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Upper Tonquani Kloof

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Created 7 weeks ago

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Summary

This is the grandest and most scenic kloof in the Magaliesberg.

Access issues

The Mountain Club of South Africa (MCSA) wholly own Tonquani. Access to non-members is restricted by permits issued by the Johnnesburg section of the MCSA.

For more information on routes, access and permits please see the following websites:

Mountain Club of South Africa (MCSA) http://www.mcsa.org.za/ Look at “Who we are” for the different sections of the MCSA

Mountain Club of South Africa – Johannesburg Section website https://mcsajohannesburg.org/ Click on “Access and Properties” for more information Click on “Contact” to get in touch with the MCSA for more information.

ClimbZA website http://www.climbing.co.za/wiki/South_African_Climbing_Wiki Welcome to the largest & most comprehensive online database of Southern African climbing information.

http://www.climbing.co.za/forum/ A forum site to find climbing partners or to find out more about different climbing areas and climbs.

Where to stay

There is a campsite just above the kloof. The campsite has no facilities. Water is available from the stream all year round.

Ethic

Leave no trace. Monkey cages are installed at the campsite and at the meet spot in the kloof, you are advised to store food items in these to prevent the monkeys from eating it. Please do not leave litter in the cages and please do not feed the monkeys. Bolting is prohibited.

Some content has been provided under license from: © MCSA (MCSA)

Areas

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Routes

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Grade Route
1 13 25m
2 15 20m

About 200m right of AVALANCHE CORNER is a bowed slab with a yellow-brown face on the right.

  1. 25m 13 Climb a slab into a red corner and overhang situated on the right. Traverse out right and up to a ledge.

  2. 20m 15 Traverse left and make an awkward move up over an overhang to a ledge. Climb crack system to top.

FA: H. Vogl & Clive Ward, 1974

1 11 30m
2 16 20m

The climb goes diagonally left up the scooped red face 200m upstream of Reunion Gully. Start 2m to the left of the corner used by BLOODY LEG.

  1. 30m 11 Climb the crack line in the slab for 15m where the rock turns orange and the slab becomes vertical. Traverse 5m left and climb up to the right of a grey rounded blob of rock to gain a ledge. Traverse left and belay in the corner beneath the steep corner.

  2. 20m 16 Climb the steep smooth corner above.

FA: D. Peters, Carl Fatti & G. Moseley, 1982

1 15 28m
2 11 14m

Situated to the right of AVALANCHE CORNER in a prominent red corner, which tends to overhang at the top.

  1. 28m 15 Start 4,5m left of the corner and climb up, moving right and up until a small recess is reached (20m). Care must be taken on some loose rock here. Climb up to a piton on the right wall of the corner (left in place) and then move down 1,5m and traverse out of the corner (going right) past a nose onto a small ledge below a grey face. Climb the face to a stance below some overhangs (tree belay).

  2. 14m 11 Starting right of the tree, climb up the obvious break and traverse left for 4,5m. Climb the red face above to the base of an overhang and traverse into a recess using a good handrail below the overhang. Climb the recess to the top.

FA: T. Hog & T. White, 1974

1 7 4m
2 7 25m
3 5 ?

Above the confluence of the two streams in Tonquani. About 110m east of a landslide on a noticeable formation where the lower half of the rock face projects out of the krantz forming a buttress while the upper half over the same length lags further back thus leaving a terrace which stands well out over high bush on the slope.

  1. 4,5m 7 Up in chimney on left inside corner of buttress then left above chockstone on to easy rock where a good belay is found a few metres higher.

  2. 25m 7 An easy scramble to the terrace over loose boulders. Keep right. This pitch can be started at various points. The object is a horizontal crack leading into a recessed corner on right hand half of face. This corner brings the climber to left end of a ledge which runs across the face 4,5m below the top. Belay.

  3. ?m 5 A walk or crawl to the other end of the ledge and over masses of chockstones to the top.

FA: H. Ruhle, E. Ruhle & T. Lassen, 1937

1 10 25m
2 15 30m

The climb is situated on the left hand end of the krantz which overlooks the upper camp site, immediately to the right of a prominent rock landslide in a right-angled gully. This point is about 90m upstream of Reunion Gully.

  1. 25m 10 Ascend face for 9m keeping close as possible to right hand wall, then move diagonally upwards and left for 15m to a cubby hole beneath overhang.

  2. 30m 15 Move up on to corner overlooking the landslide gully. Climb up slightly overhanging recess and continue up corner until an overhang bars further progress. At this point traverse right on to vertical face and climb to top keeping as far to left as possible. The pitch ends about 3m left of a small tree near the top of the face.

Note:

Care is needed on loose rock at the start of pitch 2.

FA: R. Kinsley, M. Armstrong & J. Billman, 1957

10m upstream of the BEYOND THE VERTICAL gully (obvious corner).

  1. 25m 20 Climb the corner to roof (4m). Peg under roof. Pull through on right and straight up wall above to right of recess. Move left at about 10m and follow obvious crack to top.

FA: Roger Nattrass & Stewart Middlemiss, 1987

Starts 5m left of Bog of Eternal Stench, essentially climbs the pencil crack that is seen from below.

  1. 19, 30m Climb up easily to the small ledge under the dihedral. Climb the right face and crack up to ramp. From the ramp climb the center of the face (avoid the corners on either side) up to a big block and another ledge. Joins up with BOES here to climb the splitter. Climb easily to the top.

Be sure to take small gear with you, nuts and cams.

FA: Ryan McCallum & Kieran Richards, Oct 2019

Start 3m right of CREAM TEAM.

  1. 12m 22 Crank up from a large square hold to just reach a small hold below a small roof. Rail left until able to climb up and back right to larger holds at the base of a short left facing dihedral. Pull up into this and exit right.

FA: K.M. Smith, George Mallory & M. Brunke, 1985

A 2m by 5m roof is situated on the true right wall of Reunion Gully. CREAM TEAM takes the obvious crack up the wall to the left of the roof.

  1. 15m 19 Pull up from a hollow sounding rail to reach small holds and follow the crack to the top.

FA: George mallory, K.M. Smith, M. Smith, M. Brunke & M. Haffner, 1985

Takes the break 1 to 2m left of CREAM TEAM. Start 2m left of CREAM TEAM's undercut base.

  1. 15m 22 Climb a smooth slab to a bottomless cubbyhole beneath a roof. Pull through to a fin. Climb the crack up to the steep wall above, finally stepping right and using the arete to top out.

FA: K.M. Smith, George Mallory & M. Brunke, 1985

Takes the small open book 2,5 meters to the right of JEREMIAH WAS A BULLFROG (cairn).

  1. 23m 14 Climb the broken rock to the base of the crack system in the open book above. Jam up this then stem delicately to clear to the left and ascend to the same stance as used by JEREMIAH WAS A BULLFROG.

FA: Tim P. Willmot & P.J. Duggan, 1992

Takes the layback crack high up, below the square roof some five meters to the right of LITTLE CREATURES (cairn).

  1. 22m 14 Climb the broken rock to start and gain the base of the superb layback type crack above. Stem/layback up this until the square roof is reached. Break right to clear. Ascend the arete to the comfortable belay ledge above.

FA: Tim P. Willmot & P.J. Duggan, 1992

Takes the shallow obvious open book midway between LITTLE CREATURES and JEREMIAH WAS A BULLFROG. Starts behind the gnarled tree (cairn).

  1. 22m 16 Take off with difficulty to gain the 2m layback crack immediately above. Layback up this to reach a good resting ledge above. Move up to gain the distinct open book. Follow this until forced out left. Gain the left arete by delicate maneuvering. Follow the arete to the comfortable belay stance above.

Note:

An excellent short route.

FA: Tim P. Willmot & P.J. Duggan, 1992

Starts at the same place as COMBAT ROCK and takes the obvious open book 4m to the right.

  1. 20m 16 Climb straight up the face to a ledge/rail at 6m. Move right into the corner. Climb the corner.

FA: Mike Cartwright, 1987

Start 4m to the right of LIVING IN THE PAST (cairn).

  1. 20m 19 Climb straight up the face to a ledge at 6m. Balancy moves up right to a peg, then move right to a rest on a nose. Climb straight up above the nose tending slightly left to finish up the steep wall above.

FA: Stewart Middlemiss, Mike Cartwright & Adele Margetts, 1987

Between Reunion gully and the CREAM TEAM gully is an upstream-facing wall about 20m high.

  1. 20m 18 Start in the middle of the face (cairn) and climb the blocky crack to a ledge (6m). Move a meter right and climb up for a few meters until it is possible to move diagonally left to a recess which is followed to the top.

FA: Stewart Middlemiss & Roger Nattrass, 1987

Start 5m to the left of LIVING IN THE PAST at a blunt arete (cairn).

  1. 25m 21 Climb the arete tending right to the ledge (8m). Move up to the rail and move left to the base of the right-tending diagonal crack. Follow this to where it finishes and move 2m left under the roof/overlap. Pull through and climb the wall above.

FA: Stewart Middlemiss, 1987

Climbs the broken looking open book immediately downstream of the arete taken by PARTY GIRL - cairn.

  1. 25m 16 Climb the steep broken open book and clear the small roof on the left. Move up the blocky ground above to reach the steep open book immediately downstream of the PARTY GIRL arete. Climb this and take comfortable stance on top.

Note:

A surprisingly good short route.

FA: Ulrike Kiefer & Tim P. Willmot, 1995

The route follows a line 3m left of Good Time.

Climb the groove to a blocky ledge. Move to the back of the blocky ledge and climb the open book with a fist-sized crack at the top.

FA: Tim P. Willmot & Ulrike Kiefer, 1995

Climbs the obvious broken groove at the right extremity of the blocky wall on the opposite side of the narrow gully containing GOOD TIME and PARTY GIRL - cairn.

  1. 25m 14 Climbs the groove, watch for loose shit here and there. Follow the obvious line to the top.

Note:

Loose in places.

