across the Centuries'.
FA: Roger Natrass, 1991 | 35m, 1 | |||
25 | ★★★ Dance Across the Centuries
Approximately 100m upstream from 'Red Column' there is a very overhanging orange wall which starts about 30m below the top of the kloof. The wall faces slightly upstream, is opposite a dry gully and is split by a left-tending break. The route is best approached from the top.
FA: Steve Bradshaw & D. Neetling, 1986 | 30m | |||
25 | Shouting in a Matchbox
Climb left break on the wall, kinking to the right briefly at a bolt and then exiting left. FA: Peter Lazarus, 1989 | ||||
19 | Talk-Talk
This route goes up the south face of 'Red Column' buttress i.e. upstream and around the corner from 'Red Column Face'. Scramble up from the stream bed for approximately 40m. The route starts below the only obvious break about 2m right of the arete.
FA: Charles Edelstein & R. van Dijk, 1984 | 40m | |||
21 | ★★★ More Monkey Than Funky
1
20
25m
2
21
20m
The route climbs the frontal arete on 'Red Column' and finishes spectacularly through a 2m roof (which is prominent on the upper skyline, especially when viewed from downstream). Scramble up grassy slopes to the highest ledge in the large grey open book at the base of 'Red Column', directly below the final roof.
FA: K.M. Smith, S. Isabeck & George Mallory, 1984 | 45m, 2 | |||
24 | ★★★ The Shining
1
20
25m
2
24
12m
Climbs up the centre of the downstream wall of 'Red Column', finishing via the obvious fist crack. Scramble to a ledge and small tree at the base of the wall.
Note: Protection is not everywhere available on the first pitch. FA: K.M. Smith & M. Brunke, 1985 | 37m, 2 | |||
19 | Geriatrical
1
17
30m
2
19
30m
A variation to 'Red Column'. Scramble up as for 'Red Column' up to a huge block. 'Red Column' goes right around the corner from here.
FA: P. Douglas & M. Brunke, 1981 | 60m, 2 | |||
15 | ★★ Red Column
1
11
15m
2
15
9m
3
13
15m
4
15
22m
The Red Column is an outstanding feature on the right hand side of the kloof about 45m upstream from the point of entry of Boulder Kloof into Tonquani Kloof. The climb commences on downstream face of 'Red Column' and starting point is reached by proceeding up the grass slope below then bearing right to the base of the first overhang near the outer edge of the column. Start in dark corner at a medium sized tree.
Note: The first 2 pitches are the same as those used by the route 'Staircase' Variations: 2a. 8m 19 Instead of traversing right, climb onto block and follow crack to top. (Is this the first pitch of 'Geriatrical' ?) (Jun 1986 D. Margetts, G. Margetts and R. Diesel) 3a. ?m 19 From tree belay of second pitch of 'Red Column Face' climb easily up the left wall of gully to reach large ledge below overhanging crack containing two chockstones. Ascend crack awkwardly at first (beware of head jams) moving right at top past tree to belay above gully.(Jul 1981 P. Douglas and M. Brunke) (This is possibly pitch 2 of 'Geriatrical' ?) 4a. 20m 19 From the narrow ledge stance, climb straight up the arête. The last few moves are shared with 'Red Column Face' . Possibly the best arête pitch in the Magaliesberg! (2 Jan 2013 Andrew Porter and Garreth de Beer) FA: R.F. Davies & F. Villa, 1950 | 61m, 4 | |||
19 | ★★★ Red Column Face
1
15
12m
2
19
22m
3
19
18m
4
15
22m
The lower part of the route uses parts of the common pitches of 'Staircase' and 'Red Column'. Start from a large pool under the downstream face of 'Red Column' and scramble up a short wall and across right past a tree and up to belay at the base of two grooves.
Note: There is fine exposure on the final pitches. Pitch 3 opened using a tension traverse. FA: A.D. Barley & R.P. Barley, 1968 | 74m, 4 | |||
15 | Staircase
1
11
15m
2
15
9m
3
6
8m
4
15
25m
5
7
8m
6
6
12m
Climb commences on downstream face of 'Red Column' and starting point is reached by proceeding up the grass slope below then bearing right to the base of the first overhang near the outer edge of the column. Start in dark corner at a medium sized tree.