FA: Stewart Middlemiss & I. Schwartz, 1989

Climbs the blocky face to the right of FOAD. Start at the tree.

  1. 25m 16 Climb straight up the middle of the loosish, blocky face moving slightly left to pull through the roof at the top.

Note:

Not recommended.

FA: Stewart Middlemiss & I. Schwartz, 1989

The climb takes the obvious cracked red recess 12m to the right of the Reunion cave.

  1. 20m 17 Start at the base of the recess and climb directly to the overhang which is turned with technique. Easier rock is followed to a stance.

Note:

An old piton three-quarters of the way up to the overhang suggests that the line had been attempted in earlier times.

FA: Kevin Smith & M. Mears, 1982

Takes overhanging recess between AFTER THE GOLDRUSH and FOAD on the Reunion Buttress. Start 3m left of FOAD (cairn).

  1. 35m 19 Climb up blocky face onto slab below overhang. Pull though overhang into recess above, and follow to top. The grade eases to 15 after 20m.

Note:

The presence of an old rusty peg in the easier upper section suggests that a previous party traversed into this upper portion of the recess, or an abseil took place.

FA: Stewart Middlemiss, 1985

1 19 12m
2 15 25m

The route starts from the top of the tapered block forming the right hand side of Reunion cave, and climbs straight up through steep rock.

  1. 12m 19 Climb a slight bulge to footholds beneath the small overhang. Pull through onto easier rock. Move up and step left to stance at base of a recess.

  2. 25m 15 Follow the recess/cracks to the top. (Slightly unsound rock).

FA: Kevin Smith & M. Mears, 1983

1 10 18m
2 12 12m
3 10 15m

Situated about 135m up kloof from Short Gully at the extreme right hand end of the Donkerhoek Buttress. Start just to the left of cave in a steeply sloping recess.

  1. 18m 10 Follow the recess for about 11m until a small overhang is reached. Move out to the right and then continue up to a ledge. Traverse 3,5m right to a stance.

  2. 12m 12 Proceed straight up a crack above the tree until an overhang is reached. A hand hold is available high up in a crack behind the overhang which enables one to lean outward in an exposed position and get round the overhang into a crack on the right where it is possible to move diagonally upwards to the right on to a good platform and tree belay.

  3. 15m 10 Climb a narrow chimney for 4,5m and step out to the left onto the face. Climb straight up over some blocks to the summit beacon.

Variations:

  1. ?m 13 Start the climb next to a red face topped by an overhang on the Reunion Gully side, 30m upstream from normal start. Ascend a crack and then traverse out left (crux) onto the smooth red face. Continue traversing left around corner arriving at stance at top of normal first pitch.

  2. ?m 15 Climb crack system above the overhang. Instead of moving right, continue up the thin crack to top.

  3. 35m 19 Start 3m right of the normal start. Jug haul up a vague recess to the first stance. Continue up variation 2 above, before finishing directly up the steep crack in the final few meters. This variation goes almost directly up the wall.

FA: J. Botha, R. Ruhle & H. Rowland, 1947

Climbs the wall to the right of REUNION SLAB.

  1. 25m 19 Starting on the right of the wall, move up and left onto the wall and then straight on up through the roofs to the rap tree.

FA: Stewart Middlemiss, 1988

1 13 25m
2 5 9m
3 15 15m

Start about 5m downstream of REUNION.

  1. 25m 13 Ascend a smooth but sloping slab, having a wall on its right and an overhang on top. Near the overhang traverse left for 8m to a slight ridge. Ascend this for 9m to a narrow ledge which can be followed to the right to a stance at the first tree.

  2. 9m 5 Traverse right to a stance below a wide recess of red rock.

  3. 15m 15 Ascend the red rock (steep) and traverse out left (mantleshelf) on to easy rock, which is followed to the top. Variation:

  4. 25m 13 Make a small (piton) stance below the slight ridge referred to under first pitch. Continue upwards and to the left into a recess, which is followed to the top. (Obviates pitches 2 and 3.)

FA: W.F. Bright & R.F. Davies, 1950

1 10 22m
2 13 18m

This climb is located on the grey lichen-covered face between REUNION SLAB and DONKERHOEK CORNER. There is plenty of scope for variation in this vicinity.

  1. 22m 10 Start just left of the slab in REUNION SLAB. Ascend grey face bearing slightly left until a ledge is reached with a tree at its left end.

  2. 18m 13 Ascend from right hand end of ledge until the face steepens. Then move right into a somewhat dirty recess. Ascend the recess, or one of its walls, to the top.

FA: D. Lubbe, J. Koorts, T. Rademeyer, R. Erens & G. Viljoen, 1966

1 16 25m
2 11 22m

About 9m to the right of DONKERHOEK CORNER there is a crack running up the face, which becomes a thin slit after 6m. The climb starts 3m to the right of this crack, from a block 4,5m above the base. Once the steep section at the start has been completed a certain amount of variation is possible.

  1. 25m 16 The take-off involves strenuous pull-up moves (crux). Move slightly left to crack up right edge of large firm flake. Ascend about 6m then diagonally up right 6m and then diagonally back left 6m to a good stance at left hand end of ledge (tree).

  2. 22m 11 Continue up the crack directly above the tree. Then halfway up the pitch move diagonally left finishing just left of a bunch of creepers.

FA: J. Koorts, T. Rademeyer, R. Erens, G. Viljoen, J. Anderson & M. Makowski, 1966

The climb starts up the prominent crack about 9m to the right of DONKERHOEK CORNER.

  1. 40m 16 Scramble up to the wide base of the crack. The crux is a few metres up where the crack closes. Continue with the crack until aloes are reached. Move left onto the face and climb more or less straight up to the top, passing a couple of old pegs on the way.

FA: Kevin M. Smith & M. Smith, 1984

Climbs the smooth wall, with two bolts, to the right of STONE NEEDLE.

  1. 15m 25 From the base of STONE NEEDLE climb diagonally right to the first bolt. Climb straight to the top past the second bolt.

FA: Roger Nattrass, 1988

1 20 12m
2 16 25m

Start 3m right of Donkerhoek Corner.

  1. 12m (20) Climb the thin crack to a belay in a recess (shared with Donkerhoek Corner).

  2. 25m (16) Follow the finger crack behind the stance up. Climb left of a tree in the corner to a point below an overhang. Traverse right under overhang and go up right of it. Continue straight up to a grassy ledge. Tree belay.

FA: K.M. Smith & M. Smith., 1984

1 13 12m
2 10 30m

From the point where Donkerhoek Buttress reaches down to stream level, follow the steeply rising ground on its upstream end to a point about 30m from the stream where the rock makes a 90° angle to the right. Climb this corner.

  1. 12m 13. Ascend the corner. Move right at the top to a stance in a recess next to a 2m tall obelisk. (Crux in first 3m)

  2. 30m 10. Move left and continue up broken corner towards the blocky overhang. Traverse left under overhangs across a pleasant red face for about 5m and ascend to the top via a recess at the end of the overhang.

FA: R. Charlton & E. Ruhle, 1952

  1. 45m 16 Start as for DONKERHOEK RECESS. Just before reaching the ledge with the large block, step right onto the face between DONKERHOEK RECESS and DONKERHOEK CORNER. Follow the crack/recess up, passing the vegetation on the right. As the crack veers left towards DONKERHOEK RECESS, continue directly up the face, to reach the leftward traverse of DONKERHOEK CORNER. Finish as for DONKERHOEK CORNER.

Variation: Finish directly at about 15.

FA: Dylan Morgan & Adam Feldman, 2003

1 12 18m
2 7 25m

5m left of Donkerhoek Corner is an undercut hand crack going up diagonally right.

  1. 18m (12) Climb the hand crack below a bulge. Follow the crack to a point where it turns into a large chimney crack above the bulge. Tree belay.

  2. 25m (8) Follow the chimney crack to the top, keeping on the left corner in the middle.

It is also possible to move left onto the face and follow Beetlejuice to the top on excellent gear at grade 10.

FA: H. Barker, 1938

This climb starts 1m to the left of DONKERHOEK RECESS. The climb is marked by a crack running through the overhang to the face above.

  1. 30m 15 Starting 1m to the left of DONKERHOEK RECESS, climb diagonally left, past a small tree to a small stance below an overhang with a crack cutting through it. Climb the crack and pull through the overhang. Climb the face above for 20m exiting slightly left of an overhang.

FA: Darryl Margetts, Martin Seegers, T. Truter & F. Nel, 1989

1 16 8m
2 10 6m
3 12 28m
  1. A steep right-angled corner is climbed until a narrow ledge running off to the left is reached.

  2. Traverse left along the ledge and then ascend a steep corner with good holds to a small stance at the foot of a long flat face. Small bollard for belay.

  3. Traverse right 2m (thin). Ascend the face to the top. exposure is noticeable but grips, although sometimes small, are never lacking.

Pitches 1, 2, and 3 can be climbed as one pitch.

Note: H. Wong etc. made the first ascent of pitch 1. Pitches 2 and 3 were first climbed in Oct 1946 by R. Charlton, E. Pearlstein, and Miss E. Chadwick.

FA: H. Wong, H. Barker & M. Burton, 1939

FA: R. Charlton, E. Pearlstein & Miss E. Chadwick, 1946

When seen from the campsite on the opposite side of the river, the Donkerhoek Buttress features an impressive, light brown coloured slab that faces upstream at right angles to the river. This climb follow the finger crack roughly up the center of this face. Start about the center of the face below a prominent right facing corner.

  1. 45m 20 Climb the right angled corner. At the top of this, step left and pull onto the slab. Pass 2 pegs then climb the very thin crack on small holds up the steep slab to the bulge. Move left and make a hard move over the bulge to gain easier ground.

Note: can be broken in 2 pitches 22m / 22m

FA: N. Cleaver, A. Wood & P. Leicesz, 1982

1 22 15m
2 20 22m
  1. 15m 22 Start about 5m to the left of HYPERADRENIA, under a very steep, shallow open book. Climb directly up the open book to the stance shared with DONKERHOEK FACE.