Variation to Pitches 4, 5 and 6: 4a. 28m 15 Climb the overhanging recess as in Pitch 4, for 11m, then instead of bearing left move about 2m right onto the face and proceed directly to the top of the column on good holds. FA: R. Charlton, S. Penny & E. Lude, 1949 | 77m, 6 | |||
15 | ★ Megawhat
| 20m | |||
18 | ★ Bottom Lip Moves
1
18
35m
2
17
30m
Scramble up to grassy ledge below 'Short Circuit'. Climb follows left-leaning corner 10m to right of 'Short Circuit'.
Note: The corner of pitch 1 was first climbed in Dec 1985 by A.J. Smith, B. O’Meara and K.M. Smith as 'Megawhat'. FA: Stewart Middlemiss & Adele Margetts, 1987 | 65m, 2 | |||
16 | ★★ Short Circuit
1
10
12m
2
10
14m
3
16
18m
4
8
12m
15m downstream of 'Red Column' is a diminutive triangular undercut buttress, which is bounded on its left by a right-angled corner. This is the main feature of the route. Start from a boulder 5m downstream of the pool below 'Red Column' downstream face. Scramble up the ramp then up right to the top of the vegetation.
Variations: 2a. 18m 15 From the right hand end of the ledge, climb diagonally right for 6m over overhanging rock, then traverse 9m left under the main overhang. 4a. ?m 16 Instead of scrambling off to the left, traverse right 3m into corner. Climb corner for 4m. Traverse right 2m into recess (steep and exposed). Pull through overhang. Follow crack line and slab above to top. (13 Apr 2008 Chris Ziranek and Ulrike Kiefer) FA: S. Penny, E. Lude, A.D. Barley & R.P. Barley, 1968 | 56m, 4 | |||
22 | ★★★ Circuit-Breaker
Climbs the impressive left wall of the 'Short Circuit' corner. Start 2m left of the start of the corner pitch.
FA: M. Haffner, George Mallory & Clive Curson, 1986 | 35m | |||
22 | Lightning Seed
Climbs the wall to the left of 'Short Circuit' / 'Circuit-Breaker'.
FA: Mike Hislop & Chris Lomax, 1992 | 30m | |||
25 | ★★★ Physical Graffiti
The smooth grey slab above the grassy ramp which leads up to the base of, and is left of, 'Red Column'.
Note: Small wires are useful as protection. FA: K.M. Smith, 1986 | 25m | |||
17 | ★ Sabre Cut
1
13
20m
2
17
20m
3
11
25m
Start downstream from 'Red Column' and left of 'Short Circuit', on a near-perpendicular wall.
FA: D. Hunter & Clive Ward, 1980 | 65m, 3 | |||
19 | Hanging Around
Climbs the hanging corner left of 'Circuit-Breaker'. Start 10m left of the start of that route at a ledge underneath a small prow of rock.
FA: M. Haffner & B. O'Meara, 1987 | ||||
13 | Fused
The route ascends the front of the buttress immediately upstream of Boulder Kloof. The start is at the point where the wall of Boulder Kloof swings around into Tonquani. Scramble 6m to a ledge and the start of the cleaner rock of the buttress. Follow a line slanting up left for 4,5m then move diagonally right under overhangs. The initial move is awkward. A grassy ledge is then reached. From here follow the best line to the top. Note: Variations are possible most of the way. A nondescript route. Length 75m. FA: A.D. Barley & Miss van Steenderen, 1968 | 75m | |||
19 | ★★ Alpine Family Circus
This route and Prime Sending Conditions both climb a lovely wall perched high up on the downstream junction of Boulder and Lower Tonquani (opposite and downstream from Sabre). Well worth it just for the views. The climbing is good too. Access from the top by scrambling out to the point of the peninsular between the two kloofs. Leave some fixed gear and rap 25m down to a nice ledge with soft grass. The two lines are a few meters apart and are obvious. Routes named after a display of alpine climbing prowess later in the day, when a family of four (including two small kids) calmly climbed a route out of Boulder in a fearsome thunderstorm. Climb the corner on the right, stepping right at the roof and then back left. FA: Marianne Schwankhart & Hector Pringle, 20 Dec 2022 | 25m | |||
16 | ★★ Prime Sending Conditions
Climb the easy break a few meters left of 'Alpine Family Circus'. FA: Hector Pringle & Marianne Schwankhart, 20 Dec 2022 | 25m | |||
18 | Zebop
1
17
30m
2
4
15m
3
18
35m
Situated 5 metres upstream of 'Can-Can'. Scramble 5m up to ledge.