  2. 22m 20 As for HYPERADRENIA.

Climbs the arete to the right of THE MOKE and continues up the face between the final section of THE MOKE and HYPERADRENIA.

FA: I. Guest & company

Starts on the west facing rock facing upstream of the buttress where THE MOKE and RIGHT CORNER OVERHANG, etc., are situated. The start is beaconed and is about 5m left of the first red open book (topped by a medium-sized tree). i.e. it is on the opposite side of the river to THE MOKE.

  1. 40m 17 Start in the deep chimney-like crack in which a large tree is growing (beacon). Continue up easy grey rock to where rock changes colour to yellow-red and steepens. Above are some small overhangs with a break to the right. Climb the break on good holds to a large ledge. Either stop here or climb to the top of the crag up the easy chimney-crack.

FA: Charles Edelstein & A. Lambert, 1983

Start at the base of a ridge between RIGHT CORNER OVERHANG and DONKERHOEK FACE.

  1. 45m 17 Ascend the long slab next to the ridge up to where the slab steepens. Step right and make an awkward move over a bulge to gain the slab above. Move up left to the base of a steep open book and after a difficult initial move continue up the crack to a small overhang. Pass to the right of this and move up left to finish or climb thin crack system on face above.

The left finish is in fact the old variation of DONKERHOEK FACE which moves diagonally left from the top of pitch 2 of that climb.

The right finish in the centre (A.D. Barley and R.P. Barley 8 Mar 1969) provides fine exposed climbing.

FA: 1970

A line below THE MOKE.

  1. 15m 24 Start below the right bolt. Move up to the bolt and then traverse to the second bolt. Follow the seam to the rail and step left to follow a second seam until it joins THE MOKE.

FA: Roger Nattrass, 1988

A variation of THE GREAT DOG DETECTIVE.

  1. 5m 23 From the first bolt continue straight up to the rail without traversing. Exit right at the rail.

FA: Roger Nattrass, 1988

1 13 15m
2 15 25m

Downstream of Short Gully is a buttress that projects out to the stream. The climb starts at the right hand edge of the projecting face that reaches into the stream. There is a thin (20cm) tall three growing right next to the arete, rubbing against it a few meters higher.

  1. 15m (13) Easily climb up the face just left of the arete. (Protection is not great here - wrap a sling around the tree). Climb into corner above the tree and continue up to the eye-hole belay.

  2. 25m (15) From the eye hole, continue up on sloping face tending right. Traverse 1m right just above roof. Continue up on good holds tending slight left. Move left into corner (crux) and continue a few meters higher. Traverse left and around the corner with fingers in good crimpy rail and feet just above the roof. Continue up on sloping face tending right and climb out just above the overhangs.

The climb is usually done in one pitch but communication is difficult over the noise of the stream from the top. The eye-hole belay is small and uncomfortable for more than one 2nd.

FA: D. Gillham, L. Schaff, M. de Villiers & B. Russel, 1949

To the left of KALAHARI and about 20m above the river is a ledge with a big block. Directly above this is a short, overhanging wall with a flaring crack. Scramble up to the ledge. Boulder out the steep wall and crack and continue up the easy slab to the tree. Rap off. Fun moves but very short.

FA: Hector Pringle & Nicholas Grech-Cumbo, 8 Apr 2012

1 15 17m
2 16 20m

Start from a boulder in the stream between RIGHT CORNER OVERHANG and RIGHT CORNER CRAG.

  1. 17m 15 Step across into a shallow slanting groove with a corner crack (the right hand one). Follow this to its end (8m) and swing right and up right to the overhang. Pass to the right of this and then move left to flat ridge and up the ridge using flake to a small stance and peg belay below the overhang. (This stance is on the traverse of RIGHT CORNER CRAG.)

  2. 20m 16 Ascend the steep crack at the right end of the overhang and continue by strenuous climbing up past a detached block (seems safe) to the next overhang (piton). Swing left on to the nose then up right on small holds to top.

FA: M. Makowski & S. Cramphorn, 1963

FA: A.D. Barley & Miss M. van Steenderen, 1969

1 18 20m
2 19 30m

The route begins in the recess just to the left of KALAHARI, "steals" about 6m of RIGHT CORNER OVERHANG and then branches off right from RIGHT CORNER OVERHANG to take the steep lay-back/jam crack instead of continuing up to the smooth face of RIGHT CORNER OVERHANG.

  1. 20m 18 Climb the recess up to the overhang. Step right onto the arete, up 3m to a handrail and then left to a point just above the overhang. Up to the ledge and stance at the chockstone eye-hole common with RIGHT CORNER CRAG (old peg).

  2. 30m 19 Continue up diagonally right as for RIGHT CORNER OVERHANG to the Y-junction made by RIGHT CORNER OVERHANG (left arm of Y) and the lay-away/jam crack. Strenuous climbing but good nuts brings you to the overhang topping the crack and a difficult move round the corner brings you into a steep but easy crack. Continue to the top and a stance common with THE MOKE.

Note: Often climbed as a single pitch, using the start of RIGHT CORNER OVERHANG to avoid the belay in the river.

FA: P. Brunswick & Charles Edelstein, 1983

1 14 23m
2 13 11m
3 5 15m

This route is on the same buttress immediately downstream of RIGHT CORNER OVERHANG. It commences at the foot of a recess which slopes up from right to left.

  1. 23m 14 Ascend the recess to a point immediately beneath large overhang. Traverse 6m right beneath the overhang to eye hole stance at the top of pitch 1 of RIGHT CORNER OVERHANG. The difficulty arises in making the final move onto the stance.

  2. 11m 13 Ascend the steep shallow crack slightly to left of eye-hole until forced to left by overhang onto an exposed grey slab. Ascend the grey slab near its left (outer) edge to easy rock.

  3. 15m 5 Continue directly up to grassy ledge with large stamvrug tree.

FA: T. Bright & E. Scholes, 1948

1 13 25m
2 14 10m

Start 4,5m left of RIGHT CORNER CRAG next to a niche.

  1. 25m 13 Ascend the wall on good holds to a ledge below a huge flake which reaches up to the overhang. Ascend the flake crack at the right hand side to the overhang, then traverse to the left hand top of the flake.

  2. 10m 14 Pull over the bulge on good holds. Continue up the rib to a ledge and tree belay.

FA: R.W. Charlton & D. Liddle, 1955

1 13 25m
2 17 30m
3 13 45m
4 10 40m
5 13 30m
6 15 30m

This route is a girdle of the upper part of Tonquani, on good and clean rock, starting with the first pitch of RIGHT CORNER CRAG.

  1. 25m 13 Climb up to the eye-hole stance of RIGHT CORNER CRAG.

  2. 30m 17,A2 Climb the second pitch of RIGHT CORNER OVERHANG to fix a good sling point as high as possible for a pendulum to the right. Climb down to start of the steep section, then pendulum to the right with difficulty, until a tape sling can be fitted to a small flake. Aid to the right (two pitons in place) descending into a recess. Climb the recess free 2m, then descending slightly at first, make a delicate traverse to the right to reach a crack. Make a pull-up to a stance on the right. This stance is below the step over of DONKERHOEK FACE.

  3. 45m 13 Follow DONKERHOEK FACE past the stepover, continue diagonally right into DONKERHOEK RECESS which is climbed 10m, to the end of the little traverse of DONKERHOEK CORNER. Reverse the traverse and descend 3m to a stance on a tree.

  4. 40m 10 Traverse around the corner to the right 30m until a higher ledge can be gained. Continue right to a good tree.

  5. 30m 13 Traverse right 3m and climb the steep crack in the red face until it is possible to move over to the right on a handrail. This is the steep face mentioned in pitch 3 of REUNION SLAB. Continue right passing below the crux of REUNION to a good stance.

  6. 30m 15 Climb down 2m and move awkwardly around a ridge to the right into a V-shaped chimney. Climb up 2m to exit out to the right.

FA: H. Boshoff & E. Haber, 1976

About one third of the way down short gully there is a projecting nose of rock with a poorly defined corner on the upstream side.

  1. 10m 19 Pull through the overhang on good holds and climb to the top of the crag.

FA: Martin Seegers & Darryl Margetts, 1990

The route is situated approximately halfway down Short Gully and starts 2m right of MIKE'S DESPAIR. Commence at the foot of the grey slab below the narrow crack system and climb straight up. The route crosses MIKE'S DESPAIR at its first stance.

  1. 35m 18 Climb the grey slab using the crack system for small protection. Mantle onto whoever is occupying the first stance of MIKE'S DESPAIR and break through the roof behind. Continue up to gain the open book behind. Follow the right-leaning #3.5 friend crack to the top.

Note:

The slab is excellent thin face climbing.

FA: Tim P. Willmot & P.S. Greenfield, 1986

1 13 20m
2 10 15m

The route is situated right of CONCERTINA, halfway up Short Gully, on the true right hand side, about 10m downstream from a prominent overhang-cave. The climb starts at the foot of a large grey downstream facing slab, in front of which grows a twin-trunked tree.

  1. 20m 13 Climb straight up the thin crack/recess for about 12m then move diagonally right and over broken rock to choice of stances.

  2. 15m 10 Move up to and climb a slightly overhanging open book recess on excellent holds, to reach the top.

FA: M. Brokenshire, A. Cuthbertson & Kevin M. Smith, 1976

1 11 21m
2 8 12m

Commences halfway down Short Gully on right hand side.

  1. 21m 11 Straight up on corner for 9m then diagonally up towards right to foot of recess.

  2. 12m 8 Climb in the corner between slightly overhanging walls.

FA: T. Louw & W. Curle, 1948

Starts on right hand side of boulder problem mentioned in LOBSTER POT, the line follows the steep V groove on the buttress above.

  1. 20m 16 Climb up easy ground, past ledge with loose blocks to V-groove. Follow groove to, top passing small roof half way up.