FA: Stewart Middlemiss, Russ Dodding & L. Gardiner, 1986 | 80m, 3 | |||
18 | Pirouette
1
18
35m
2
16
35m
Start as for 'Can-Can'. Scramble up to ledge (5m).
FA: Stewart Middlemiss & B. Slater, 1986 | 70m, 2 | |||
17 | ★ Can-Can
1
17
9m
2
17
28m
3
13
30m
Situated about 35m downstream from Boulder Kloof. The start is marked by a large overhang about 15m above the stream bed. The climb starts on the right of this overhang. Scramble 9m to ledge and walk right past overhang to foot of open book at right side of the square overhang i.e. 4,5m to the right of the start of 'Diminuendo'.
FA: Paul Fatti, M. Makowski, M. Cramphorn, P. Venter & J. Anderson, 1963 | 67m, 3 | |||
17 | Diminuendo
1
17
8m
2
13
30m
3
8
25m
The climb is located about 40m downstream of Boulder Kloof. The start is marked by a large square overhang about 15m above the stream bed. Scramble 9m to ledge and walk right as far as the recess in line with the left edge of the overhang.
FA: E. Scholes & T. Louw, 1950 | 63m, 3 | |||
20 | Quickstep
1
20
25m
2
17
25m
3
10
6m
Immediately upstream of 'Dark Gully' is a narrow buttress in the lower tier. This is bound on its right by a steep corner ('Foxtrot') and immediately right again is a very sharp V-groove ('Quickstep'). The latter route follows the continuation groove in the top tier and 'Foxtrot' ascends a short groove in the steep ridge right of 'Dark Gully' . (Right of 'Touch and Go' .)
FA: A.D. Barley & M. White, 1969 | 56m | |||
17 | ★ Headbanger
1
17
30m
2
17
20m
Scramble up 15m to a ledge, and start between the first pitches of 'Quickstep' and 'Foxtrot'
FA: Kevin M. Smith, A.J. Smith & M. Haffner, 1985 | 50m, 2 | |||
17 | ★ Foxtrot
1
15
18m
2
10
12m
3
17
34m
See description of 'Quickstep' regarding location. Start below the V-groove and scramble up left to good ledge and tree belay below the steep corner.
FA: A.D. Barley & M. White, 1969 | 64m, 3 | |||
19 | Methods of Dance
Located between the top pitches of 'Foxtrot' and 'Quickstep'
FA: Stewart Middlemiss, Mike Hislop & P. Stoddard, 1990 | 35m | |||
18 | ★ Touch and Go
1
10
22m
2
6
12m
3
17
22m
4
18
The climb is about 15m upstream from 'Dark Gully' . A square grey buttress extends from halfway up the krantz. Above this the face is steep and reddish.
Variation:
FA: S. Penny & P. Lathan, 1952 | 56m, 4 | |||
21 | Let's Dance
Climbs the steep wall on the upper LHS of 'Dark Gully' . i.e Downstream and around the corner from 'Foxtrot'
FA: Kevin M. Smith & Stewart Middlemiss, 1988 | 20m | |||
7 | Dark Gully
An easy route in the deep gully about 20m upstream of the Cedarberg / Lower Tonquani junction. FA: E. Scholes, 1957 | ||||
18 | The Huber Guns
Scramble up 'Dark Gully' until able to traverse right onto a ledge with large squat grey pinnacle on it. Belay here.
Descent: Rap from a tree down 'Dark Gully' FA: Hector Pringle & Nic Grech-Cumbo, 2016 | 35m | |||
17 | Spartan
About 20m downstream of the Boulder Kloof junction, about 30m above river level, is a dihedral with a wall forming the left side and a recessed wall on the right. Scramble onto the high level ledge via a recessed corner just upstream and opposite the Cedarberg junction. This involves some grade 12 climbing. Traverse to the right (upstream) almost as far as you can go. Start at the base of the recess (open book).
FA: Ian Slatem & C. Mitchell, 1987 | 20m | |||
17 | ★ Ringing It Dry
Start about 4m right of 'Reign of Terror'
FA: Russ Dodding & B. Marcus, 1990 | 25m | |||
20 | ★★ Reign of Terror
Takes the steep, clean face about 15m downstream of 'Dark Gully' in Lower Tonquani, more or less opposite 'Effigy' . Start in the middle of the face, from grassy ledge about 15m above stream.