FA: Stewart Middlemiss & Adele Margetts, 1986

Starts on left hand side of popular boulder problem in gully i.e. approximately 20m up from MANHATTAN.

  1. 30m 17 Pull up onto ledge and climb up onto second small ledge (4m). Stretch across smooth wall on right and pull up on small jugs into open book above (tree). Follow open book to steep but easy face which is followed to top.

FA: Peter Lazarus & Stewart Middlemiss, 1986

Starts up open book 4m to right of MANHATTAN.

  1. 30m 17 Climb open book, moving left to crack when threatened by bulge. Move immediately back right and pull to right through roof. Follow easy arete above to top.

FA: 1986

The climb is situated about 6m to the right of LEFT CORNER CHIMNEY.

  1. 30m 13 Up crack on left of large jutting undercut nose. Continue up crack and ascend open book directly above for about 9m until it is possible to move out right and up.

FA: M. Makowski & J. Anderson, 1963

1 9 23m
2 8 18m

Starts 25 to 30m up Short Gully from LEFT CORNER.

  1. 23m 9 Ease into narrowing vertical chimney on good handholds through overhanging tight section, then 4,5m higher and out of chimney to right and up to good belay on bush.

  2. 18m 8 On vertical rock 6m to horizontal crack then traverse left to top stance of LEFT CORNER.

FA: J. Plekker, K. Ruhle & E. Ruhle, 1945

1 7 18m
2 7 25m
3 6 15m

The ridge or buttress forming the downstream boundary of Short Gully.

  1. 18m 7 Follow the corner ridge to the first belay point on a block. An alternative route to this point commences about 6m downstream from the corner.

  2. 25m 7 Continue on the line of the ridge bearing slightly left into shallow recess then up a crack for about 4,5m to another block belay.

  3. 15m 6 Scramble to top.

FA: P. Houmoller, 1938

Commences in an obvious recess or crack at ground level at the traditional meet point. Above this point a number of grade 8 routes present themselves.

FA: G. Potter & B. Harris, 1937

1 20 15m
2 15 20m
3 8 45m

This is a pleasant unsustained route ideal for climbers new to this grade. Start 4m upstream and around the corner to BROKEN CORNER.

  1. 15m 20 Climb up on good grips until an off-balance position on a ledge is reached. Above are two crack systems. Avoid the crack system in the corner to the right and climb the crack up the centre of the overhang to easier rock above. Continue up to a good ledge shared with SIMIAN STREET.

  2. 20m 15 Traverse right for 2 to 3m and then ascend the face moving diagonally right until forced right into the corner shared with BROKEN CORNER (second pitch). Continue up this corner to a ledge. Instead of moving right as in BROKEN CORNER, move left into a recess. Climb up this corner to a good ledge and tree belay.

  3. 45m 8 Climb up recess above stance to a point where you can move left onto an exposed ridge. Continue up nondescript rock to the top of the crag.

Variation:

  1. 15m 15 Climb up to ledge as in the normal route. Step right into a corner which is followed to the same ledge as the end of the normal pitch one.

FA: Neil Margetts, Darryl Margetts & G. Lainis, 1987

1 18 12m
2 13 20m
3 7 25m

The route starts immediately right of the original first pitch of RED CORNER, i.e. at the foot of the right-angled corner which defines the latter route.

  1. 12m 18 Start in cave-like recess at the bottom of the corner. After successive pull-ups on fair grips diagonally up to the right a resting spot is reached on the steep face. Alternatively tall climbers can straddle up the corner i.e. RED CORNER, and after 3m make a wide step across and swing on to the face. From the resting spot move diagonally right to a platform stance on the outer corner.

  2. 20m 13 Traverse 4m right to recess. Climb recess to ledge and tree belay.

  3. 25m 7 Continue up the recess to top.

Variation:

By starting at the base of the second pitch crack, the first pitch and the traverse of the second pitch are avoided (13).

FA: D. Lubbe, J. Kruger & Miss E. Furst, 1964

1 18 12m
2 21 24m
3 13 23m
  1. 12m 18 As for BROKEN CORNER.

  2. 24m 21 Bridge up over the bulge on the left and climb directly to the crack. Follow this past a small overhang and continue to the large overhang above. Step left to steep groove which leads to a niche (peg runner). From crouching position in the niche traverse right until good holds lead up to grassy ledge. A sustained pitch.

  3. 23m 13 Climb the wall above and make a move right which leads to easy ground.

FA: Clive Ward & J. Holding, 1981

FFA: Kevin Smith, 1982

1 19 18m
2 22 25m

The climb is situated on the true right-hand side of the kloof and takes the line through the roofs immediately right of RED CORNER, to provide outstanding, sustained climbing on good rock with mind boggling exposure. The climbing is bold but protection is excellent.

  1. 18m 19 The pitch starts on the extreme right hand side (upstream side) of the large ledge from which the climbing on RED CORNER also begins. Step right into the crack and move up to a small cubbyhole below a small roof. Make committing moves through this and onto the steep face above. Move up left to the large roof and make delicate moves left onto good jugs, then pull up onto a small ledge in a cubbyhole. (The stance is at the same point where one steps right before moving up to the roof on RED CORNER.)

  2. 25m 22 From the stance move up onto the arete 4m left of SIMIAN STREET. Climb the arete to the roof, pull strenuously through and continue up the short crack in the corner above to another roof. Move right around this onto a small ledge. Climb the short crack up the face immediately above, scarily to the top to gain a massive big ledge.

FA: Peter Lazarus & Stewart Middlemiss, 1987

1 12 6m
2 17 18m
3 17 14m
4 17 11m

The climb lies up a steep reddish coloured corner about 60m upstream of TONQUANI RIDGE and just downstream of the meet spot. From the corner downstream, as far as the climb HAWK'S EYE, there is a steep white face which is topped by a containing overhang. The route follows the recess until say 9m from this overhang and then goes right on to broken vegetated rock, where the climbing ends.

  1. 6m 12 Ascend in corner to a grassy ledge. A scrambling route to this ledge exists a short distance to the left.

  2. 18m 17 Ascend 4,5m in left of corner, make a delicate traverse 2m to right on to right side of corner. Continue up to an overhang and then traverse left out of the corner on to a narrow rock ledge. (Piton belay.)

  3. 14m 17 Go back into corner. Climb up very steep red face in left of corner to a small stance with piton and chockstone belay.

  4. 11m 17 Continue up corner. Climbing is less steep, but delicate. Traverse right from corner where it steepens to stance on broken easy rock.

Note:

The route is exposed, stances small and belays not obvious. Time on first ascent (1937) 3 hours.

Variation:

2a. 11 Instead of pitch 2 above which is probably the most severe pitch of the climb, one can climb a face to the left and traverse right on to the narrow ledge with piton belay.

FA: R. Barry & C. Gebhardt, 1937

The climb starts at the big tree at the step-down from KITCHEN CORNER to the RED CORNER platform. It follows the obvious line up a shallow recess to a small chimney which cuts the red-brown overhang.

  1. 30m 15 Move delicately up and left on small holds up a smooth face. Continue upward about 5m, then move right towards a small arete and gulley. Climb the arete (or gulley) to a small tree and continue to a ledge below the red-brown overhang.

  2. 40m 14 Move 2m left to the base of the brown crack. Climb the crack past a small tree to a ledge. Continue up the broken face to a large ledge. Scramble 5m up open book to the top.

FA: Merv Prior & J. Ball, 1999

1 13 20m
2 19 18m
3 17 20m

Scramble up the short wall to a grassy ledge, left of RED CORNER. Start at the left of 2 short recesses.

  1. 20m 13 Climb the left-hand recess until it is possible to move into the right hand recess. Follow this to a ledge and move right to where a higher traverse line can be reached (old piton in place). Traverse left and climb a bulge to a ledge.

  2. 18m 19 Ascend the wall above and gain the bottomless corner crack. Climb this through a small overhang, above which elephant's ears lead to a mantleshelf out on the left. Belay on this small stance.

  3. 20m 17 Scramble over the belayer and climb up to the overhang, then traverse right below this. Finish up the last few meters of RED CORNER.

Note:

The lack of good gear at the 2nd stance will most likely convince you to merge pitches 2 & 3.

Variation:

Originally a 3m traverse right was made at the height of the mantleshelf on pitch 2, to the obvious ledge (20). From there, a grade 15 move was done to join the right-traverse below the large roof.

3a. 22m 20,A2 (The Monkey Puzzle pitch) From the small belay ledge make an awkward move up over the bulge. Move up and right passing just to the left of a big block. Climb straight up to reach the jam crack at the base of the roof. (Piton protection on wall due to loose rock) Traverse left under the roof until in a position to layback up its side. Move right and gain a position on the ledge (strenuous). Use 2 aid points to move to the lip of the overhang where a pull-up enables one to stand on the horn. Scrambling leads to a stance. (May 1982 N. Cleaver and A. Wood.)

FA: J. Holding & Clive Ward, 1981

1 20 30m
2 21 20m

Between HAWK'S EYE and RED CORNER is a steep wall capped by roofs. In the centre of the wall is a 6m high corner which starts fairly high up. There is a line 3m left of the corner which is MONKEY MUSIC. PUMPING GIBBON gains this layback corner and climbs the roofs directly above. Scramble up about 15m to a suitable stance below corner.

  1. 30m 20 Face climb diagonally right then back left to the base of the corner. Exit left at the top of the corner to stance awkwardly 1m left.

  2. 20m 21 Climb straight up to a hanging white block. Traverse 2m left, surmount the block and pull through the final roof on the right. An aid peg provides good protection for the crux.

FA: George Mallory

Takes a fairly direct slanting line from just left of the PUMPING GIBBON start to top of RED CORNER.

  1. 45m 19 Starting 1 to 2m left of PUMPING GIBBON, ascend the arete directly up to a stance (15m 17). Here the climb crosses PUMPING GIBBON, continuing up just to the right of it for 5m before traversing 6m right below the smooth ramp. On the right hand edge of this slab (about 4m left of RED CORNER) climb up to reach a stance below a short open book (15m 19). Ascend this towards the overhang before traversing right along PUMPING GIBBON (15m 16).

FA: Ian Slatem & Clive Curson, 1985

1 20 25m
2 20 20m

The route climbs the line 3 metres left of PUMPING GIBBON i.e. between HAWK'S EYE and RED CORNER. Scramble up towards HAWK'S EYE’s start and stance at two square blocks.

  1. 25m 20 Climb up 2m before traversing 2m right. Mantleshelf then continue up towards the PUMPING GIBBON open book. From the resting place here move 2m left and climb the crack to a semi-hanging stance 7m below the large roof.

  2. 20m 20,A1 Climb up to the roof and traverse delicately left to where a nut can be used to aid further across the smooth face. Continue up to the top.

FA: George Mallory & Steven Mallory, 1984

Follows the left hand dihedral/crack system which cuts the crag immediately left of MONKEY MUSIC and PUMPING GIBBON. Scramble up bushy grey rock to a small ledge at the base of the narrow lower dihedral.

  1. 30m 22 Climb the dihedral and continue up to a rest below the final left-leaning open book. Traverse left and climb up to a good hold, then climb diagonally right towards the top of the open book, where an overhang is turned and easier rock is followed to the summit.

Note:

The protection on this pitch is sparse and unreliable.

FA: Kevin M. Smith & George Mallory, 1984

1 5 30m
2 13 30m
3 13 15m

This route ascends an easy, pleasant line between TONQUANI RIDGE and RED CORNER. Scramble up to the ledge a few meters above stream level, just downstream of the meet spot.

  1. 30m 5 Climbing up the leftwards sloping ramp which starts a few metres left of RED CORNER, until at the tree just below the roofs. Traverse 4m left to a belay.

  2. 30m 13 Traverse 5m left around corner and ascend 22m. Traverse right to a large stance below an overhang.

  3. 15m 13 Traverses right, and through or outside an "eye" in the rock on the right from which an easy ledge is reached which can be followed to the right to reach a great abseil tree.

Note: Originally climbed in an almost direct and vegetated line keeping some 9m to the right of TONQUANI CRACK. Start about 9m above the pool at the bottom of which is the start of TONQUANI RIDGE. After 30m, a traverse right led to the tree.

Variations:

3a. 15m 15 From the eye stance traverse 9m left over smooth reddish slab and then ascend to the top.

3b. 15m 13 A further alternative after passing through the eye is to climb the recess above, then hand-traverse left and climb up to top.

FA: R. Barry & J. Langmore, 1937

Climbs the steep wall directly below the abseil tree at the end of HAWKSEYE. Scramble as per HAWKSEYE and belay from the large platform directly below the tree.

  1. 30m 23R Climb the obtuse open book until able to step right to a crack. Make a tricky move to gain the hand crack in white rock. Crank through the roof above to a rest ledge on the left. Climb steep jugs to a wedged prong. Surmount the prong and place a nest of micros in a rail on the left. Step left and climb the tricky face to a short, right-facing open book with another prong above and to the right. Layback up and right and then climb back left to jugs. Climb easy but run-out jugs to the top.

Note: Small cams and wires (especially a good selection of micros) are useful. Runout but gear is solid

FA: Hector Pringle & Bernard Spies, 2008

Ascends the wall almost directly beneath the HAWKS EYE abseil tree. It is right of TALONS and just left of ACCIPITER. Scramble up to belay from the big platform directly below the abseil tree.

  1. 30m 24R Climb the slab on the left as for HAWKS EYE until able to step right to a left facing corner crack beneath the biggest, upper roof. Swing right to the prow above the smaller, lower roof and climb up to the big roof. Suck it up to pull leftwards through the widest part. Stay calm in the recess above because you still have to pull straight up through two overlaps to get to the jugs. Don't screw up the last 10m to the tree.

Note: Protection on this route is poor.

FA: Hector Pringle, 5 Feb 2012

1 22 12m
2 19 25m

Directly below HAWK'S EYE, the line can be plainly seen. Climb HAWK'S EYE as far as the belay below the 13 pitch.

  1. 12m 22 Climb up right to a tree then hand-traverse left to lip of the roof. Quickly pull through the roof until one can stand in a relatively comfortable position on the wall between the two overhangs. Traverse right and pull into a recess, above which a small but good hanging belay can be made.

  2. 25m 19 Step out right and up into the corner. Climb this and finish as for HAWK'S EYE direct.

FA: A. Wood & Clive Ward, 1982

FFA: A. Wood & N. Cleaver, 1982

1 13 45m
2 15 45m

The climb starts on a small ledge in a recess above a pool above a waterfall. Cross the stream at the top of the waterfall and walk right for 3m against the wall to the ledge (footholds may be just under the water if the water level is high). The ledge is about 1m above the stream. The climb follows the crack all the way to the top.

  1. 45m (13) Above the waterfall climb up inward flaring jam crack to ledge with tree. Climb into the small cave and out right at the top. Follow the corner to a large ledge with an overhang and the Burton Memorial.

  2. 45m (15) Climb up the overhang and out on the right (crux). Follow the crack, and later a short chimney, to the top.

Note: An excellent grade 13 variation is to climb Tonquani Crack to the Burton Memorial and then Tonquani Ridge from that point. This involves walking left on a horizontal tree from the memorial which is now fairly rotten. This linkup can also be done by traversing left on good holds a few meters above the crux of pitch 2.

FA: D. Abercrombie, C. Nicholls, J. Langmore & C. Gebhardt, 1938

1 17 15m
2 15 25m
3 15 25m

The rib immediately left of TONQUANI CRACK is ascended directly with a finish independent of TONQUANI RIDGE, though the finish to the latter is more in line. Starts at the base of TONQUANI CRACK.

  1. 15m 17 Ascend the rib immediately left of the crack with an awkward move at 4,5m. Continue up the overhanging crack in the left corner to a small stance and tree belay.

  2. 25m 15 Traverse left onto the face and move up to the crack in the centre. Follow the crack with an awkward move over a bulge, to a ledge. Move left and up into a shallow chimney capped by a block. Surmount the blocks with difficulty and continue up the crack line to stance and chockstone or peg belay.

  3. 25m 15 Ascend the overhanging rib above using good holds (strenuous and spectacular) to a large ledge at the base of TONQUANI RIDGE final pitch. This would be a true finish but the following is independent: Traverse right and ascend to huge chockstone. Surmount this and move right across a chimney to a tree belay near the top.

Variation:

The first pitch of RIB TICKLER as written up ascends the rib between SUPERRAMP and TONQUANI CRACK (about 4m apart) and is devoid of protection. This pitch is well protected, and a more direct line. Start 7m left of RIB TICKLER (i.e. 4m left of SUPERRAMP).

  1. 20m 17 Climb broader crack/incut holds through bulge and onto face above. Follow face above to join second pitch of RIB TICKLER as it traverses left onto the face. (Apr 1986 S. Middlemiss and A. Margetts)

FA: A.C. Carmen & Miss E. van Dyke, 1968

1 9 18m
2 13 25m
3 10 12m
4 11 22m
5 13 25m

Commences on top of a waterfall about 3m high close to the rock face above a pool about 9m upstream from the start of FENG'S FOLLY.

  1. 18m 9 Traverse left from top of waterfall for 9m, then climb 6m up crack to tree.

  2. 25m 13 Step across an awkward gap immediately above the stance and traverse right across an exposed grey face as far as possible. Ascend 9m on thin holds to a tree growing in the crack on the right hand side of the ridge.

  3. 12m 10 Climb the face to the left of the crack to a wide stance under a large overhanging recess (Burton Memorial here).

  4. 22m 11 Step off from the tree on left immediately below the corner and ascend on face 6m then bear left to the outer edge and ascend a further 3m before traversing in to right, finishing up a short crack through an overhang to a narrow ledge of blocks.

  5. 25m 13 Move from stance up to left to exposed crest of ridge. Ascend this ridge and pass through crack in overhang at top to complete the climb.

Variation:

  1. 10 From the top of the first pitch of FENG'S FOLLY, scramble up grass ledge to the right leading to a stance on a large block below a 6m face. From here traverse on rock to the right, finishing up at the tree in the crack at the top of the second pitch of the original direct route.

FA: J. Langmore, G. von Grunewald & D. Abercrombie, 1937

1 21 40m
2 19 40m

The climb follows the old aid route CRIB, but the last section may be climbed independent of the adjacent climbs.

  1. 40m 21 Start 7-8m downstream from TONQUANI CRACK. Climb the thin crack slanting left up over a small bulge, through a grey face to a large ledge.

  2. 40m 19 Ascend the steep wall, keeping 2 to 6m right of the HIGHWAY crack, and left of the overhang at the top.

Notes:

The first twenty metres of this climb rates 5 stars with ultra-thin climbing and great spectator participation possibilities! One may easily down climb via TONQUANI CRACK.

FA: J. Linke & Clive Ward, 1975

FFA: J. Wright & Clive Curson, 1985

1 15 20m
2 11 20m

This climb starts from the top of the first pitch OF FENG'S FOLLY. It follows the line of the recess to the left of TONQUANI RIDGE starting 20 to 30m to the left thereof.

  1. 20m 15 Follow the crack for 4,5m to a small ledge under an overhang. Traverse slightly to the left and climb a thin yellow face, passing a small tree on the left. Follow crack to a small stance.

  2. 20m 11 Continue up crack to finish. Alternatively a pleasant 15 variation can be made by diverging to the right from a cubby hole on to a steep face on the downstream side of the ridge.

FA: F. Villa & D. Mitchell, 1949

1 11 15m
2 6 25m
3 11 15m

Commences in a prominent recess starting from stream level about 9m downstream of the start of TONQUANI RIDGE. The recess is topped by a sloping ledge with a large tree on the edge of the recess.