FA: A.J. Smith & B. O'Meara, 1986 | 23m | |||
16 | ★★ Ring of Fire
Climbs the crack line left of 'Reign of Terror'
FA: Clive Curson & Stewart Middlemiss, 1989 | 25m | |||
10 | Diversion
1
8
28m
2
10
34m
3
8
22m
The start of the climb is about 10m downstream from 'Dark Gully' (being the first recess past 'Dark Gully' ) with a large tree growing from its centre about 12m above the ledge.
FA: M. Cramphorn, I. Barrow & R. Blackhurst, 1963 | 84m, 3 | |||
15 | Rortvyler
1
15
25m
2
11
33m
Scramble up 10m to a grassy ledge at the foot of a V-shaped open book recess about 7m downstream of 'Diversion' (Thus the climb is situated a little way upstream from the Cedarberg-Tonquani junction.)
Note: The crux section may prove easier for long people or harder for shorties! FA: Kevin M. Smith & C. Rotteglia, 1978 | 58m, 2 | |||
20 | ★ Iconoclast
Climb the right wall of 'Junction Recess' Scramble up 10m to a large grassy ledge at the base of 'Junction Recess' proper.
FA: M. Haffner & Kevin M. Smith, 1985 | 20m | |||
22 | ★★ By Innocence Betrayed
FA: S. Evans & G. Murray, 1989 | 20m | |||
8 | Junction Recess
1
7
23m
2
6
14m
3
8
15m
4
8
18m
5
6
27m
Situated in Tonquani Kloof in the recess directly opposite the entrance of Cedarberg Kloof. Starts on the right hand side of a bushy ledge about 6m above the stream bed.
Note: The rock is sound all the way and stances big enough for a party of up to seven. FA: K. Ruhle, E. Ruhle, M. Barker, H. le Riche, A. Dolalay, S. Stickent & B. Croxford, 1939 | 97m, 5 | |||
17 | Junction Arête
1
17
30m
2
13
35m
3
8
28m
FA: Merv Prior & C. Epstein, 1995 | 93m, 3 | |||
17 | Day Tripper
1
17
25m
2
10
12m
3
13
43m
Visible from Cedarberg are twin cracks in the right wall of Tonquani. 'Junction Recess' follows the right one to mid-height then switches to the left one and the left wall. This route ascends the left one and right one in its upper half. Scramble 6m to a large ledge directly opposite Cedarberg entry.
FA: A.D. Barley & M. White, 1968 | 80m, 3 | |||
19 | ★★ Pumping Preacher
1
19
35m
2
11
35m
Takes a left slanting fault line across the next buttress upstream from 'Contention Buttress' , i.e. about 20m downstream of Cedarberg-Tonquani junction on the true right hand side. Scramble up to shallow cave and traverse right on large blocks then ascend grassy slope for 30m to large triangular grassy ledge (cairn).
FA: A.M. Maddison & A. Mercer, 1985 | 70m, 2 | |||
20 | Arbatrator
1
20
30m
2
17
30m
On the wall directly opposite 'The Doppler Effect' about halfway up, is a set of triangular shaped roofs with a prominent leftwards tending crack system. Scramble up to the left of the crack.
FA: Paul Schlotfeldt, G. Graafland & Chris Lomax, 1986 | 60m, 2 | |||
19 | ★ Revelation
1
10
30m
2
19
18m
3
13
12m
4
15
30m
Takes a diagonal left-slanting line across 'Contention Buttress' which is situated 40m downstream of the Cedarberg-Tonquani junction on the true right side, opposite 'The Doppler Effect'. Scramble up 20m to the left, past a large cave, onto a good ledge in the corner.
FA: A.M. Maddison & A.J. Mercer, 1985 | 90m, 4 | |||
16 | ★ Polished Performance
1
16
25m
2
14
25m
The route takes the obvious deep, narrow open book on the upstream side of the column mentioned in 'Who Wants To Live Forever'
Note: Superb route. Protection is adequate. FA: Ulrike Kiefer & Tim P. Willmot, 1995 | 50m, 2 | |||
10 | Contention Buttress
When the face is surveyed from just downstream of 'Gunfire' , three parallel reddish ridges or buttresses are seen. 'Gunfire' follows the left-hand buttress. 'Contention Buttress' follows the centre buttress with an alternative variation up the right hand buttress.
FA: E. Scholes, E. Ruhle & H. Cameron, 1948 | ||||
15 | No Man's Land
1
15
30m
2
11
40m
About 50m downstream of the Cedarberg-Tonquani junction there is a prominent 20m grey face on the true right hand side, up which runs a slightly irregular crack. Scramble up to belay on a ledge 3m above the river, at the foot of easier rock leading up to the face.