  1. 15m 11 Cross the stream to rock ledge then scramble up 4,5m to commencement of crack in recess. Follow route up recess slightly to right at top of grass ledge and large tree.

  2. 25m 6 Bear left up crack making for obvious recess up which the climb continues.

  3. 15m 11 The final pitch goes up the chimney (watch out for loose rock) which leads to the summit.

Variation:

3a. 13 Ascend a few metres in the final chimney and then traverse right across a face for 18m. This traverse leads to an undercut buttress which is ascended until easier rock is reached at the top. (1954 H. Barker)

FA: M. Fenger & H. Barker, 1933

1 15 22m
2 10 9m
3 6 22m
4 16 24m

The climb commences halfway along the face between the start of TONQUANI RIDGE and COFFIN, to the right of a shallow recess with a triangular cubby hole 6m up. The route makes for the right hand end of the large overhang to the right of COFFIN. It passes to the right of this overhang and ascends the face standing out from the kloof wall at 90o.

  1. 22m 15 Commence below and to the right of the triangular cubby hole and work into it, bypassing it on the left, then traversing to the right above it, and ascending 12m to a grassy stance and small tree.

  2. 9m 10 Climb a small buttress immediately above.

  3. 22m 6 Walk 6m to right and climb a long grey ridge to a ledge and tree.

  4. 24m 16 From the tree climb a crack in the centre of the prominent exposed face on the left of FENG'S FOLLY chimney. The crux move is the final one of the climb, requiring a long arm pull into a rather dirty cubby hole.

FA: J. Botha, 1942

1 19 40m
2 24 25m
3 21 30m

This 'adventure style' route takes a line through the roofs right of ZAP and LAST RITES.

  1. 40m 19 Start on a large boulder about 10m right of LAST RITES and follow the easy break to the right hand side of the green face above. Climb the face going diagonally left to a rotten pillar/block. (Gear is min).

  2. 25m 24,A1 Move right into the book above and past a roof (bolt is a bitch to clip). Step onto ramp above roof, (yellow dot on the nose of the roof), and follow the pegs to a second bolt (near the off-width crack in the next roof). An aid move is required here. Finish slightly left above a peg in a small ledge.

  3. 30m 21 Go hard right on the white (bat) ledge. (It makes good sense to empty your rack into the crack at this juncture.) Move up on a small hold and traverse to the arete keeping low. Climb the arete to the roofs above and wind through to the top.

FA: S. Isebeck, D. Neethling, C. Leslie-Smith & Chris Lomax, 1989

  1. 45m 24 Start as for NAVIGATOR TO HEAVEN, then left into small recess. Break left and up to small ledge. Climb centre of wall above and through more roofs to finish at notch at highest point of crags.

FA: Mike Cartwright, 1991

No route description available.

FA: T. Holt & D. Hartley

1 17 32m
2 20 25m
3 19 25m

Starts halfway between COFFIN and the very large boulder about 30m upstream.

  1. 32m 17 Climb the face a few metres right of the obvious-looking corner for 10m and continue right up a series of minor ramps to the ledge. Traverse right along ledge for 7m. Belay below an undercut corner which leads to a ledge 5m above.

  2. 25m 20 Gain the ledge 5m above via some strenuous moves (20) or use a shoulder. Traverse 5m left to a smooth corner and climb this to the overhang. Climb up right using undercut layback grips to the overhang, then traverse right to easier ground. Continue to belay on shattered blocks. 3a. 25m 19 Traverse left around the corner and continue on a long horizontal traverse with a few precarious moves to gain the foot-rail traverse of LAST RITES and the traverse line of COFFIN.

Notes: The climb is not complete in itself as it uses the finish of other climbs, but it is included on its merits, as was the case with LAST RITES.

Variation:

3b. 20m 11 Traverse horizontally right across the smooth slab and continue up to the start of the final pitches of TONQUANI TRIANGLE and FENG'S FOLLY.

FA: D. Peters & M. Arsenjevic

FA: J. Levy, P. Fatti & D. Peters, 1982

1 17 20m
2 18 22m
3 19 12m
4 10 22m
  1. only 1 protection piece around 15m, then stance at 30.

FA: A.D. Barley & R.P. Barley, 1969

Essentially an alternative to the crux pitch of LAST RITES. Climb LAST RITES to take a semi-hanging stance at the COFFIN rail. This is the rail about 4m above the final roof on the 2nd pitch of LAST RITES.

  1. 20m 21 Step left onto the slab and climb the groove to where it dies. Step left to a pencil crack and climb this to jugs at the left end of the LAST RITES crux traverse. Up to belay at the small tree.

Note:

  1. Small cams and wires are useful.

FA: Hector Pringle, Bernard Spies & Linda Watson, 2008

1 16 30m
2 12 28m
3 14 25m
4 10 30m

The climb has as its objective the ascent of the prominent undercut grey buttress lying to the left of FENG'S FOLLY. When viewed from up the kloof the grey buttress is seen as a detached mass, the wide crack separating it from the main crag being occupied by a large coffin-shaped slab of rock. Start immediately below the chimney in the corner where the grey buttress abuts against the face.

  1. 30m 16 Climb the wall to the right of the chimney to a ledge. Fall across or straddle into chimney, then ascend this until entry can be made to the cave behind.

  2. 28m 12 Follow cave right through to its exit on far side of buttress overlooking the bathing pool and lunch spot. (bat manure) Chimney inside the cave over a series of slippery ledges towards a shaft of light coming from the right. A tight squeeze through a vertical slit leads to a stance in fresh air.

  3. 25m 14 Descend the crack between buttress and coffin for 6m and traverse left on good but very exposed ledge for 4,5m across the face of the buttress immediately above the undercut portion. This ledge peters out, but the same line may be continued on small holds for 3m when the ledge widens out again near the edge of the buttress. Climb a crack and face for 11m to a stance which gives a good belay for the traverse.

  4. 30m 10 Ascend lichen covered rocks on buttress until reddish overhangs are reached. Traverse right for about 6m, then continue to top. Note: Second pitch - grading depends on condition of cave-like chimney. Light conditions can be very poor in the chimney. Take a headlamp, a shovel and a mask. Bat guano gallore.

FA: R. Barry, J. Jennings, C. Bubole, C. Gebhardt, F. Collet & G. Potter, 1937

The stepped crack line up the front (stream-side) of the COFFIN buttress. Scramble to ledges about 10m up.

  1. 25m 22 Step right, climb up to and negotiate the short dihedral (piton). Traverse right, climb the down ward-flaring crack and continue to beneath the final overhangs. Break through on the right, and climb more easily to a stance.

Notes:

  1. Scramble to top.

  2. ALCHEMY follows the line of the old aid route ROCK SPIRIT.

FA: J. Linke & Clive Ward, 1975

  1. 40m 22 Climb 40m of capey climbing on excellent rock.

FA: Peter Lazarus, 1990

From the top of the first pitch of SEPULCHRE continue up the steep crack referred to under that climb. This is the crack running up the face immediately right of the SEPULCHRE cleft. It leans to the left all the way. The crux consists of a move over a bulge into the crack near the start. Near the top of the crack traverse right onto a grey face where the difficulty reduces, and ascend to the top. Direct aid pegs were used on first ascent.

FA: B. Magg, W. Wieder & S. Perry, 1956

When viewed from the big bathing pool, the grey (COFFIN) buttress is seen to be bounded on the left by a grassy and vegetation-filled chimney. To the right of this chimney, broken red rocks lead to a steep crack, about halfway up which grows a green tree. The upper parts of the crack appear to overhang. To the left of the cave (on COFFIN route) which lies directly above the slimy chimney is seen a steep slab which lies back at an easier angle just below the red break-away. To the left of the uppermost part of this slab is seen a ledge and above, the crag lies at an easier angle and is more broken.

The route follows the broken rocks at the bottom of the grey buttress to the base of the red crack (18m 9).

This is followed (11m) to a good ledge behind the upper branches of the green tree. Above this point the crack is forbidding, so a rope may be fixed to a piton.

An abseil of 9m leads to a point where one can traverse left into the crack below the cave (13) and ascend the cave.

Climb the outside wall of the cave for 8m to where a belay can be made high up on the left. The crux pitch now lies ahead.

Emerge from the cave and straddle upwards until it is possible to move left facing in onto the slab. This move may be made at either of two levels. It is possible to traverse with the feet at the level of the top of the sloping slab, using sparse holds on the steep face above for the hands. Alternatively, ascend right to the overhang and traverse mainly on the hands using grips under the roof until a descent can be made in a small recess about 2,5m to the left, to the sloping slab. The crossing of the slab is delicate, but easier.

A small stance can be made at the end of the slab climbing down slightly (piton), but it is safer to continue 12m upwards (18) and make a stance on a good ledge directly above the start of the slab. The move onto the slab would be very difficult to reverse.

Variation:

  1. 18 The grassy and vegetation-filled chimney may be ascended from the bottom of the face, obviating the original first pitch and abseil traverse.

FA: R. Barry & C. Gebhardt, 1937

1 24 35m
2 23 20m

climbs the grey slab and steep headwall immediately left of Sepulchre

FA: Hector Pringle, Marianne Schwankhart & Steve Broccardo, Jul 2016

This route shares a start with Blood Before Tea before moving left and up the immaculate face to break through the roofs above.

  1. 25, 30m As for Blood Before Tea, climb easy rock to gain a vaguely rightwards trending rib, then step right to a ledge. Move up and left to the obvious rail in the clean wall on the left. Rail 1.5m left then climb the face to the base of a rightward facing corner. Climb this as it gradually steepens then exit leftwards above the lip to beneath the large square roof. Pull past the left edge of the roof to easy ground and a fixed anchor (three nuts and a manky old peg – shared with Finger Hatchet). Either rap off or climb Blood Before Tea’s top pitch.

FA: Hector Pringle & Marianne Schwankhart, Nov 2016

Climbs through the middle of the roof to the left of Finger Hatchet. Start as for Blood Before Tea and Finger Hatchet. Aim for a narrow, left-facing dihedral in green and red rock on the smooth wall beneath the overhang (the only significant feature here).