FA: Kevin M. Smith, M. Mears & R. van Dijk, 1980 | 70m, 2 | |||
20 | ★★★ Who Wants To Live Forever
1
20
26m
2
11
19m
3
13
33m
Opposite 'The Doppler Effect' is a grey face with a pronounced column in the centre extending to approximately a third of the kloof height. The route takes the groove at the downstream extremity of the column, passes the route on the left, passes the tree, moves up the crack above to reach the top of the column. The route ascends the face immediately above the top of the column and then moves up the buttress above to the top (cairn).
Note: Excellent climbing, technically demanding. FA: Ulrike Kiefer & Tim P. Willmot, 1995 | 78m, 3 | |||
22 | ★★ Another Mark and Marianne route
1
22
2
18
Climbs the buttress to the right of Geomancer, up the right hand, downstream facing wall of the deep gully which forms the lower part of Cannon Fodder.
FA: Mark Seuring & Marianne Schwankhart, Oct 2020 | 2 | |||
28 PROT:R | ★★ Geomancer
Takes a rising line on up the obvious leaning wall on the true right (east) side of the kloof, starting 20-30 m above the kloof base – access is best by an easy ab down the ramp of 'Cannon Fodder' ±50m downstream of the junction with Cedarberg kloof. An easy 15' stroll from Utopia. You can see 'Geomancer' from the top looking upstream from the top of the 'Cannon Fodder' slab. With a spare rope abseil off an obvious big tree on a flat ledge/block at the top of the 'Cannon Fodder' corner, down the slab to a perched belay about 10 m above a massive (meters across) chockstone. The climb starts off the slab beside a very white niche. Make hard moves to gain a corner. Move up the corner until you reach a point where there is a wicked slopey handrail just around the arete to left (place high gear in a corner before you go left) – reach the rail, cut loose and campus left then up with difficulty before you can step left to a jug rest. Face climb to a tricky hand-jam and bomber gear below the steep headwall. Continue up right and then slightly left up to before the ledges. Gets shade until 1-2'ish. FA: A. Pedley, 2020 | 30m | |||
10 | ★★ Cannon Fodder
The route follows an obvious gently leaning open book, opposite a deep cleft mentioned under 'Gunfire' Start as for BROADSIDE by scrambling up to a platform above the cave.
FA: A.J. Mercer & A.M. Mercer, 1985 | 45m | |||
11 | Gunfire
This climb commences about 50m below the junction of Cedarberg and Tonquani Kloofs. The route ascends the lowermost downstream of three reddish buttresses and is directly opposite a deep cleft on the other side of the kloof. On the left hand side of the buttress a recessed gully leads easily up from stream bed. Ascending this gully it becomes cavernous and closed in by the right hand wall. After a scramble of about 22m up this gully traverse out right on to buttress (8) and at a small grass ledge climb up 9m to top of buttress. From here ascend diagonally left up towards the left hand flank of buttress (10) and climb obvious recess to top (11). FA: S. Penny, R. Kinsley, S. Patchitt & F. Petousis, 1952 | ||||
8 | ★★ Take Five
Climbs a very clean, easy-angled recess extending the height of the right hand side of the kloof, about 50m downstream of the Cedarberg-Tonquani junction. Scramble about 30m up from the stream (as for 'Gunfire' ) to where the gully becomes cavernous. Sneak behind chockstones at the back to emerge at the base of the final recess.
FA: M. Smith & Kevin M. Smith, 1986 | 45m | |||
15 | Rolex
1
13
28m
2
15
25m
3
11
25m
Upstream from 'Hourglass' is a gully. The route starts up a prominent recess a short distance upstream from the gully.
FA: Paul Fatti & Art McGarr, 1975 | 78m, 3 | |||
20 | ★★ Bumping Weight Tosser
1
13
28m
2
13
20m
3
20
25m
Directly opposite 'Oedipus Sunday' is an obvious open book capped by an overhang with the open book continuing above. The meat of this climb is the last pitch, which is excellent. If you just want to climb this, then it makes sense to rap in from above. For completeness, all the pitches are written up here.
FA: Ian Slatem & J. Brown, 1985 FA: A.M. Maddison, A.J. Mercer & C. Ward, 1985 | 73m, 3 | |||
23 | ★★ Bumping Weight Tosser-Direct
1
13
28m
2
13
20m
3
23
22m
Directly opposite 'Oedipus Sunday' is an obvious open book capped by an overhang with the open book continuing above. The meat of this climb is the last pitch, which is excellent. If you just want to climb this, then it makes sense to rap in from above. For completeness, all the pitches are written up here.
FA: Charles Edelstein, 1985 | 70m, 3 | |||
AU:23 PROT:R | ★★ Marianne and Mark's route
Rap in to the ledge and climb the white slab/face to the left of 'Bumping Weight Tosser'. Wanders around a bit to contrive gear FA: Marianne Schwankhart & Mark Seuring, Oct 2020 | 25m | |||
20 | ★★ Rastafarian
Immediately downstream of the first wade pool in Lower Tonquani (below Tonquani/Cedarberg junction) scramble up gully on right hand side. Scramble to the right to high ledges (about 45m above stream) at base of wall.
FA: Maddison, Mercer & Clive Ward, 1985 FA: Ian Slatem & J. Brown, 1985 | 25m | |||
22 | ★ Decadence
Situated 8m upstream of the first wade pool encountered downstream from the Cedarberg-Tonquani junction. Two thin crack lines a few feet apart run up the centre of a steep smooth slab, at the base of which two large trees are growing.
Note: The protection is thin. FA: Kevin M. Smith, George Mallory & Charles Edelstein, 1987 | 10m | |||
16 | Munye Inja
1
16
25m
2
15
38m
Starts above first wade pool going down Tonquani from the Tonquani/Cedarberg junction i.e.30m upstream of 'The Hourglass' on the same side.
FA: Stewart Middlemiss & Michael Cartwright, 1986 | 63m, 2 | |||
17 | Streamline
1
17
20m
2
7
40m
3
7
12m
The climb is situated in Lower Tonquani on the true right hand side about 90m downstream from the Cedarberg kloof junction, just next to a pool which is at times awkward to cross. Scramble up a square recess to a big sloping vegetated ledge. At the back of this is a crack.
FA: S. Akers, M. Brunke & W. Vormbaum, 1980 | 72m, 3 | |||
15 | Swansong
1
15
25m
2
13
28m
The route ascends the wall immediately right of 'The Hourglass' . Start below 'The Hourglass' immediately downstream of a pool.
Scramble off. FA: A.D. Barley, Miss M. van Steenderen, A.C. Cameron & B.F. Honey, 1969 | 53m, 2 | |||
17 | ★★ Xtacy
The climb follows a line 4m to the right of 'The Hourglass'. It has a common stance with 'The Hourglass' in the narrowest section of the ‘hourglass’ (which can be reached by starting below 'The Hourglass', following a left tending groove till a large tree (14m 6), then traversing right into the ‘hourglass’ (6m), to a peg belay). The rock and line is good, but it tends to be vegetated. With traffic this would be a classic.
FA: K. Kruger & M. Giddy, 1985 | 25m | |||
24 | ★★★ A Brief History of Time
1
14
25m
2
24
30m
The climb takes the slab to the right of 'The Hourglass'. An amazing slab test-piece with good gear and wild moves.
Bolt replaced in 2021 with M10 Fischer EXA-10/5/70 A4 stainless express anchor. FFA: T. Rogers & Jeremy Colenso FA: Jeremy Colenso & A. Smith, 1988 Maint: 2021 | 55m, 2, 1 | |||
17 | ★★★ The Hourglass
1
15
15m
2
17
22m
A mega classic first ascended by the prolific Barley brothers. Each pitch offers interesting climbing on good rock. Start 15m downstream of the wading pool below Cedarberg-Tonquani junction. About 25m up is a large triangular recess capped by a roof ‘the hourglass’. Scramble about 12m up to the platform and tree belays. The large recess of triangular shape lies at the back of the ledge. The climb starts at the base of a crack on the right side of the back wall of the recess.
Either rap off the tree (50m back to the stream) or scramble 30m over broken rock to the top. Variation: A variation pitch to the left of the first pitch was climbed by J. Anderson and P. Venter on 10 Nov 1968. FA: P. Venter & J. Anderson., 1968 FA: R.P. Barley & A.D. Barley, 1969 | 37m, 2 | |||
19 | ★★★ Sands of Time
A mega classic. Climbs the slab to the left of top pitch of 'The Hourglass'. Climb the first pitch of Xstacy to belay on a narrow foot ledge beneath the slab.
FA: A. Smith & B. O' Meara, 1988 | 25m | |||
21 | ★ Time in a Bottle
Start a few meters downstream from 'The Hourglass'.