  1. 27, 30m Climb easy rock to the base of the dihedral. Blood Before Tea and Finger Hatchet both go up and right on the diagonal rib. Instead, step left and climb the dihedral then step left and up to foot ledges and a vertical flake. Up and left again to the highest foot ledge. Traverse right and make a tricky move right to a jug, just above the level of Finger Hatchet’s rail. Crank straight up to get to the white underclings at the start of the overhang. Climb these up and left, then power through the roof above. Climb slightly left up the short headwall to a fixed anchor (three nuts and a manky old peg – shared with Finger Hatchet). Either rap off or climb Blood Before Tea’s top pitch. Like the other routes here its straightforward to rig a toprope by climbing Lost Trail to just above the “A” and traversing across to the anchor.

FA: Hector Pringle, Nov 2019

1 16 22m
2 16 22m
3 10 22m

Situated immediately opposite the usual lunch venue approximately 10m to 12m downstream (left) from SEPULCHRE. Easily recognised by the large gable-shaped (inverted V) overhang, the ascent through which is the crux of the climb.

  1. 22m 16 Start from a pile of blocks. Ascend, traverse left, continue ascent and finish diagonally up to right to stance beneath overhang. Eye hole belay. This pitch is steep, with small holds. (The protection is poor.)

  2. 22m 16 Ascend as high as possible in the crack below the overhang before traversing out over it. This traverse may be done to the right (Barry) or left (Langmore) gaining a ledge after ascent of easier rock for 9m or 15m respectively.

  3. 22m 10 Continue up the broken face over which a number of routes may be chosen.

FA: R. Barry & J. Langmore, 1938

Lost Trail climbs the large, A-shaped recess on the true right, about halfway between Coffin and Help-Help pool. This route tackles the fiercely overhanging right retaining wall of the “A”. The meat of the climb is a fantastic boulder problem with good gear preceded by a nice but easy intro. Descent is by rapping off three fixed nuts - bring some tat for these. Alternatively top out on Lost Trail (30m of easy choss). It’s straightforward to rig a toprope by climbing Lost Trail to just above the “A” and stepping right to the fixed nuts.

Start at a neat platform at the base of a left-facing corner below the “A”.

  1. 27, 30m Climb the left-facing corner to a ledge on the right. Continue up the wavy flakes and step right above them. Lost Trail comes in from the right here. Climb up to a small foot ledge level with the wide, bottomless crack on the right retaining wall (17ish to here). Climb up 2m to a ledge in the belly of the “A”, reach far up and right to place a good wire, then downclimb back to the level of the bottomless crack. Starting at the obvious handjam just above the wide crack, launch onto the steeps. Use the right arête for the first half, then finish leftwards to rejoin the crack for the last move or two. Ends on a good small ledge with fixed nuts above.

FA: Hector Pringle, Sep 2019

1 13 12m
2 15 20m
3 15 22m

Above the Eel Pool (between CONSOLATION and LOST TRAIL) runs a parallel band of overhangs. Springing from a cave at 22m a thin crack slants through them. Start just upstream of the eel pool and scramble up 9m to a ledge below the cave.

  1. 12m 13 Climb up easily until just below the cave where the rock steepens. Ascend a thin crack to a stance and belay in the cave.

  2. 20m 15,A2 Climb out across the chimney in the roof. Use pegs to surmount the lip, then continue up the crack with pegs to below the second roof. Move out left onto the nose and easily up to a good stance (peg belay - junction with CONSOLOATION) (on first ascent, a belay was taken in etriers below the second roof and a peg used to surmount it. However after removing vegetation, neither the etrier stance nor this peg should be required.)

  3. 22m 15 The crack line continues, but step right and climb a slab to an overhang then swing left to the crack. Climb this passing a bulge on good holds, then move easily to a wide ledge. (This pitch is partly on CONSOLATION) Scramble to top.

FA: A.D. Barley & R.P. Barley, 1969

1 18 12m
2 15 22m
3 7 30m

The climb is on the right hand side of the kloof directly above the very large boulder separating the Eel Pool and the big deep pool immediately downstream. Scramble up into a small cave some 6mabove the boulder.

  1. 12m 18 Traverse left around a corner at the level of the bottom of the cave. Then move upwards (steep and delicate at first) to point at extreme end of main overhang which runs along the face from LOST TRAIL. One man stance.

  2. 22m 15 Traverse left for 2m, ascend a few meters then traverse 9m right above the overhang where a long crack running up from right to left is reached. This crack affords the only passage through a barrier of smooth slabs. Ascend it for 15m until above the slab zone, where a small but good belay is reached.

  3. 30m 7 Diagonally left for a few meters then traverse right to above the belay, from which point ascend easier rock to top.

FA: D. Bell & F. Villa, 1952

1 19 20m
2 15 20m
3 15 15m
4 17 35m

Start on the true right hand side of the kloof just downstream from CONSOLATION. Start from the large boulder above the waterfall into the deep pool.

  1. 20m 19 Climb up the shallow recess directly above the boulder for 3m then swing left around the corner using a good handhold to the start of a shallow line leading diagonally left. Traverse along this line (crux at 4m) to where it is possible to step down to a small stance.

  2. 20m 15 Move back diagonally left to the highest point on pitch 1. From here climb directly up to about 3m below the line of overhangs. Traverse right for about 6m until almost at the first stance of CONSOLATION and then ascend 2m to a small stance.

  3. 15m 15 Traverse left above the overhangs to a small stance in a groove (stance 2 on ACAPULCO).

  4. 35m 17 As for pitch 3 of ACAPULCO.

FA: A.D. Barley, L.P. Fatti & B. Gros, 1978

1 18 20m
2 18 15m
3 17 37m
4 19

The route starts immediately downstream of the "Big Deep Pool" and follows the steep wall immediately above it. The initial objective is a cave containing bushes, about 12m above the pool.

  1. 20m 18 From the lower end of the pool, climb a gangway leading up left. Where this ends at a narrow ledge, climb the very steep wall above, moving slightly right, climb a short groove and move right into the cave.

  2. 15m 18 Climb the crack at the back of the cave to a good thread in the roof. Using a peg (in place) in the right wall, make a long difficult swing to gain a small ledge on the arete. Follow a short groove up right, and step right to a small stance (immediately above the pool).

  3. 37m 17 Climb straight up the steep wall above for 9m to a ledge where the angle of the wall eases. Traverse right and continue diagonally up right on good holds, until it is possible to climb up left to a large ledge. Scramble to the top. Variation:

  4. 15m 19 Climb up the steep face in the right hand side of the cave moving right around the arete 3m up, to continue up the groove above.

FA: A.D. Barley & R.P. Barley, 1968

A striking hand-crack situated on the south face of the eastern member of the Tweedledum & Tweedledee pair near the Eastern campsite above Tonquani.

  1. 10m 20 Climb the crack.

FA: Kevin M. Smith, 1983

This is on the south-facing cliffs above the southern access to Tonquani (above the farm Kruger's Kraal). 100-150m west of the nek, a vegetated gully cuts diagonally across the cliff band; about 40m further west, there is a prominent east-facing corner, with the left hand face highly fractured and a grove of bushes at the base.

  1. 25m 17 Climb the shallow chimney/groove in the back of the corner to avoid the loose rock on the lower face. At about 5m, step left onto a narrow ledge. Continue diagonally up and left to reach the lowest portion of the top of the face.

Note:

Rock quality is suspect on this route.

FA: Dylan Morgan & Adam Feldman, 2003

Climb 30m left of GLUVINE up a short undercut wall. Continue up the corner edge of the wall topped by overhangs to a ledge with bushes. Belay some 5m from the top of the crag. Instead of taking the easy way off, traverse left at the same level for 20m, passing round a hawk's eye type of rock formation (13).

FA: J. Gregory & Clive Ward, 1976

If approaching Tonquani from the south, the first rock is encountered on your left about 10 minutes walk after crossing the nek. Approx 35m high. The climb is up an obvious overhanging crack, situated right of a corner edge and a recess with small overhangs at the top. (100m upstream from GENESIS) Climb a shallow open book which faces right moving slightly left to a ledge with a gnarled tree. Climb the crack above through a series of small overhangs and up to a medium sized tree. Continue up a wall 3m left to the top.

FA: J. Gregory & Clive Ward, 1976

The route takes the first obvious line (faint groove to start followed by large roof, followed by open book at top of buttress) immediately downstream of the descent gully bounding the first big buttress on the left side of the approach from the south. The route starts approximately 20m upstream of FEELING GROOVY (cairn).

  1. 25m 16 Take off awkwardly and climb to the ledge (approximately 3m) above which is a large roof. Move slightly to the right and break through roof at the first opportunity. Move up to the short wall at the bottom of the obvious open book above. Wall has crack up centre leading to book. Climb this to establish a position at base of the book. Move up the book to a large ledge at the top of the buttress.

Note:

An excellent short route on generally good rock.

FA: T.P. Willmot, M.T. Willmot & Ulrike Kiefer, 1994

1 17 ?
2 11 10m

The route takes the first line approximately 5m upstream of FEELING GROOVY (cairn) on the first high buttress on the left side of the approach from the south. The route takes the steepish wall below the tree and attendant routes, thrutches through the tree, rises diagonally to the left to reach the comfortable stance above.

  1. ?m 17 Take off awkwardly and move up to the tree. Fight through this and rise diagonally to the left to the base of the book above. Reach the base with difficulty by using the short handrail and lay away holds above. Stem across and move up to a comfortable ledge at base of short open book above.

  2. 10m 11 Traverse to the right around corner to base of right slanting open book (under curtain of creepers). Move up open book to top of buttress.

Note: Tricky on crux, reasonably protected.

FA: Ulrike Kiefer, M.T. Willmot & Tim P. Willmot, 1994

The route takes the initially root choked, overhanging open book some 5m upstream of GENESIS on the first buttress on the left walking in from the south - Boggling climbing.