Note: A good set of small wires will be useful. FA: M. Smith & Kevin M. Smith, 1989 | 15m | |||
13 | Grotto Buttress
1
8
12m
2
13
12m
3
10
25m
4
10
22m
Located about 15m downstream from 'The Hourglass' and just above a second large deep wading pool. The climb is on an obvious ridge, the first below 'The Hourglass'.
FA: Merv Prior & R. Green, 1970 | 71m, 4 | |||
21 | War of the People
About 300m downstream of Tonquani/Cedarberg junction in Lower Tonquani is a "fall across" tree. 10m upstream of this is a large flat top boulder. On right hand side a steep wall is present. Two cracks run up this wall. Scramble up to base of steep wall.
FA: Ian Slatem, J. Brown & Paul Schlotfeldt, 1985 | 35m | |||
23 | ★★★ Just Hot
Situated past some wading pools about 60m downstream of 'The Hourglass', just before a couple of tree trunks spanning the kloof over a wade pool. Easily recognisable as a smooth face on the right. The climb follows the left fault line on the face.
FA: D. Neethling, Ian Guest & Tim Hoole, 1985 | 35m | |||
20 | ★ Stepping Razors
Just downstream of 'War of the People' a tree lies across the kloof (at a wade pool) against a buttress with gullies up either side. There is a small cave about 8m up on the right. Above this is a wall with a thin crack leading up to a roof about 3m up.
Notes:
FA: Ian Slatem, J. Brown, C. Mitchell & D. Young, 1987 | 25m | |||
21 | Danger Zone
15m downstream of the 'fall across' tree in Lower Tonquani (and therefore about 15m upstream of 'Old Man's Exit' ) is a smooth shallow recess on the true right. Scramble up this break which becomes a narrow gully with an overhanging upstream wall. Walk up over blocky debris to where the gully steepens. The route follows the obvious steep recess in the upstream wall, starting next to a small tree.
Note: It is advisable for the belayer to creep into the cubbyhole just left of the start, as some of the holds on the pitch sound hollow. FA: Kevin M. Smith, 1987 | 17m | |||
11 | ★ Welcome to the Pleasure Dome
1
11
35m
2
6
35m
Climbs the obvious break immediately upstream of 'The Scream Of The Butterfly', i.e. about 5m downstream of the 'Old Man's Exit'
FA: Kevin Smith & M. Smith, 1989 | 70m, 2 | |||
21 | The Scream of the Butterfly
Climbs the smooth face starting at stream level immediately upstream of the 'Rastaman Vibration' gully on the true right side of the kloof (i.e. about 8m downstream of the 'Old Man's Exit' ).
FA: Kevin M. Smith & M. Smith, 1989 | 15m | |||
20 | Rastaman Vibration
1
20
25m
2
17
40m
Just downstream of the "fallacross" tree in Lower Tonquani is a prominent gully on the right hand side. The route takes the obvious steep left tending crack up the downstream facing wall.
FA: J. Brown & Ian Slatem, 1985 | 65m, 2 | |||
17 | Rolling Stone Buttress
1
6
9m
2
17
12m
3
17
15m
4
17
25m
Start about 70m below 'The Hourglass'. An easily recognisable feature is a deep recess, which ends on an overhang.
FA: Merv Prior & R. Green, 1970 | 61m, 4 | |||
20 | Protobolt
Situated about 300m upstream of the Northern entrance to the kloof. The climb ascends a less than vertical, smooth grey face on the true right of the kloof. The face cannot be missed as two bolts are visible from the stream bed. The pitch is well protected.
FA: T. Rogers & D. Rogers, 1988 | 25m | |||
16 | ★ Universal Scaler
1
10
25m
2
16
30m
This climb starts in the same gully as 'Why Bother!' , but on the right hand side of the gully.
Note: A pleasant exposed climb on good rock. A further pitch may be added by traversing left for 10m, and following the obvious line to the top (9). Alternatively descend into gully by traversing left further, or scramble directly above the ledge to the top of the cliff face. FA: Darryl Margetts & R. Brand, 1986 | 55m, 2 | |||
15 | Why Bother!
1
10
20m
2
15
20m
About 150m upstream of the second wade pool that is found when entering from the lower end of Tonquani kloof (i.e. Utopia), a small gully is encountered on the true right. A large tree is found at the entrance of the gully.
FA: R. Brand & Darryl Margetts, 1986 | 40m, 2 | |||
15 | Inconsequential
Walking in from Utopia, this climb starts just downstream of the second large wade pool at the lower end of Tonquani kloof. It starts on the face just downstream of the short descent/ascent to bypass the second wade pool, and climbs the prominent buttress to the top of the cliff face.
FA: Darryl Margetts & R. Brand, 1986 | 30m | |||
16 | ★ Nice from Far
Scramble up to the start of 'Gnasher' , and then move about 50m upstream along the ledge. Scramble another 20m up a gully.
Note: Loose rock detracts from an otherwise great line. FA: Andrew Porter & Hector Pringle, 2013 | 30m | |||
22 | ★ Dennis the Menace
1
19
23m
2
22
20m
3
13
26m
This route starts about 2m to the left of the start of 'Gnasher' at the obvious crack.
FA: N. Cleaver, Alvin Wood & P. Leicesz, 1982 | 69m, 3 | |||
19 | ★★ Gnasher
1
15
15m
2
19
23m
3
19
22m
Start directly opposite Boulder Kloof on the true left-hand side of Tonquani. Seen from halfway up Boulder Kloof, the route takes a line up a thin crack on a pinkish face. Scramble up a gully from the stream bed, then move out left and up easy rock. Traverse back right to a bushy ledge.
Notes: a) A brilliant route, that is made better by using the direct start of 'Dennis the Menace' , which is the crack immediately below the second pitch. b) Expect to find wasps on this route. Variation: For a direct finish, climb pitch 2 for 18m, where it is possible to move 2m right to belay ledge (tree and block).
FA: Alan Lambert, Alvin Wood & Clive Ward, 1981 | 60m, 3 | |||
19 | ★★ The Dandy
The climb starts from the broad ledge 15m right of 'Gnasher' and 'Dennis the Menace' , and is directly in line with the lower part of Boulder kloof. The climb (marked by cairn) starts in a vague recess and follows a slanting crack, followed by a series of small step-like ledges which tend right.
FA: P.S. Greenfield, Russ Dodding & Tim P. Willmot, 1986 | 20m | |||
18 | ★★ Point Blank
At the junction of Boulder Kloof and Lower Tonquani is the "lunch rock", 14m downstream of this rock is an obvious diagonal crack splitting the steep wall.
FA: Russ Dodding & Tim P. Willmot, 1986 | 15m | |||
8 | Ascension Parting
1
5
25m
2
7
20m
3
7
18m
4
7
22m
5
8
15m
The climb commences about 30m below Boulder Kloof on the left side.
FA: J.P. Heuston, T.E. Thomlinson, H.J. Grissen & K.A. Wright, 1963 | 100m, 5 | |||
17 | One Purl, One Plain
1
17
30m
2
14
30m
Situated about 20m upstream of 'Pullman' i.e. opposite 'Zebop' and 'Can-Can' . Scramble up gully to ledge with downstream-facing corner on its' left hand end.
FA: B. Slater & Stewart Middlemiss, 1986 | 60m, 2 | |||
22 | Party Animal
Upstream and around the corner from 'Big Dreamers Never Die' . Starts at stream level.
FA: Stewart Middlemiss, Kevin M. Smith & Jeremy Colenso, 1988 | 15m | |||
23 | Big Dreamers Never Die
10m upstream of the 'Diagonal Street' wall there is an overhanging buttress split by twin cracks.
FA: Jeremy Colenso, 1988 | 25m | |||
22 | ★★★ Wall Street
Starts 10m left (upstream) of 'Diagonal Street'. Scramble up 10m as for 'Diagonal Street', then move left and scramble up onto some blocks below a steep wall with a crack system splitting it.
FA: Stewart Middlemiss, 1987 | 20m | |||
19 | ★ Icarus Allsorts
1
16
15m
2
19
35m
The objective is the headwall which is the stream-facing wall of the 'Pullman' nose. Scramble up to start of 'Pullman' third pitch and move to the right below an open book of dark rock.
FA: Russ Dodding & Stewart Middlemiss, 1986 | 50m, 2 | |||
17 | Pullman
1
15
18m
2
10
28m
3
17
18m
4
10
12m
The climb is located about 50m downstream of the Boulder / Tonquani junction. A feature is a very prominent 25m vertical crack starting 45m above the stream bed and topped by a massive triangular nose pointing up the kloof.
FA: M. Cramphorn & P. Venter, 1963 | 76m, 4 | |||
20 | Quality Street
The crack left of 'Throgmorton Street' i.e. to the right of 'Wall Street'
FA: Charles Edelstein & G. Murray, 1988 | 15m |