  1. 25m 18 Grovel past the tree roots to some really good climbing. Move up to the crux at thin vertical rock knife blade (past rusty old peg). Ascend crack, with thin protection, to about 2m below top at which point move delicately left onto arete and ascend chicken heads to comfortable belay stance above.

Note: Excellent climbing on steep clean rock.

FA: F. Greig & Tim P. Willmot, 1990

1 16 22m
2 23 8m

If approaching Tonquani from the south, the first rock is encountered on your left about 10 minutes walk after crossing the nek. This climb follows an obvious smooth face, split by two rails and topped by huge stepped overhangs. Start on some stacked blocks at the left side of smooth face.

  1. 22m 16 Starting about 5m right of the corner on the left hand side of the face, climb the face, tending right to avoid the overhang and continue up on good holds to the highest overhang which is split by a jam crack. Stance in chimney crack (good nuts) underneath the overhang.

  2. 8m 23 Engage mind in reverse and jam through the overhang. Extremely strenuous, especially the last move to reach the lip. Pull through on good holds and up easy rock to the top.

Note: Seconds do not get a second chance so know how to prussik.

FA: A. Lambert & Charles Edelstein, 1983

1 13 12m
2 15 20m
3 15 10m

On the right hand side of the smooth face referenced by GENESIS, is a defined deep crack and chimney topped by a long overhang extending to the left.

  1. 12m 13 Climb the crack to a stance under the overhang.

  2. 20m 15 Traverse left for 4m - climb up into chimney formed by hanging rock, through the chimney and step left onto a face. Make a descending traverse left to a ledge and belay below an open book.

  3. 10m 15 Climb the open book to the top.

FA: J. Gregory & Clive Ward, 1976

1 11 14m
2 13

This climb lies immediately to the left of PHOTOGRAPHERS ROUTE. It is improved by including the first pitch of SCANDAL. From the top of the grey buttress climb a corner of ridge to the left of PHOTOGRAPHERS ROUTE for 6m. Then traverse 2m and climb a crack for 6m (11). The second pitch can be varied as desired.

FA: O. Shipley, I. Cohen & R.W. Charlton, 1955

Opposite FENG'S FOLLY where the left hand side of the kloof curves up into Red Gully is a 25m high grey buttress surmounted by bush. The top of the buttress, which is approximately at the base of the main face, may be reached by walking up the bushy slope on either side. Directly above the buttress, in the main face, is an obvious, wide, broken recess which slopes up slightly to the right. Traverse left 3m and climb to the top. This recess provides a route which is clear-cut and clean, characteristics which are usually lacking in climbs of this standard in the Magaliesberg.

FA: R. Davies & J. Clayton, 1957

On left hand side of kloof there is a vertical face which is split by a crack, immediately to the right of PHOTOGRAPHERS ROUTE. The crack begins 3m above the start level and is marked by a tree.

  1. 30m 13 Start 3m to the right of the base of the tree in a small gully. A long straddle is necessary to achieve the base of the crack. Climb crack until it widens and it is possible to move out onto a 0,5m wide ledge on the face. (This is about 7m up the crack and past a small overhang on the face.) Climb the face on good holds to top.

FA: Stewart Middlemiss & Nigel Christian, 1982

This climb ascends directly up a coffin shaped buttress approximately 25m left of SCANDAL, immediately opposite the campsite. The buttress starts about half way up the crag and is undercut by a reddish overhang which has small wild figs growing in it. There is a further orange overhang higher up on the left hand side of the buttress. The start is opposite a grey block at a point where a tree meets a steep grey face which is undercut at ground level i.e. Approximately 2m left of an easy recess.

  1. 30m 18 Start at the point where the tree meets the undercut face. From this point ascend diagonally right to a crack which starts about halfway up the face and has a small tree growing in its’ base (crux). Follow this crack to the red overhang at the bottom of the coffin shaped buttress. Climb directly up the face of the buttress breaking through both overhangs on excellent "TM" style grips, at grade 15.

FA: G. Myburgh & R. Georgeson-Gunn, 1987

1 15 18m
2 10 18m

The start is marked by a large 3m high detached block at the base of the face, and a 15m high wrinkled apparently un-climbable slab.

  1. 18m 15 Ascend a shallow recess on the left of the slab (3m 15). Alternatively start 2.5 m to the left, ascend a short way, then traverse right (13) into the recess. Continue to ledge.

  2. 18m 10 Walk along the ledge (crossing SCANDAL) to the right to a red buttress. Ascend this buttress keeping to the left of a bush of creepers, and working around to the right higher up where the rock steepens.

FA: J. Anderson, 1966

The ridge forms the right hand edge of the descent gully between SCANDAL and DELUGE.

  1. 43m 7 The route goes straight up the ridge.

FA: Merv Prior & R. Hoare, 1971

  1. 18m 14 Climb the face of the grey buttress described under PHOTOGRAPHERS ROUTE.

  2. 25m 13 Walk along the base of the face for 25m to base of a diagonal crack in vertical wall. The crack slopes up to the right. Ascend the crack to a cave.

  3. 9m 8 Traverse 9m left from the cave to a ledge and stance.

  4. 15m 8 Climb directly up to top up steepish face with good holds.

FA: O. Shipley, I. Cohen & R.W. Charlton, 1955

The route takes the kloof-high fault line immediately upstream (some 5m) of TURKEY EXTRA ORDINARY - cairn.

  1. 26m 14 Stem up the open book to start. Move up the easier fault line above to just before top of the kloof. Climb the knobbled face at the left to finish. Take a comfortable belay stance at the top.

Notes:

  1. Descend via the steep gully mentioned in TURKEY EXTRA ORDINARY

  2. Rock quality is excellent

FA: Tim P. Willmot & Ulrike Kiefer

Some 30m upstream of WALK ON THE WILD SIDE is a free standing large column with a smooth face at front. If one ambles around and up the back of the free- standing column one comes across a hidden chimney in the main kloof wall. The route takes this to top - cairn.

  1. 25m 13 Approach the chimney from the gully. Climb the chimney to the first large ledge. Approach the second chimney and climb this exiting on the left. Take a comfortable belay stance in the custom built barber chair on the right of the exit.

Notes:

  1. Descend via the steep gully immediately upstream of the top of the stance

  2. Rock quality is excellent

FA: Tim P. Willmot & Ulrike Kiefer, 1995

Climbs the obvious chimney to start and then the left leaning knobbly looking open book above. Starts some 10m upstream of WALK ON THE WILD SIDE - cairn.

  1. 26m 14 Climb the body-wide chimney to reach the open book above. Climb this to reach the stance with large tree. Finish here and scramble off or continue up line to the top. Take a comfortable stance.

Notes:

  1. Descend via the steep gully immediately downstream of WALK ON THE WILD SIDE.

  2. Rock quality is excellent

FA: Tim P. Willmot & Ulrike Kiefer, 1995

1 8 20m
2 18 10m

Takes the second obvious crack system / open book upstream of the descent gully mentioned in WHEN ALL ELSE FAILS, DYNO - cairn.

  1. 20m 8 Climb the easy crack / book up to the large ledge below the striking roof with a crack along its full width.

  2. 10m 18 Climb the awkward bulge just upstream of the striking roof. This is difficult, exposed and poorly protected. Pull up the easier rock above to the comfortable stance on top.

Notes:

  1. Protection on the crux is marginal.

  2. All in all, bold climbing

  3. Descend via the steep gully immediately downstream.

FA: Ulrike Kiefer & Tim P. Willmot, 1995

Climbs the obvious, broken looking open book some 15m upstream of GRANDMA NOSE BEST. Start just upstream of a wild fig growing under a large wide roof about 10m up - cairn.

  1. 26m 16 Amble up to the base of the steep broken looking open book. Get established in the base of the open book with difficulty. Stem up to easier ground above to reach a comfortable stance on top.

Notes:

  1. An excellent, short route

  2. Descend via the steep gully some 30m upstream of the route.

FA: Tim P. Willmot & Ulrike Kiefer, 1995

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An easy gully above CACTUS CRAG giving access to the top of the krantz and the shortest way out to upper Cedarberg Kloof.

1 13 20m
2 15 23m

Situated about 10m downstream from the descent gully behind CACTUS CRAG and DELUGE, i.e. about 100m down from SCANDAL.

  1. 20m 13 Ascend a broken face to a small tree in a chink. Break through the overhang and continue up to a ledge.

  2. 23m 15 Move 2m right towards an obvious small crack. Ascend crack. Continue to top.

FA: Merv Prior & R. Hoare, 1976

1 11 18m
2 10 12m
  1. 18m 11 Start opposite LOST TRAIL in an obtuse angled recess. Ascend 12m to top of small buttress on the right. Then move diagonally up to the left past a flat, poised block to a wide ledge. Walk to the left to where the ledge narrows. This point is opposite SEPULCHRE.

  2. 12m 10 Traverse left along narrow ledge to crack which slants up to the right. Ascend to the top of the crack. Some scrambling is necessary to reach the top of the face.

FA: Merv Prior & H. Graafland, 1966

Commences just above swimming pool adjacent to lunch venue. Route of least resistance is followed until a smooth chimney is reached on the left hand side. This constitutes the first difficult pitch. From there a diagonal face is climbed, bearing right (8) to a prominent pinnacle. The usual route is up this, bearing right, although the face immediately above is interesting. There is plenty of scope for variation.

FA: S. Le Roux & P. Houmoller, 1937

1 17 25m
2 22 30m

The route is located on the buttress directly opposite to ALCHEMY and LAST RITES.

  1. 25m 17 Climb the face directly below the steep wall with a white staining leading down from a set of roofs.

  2. 30m 22 Once on the ledge start at the right hand recess (open book) and move up and to the left onto a thin crack system. Move right past a peg up to a set of roofs. Move left to face the roofs and traverse left around the corner to a good belay.

Note: George Mallory straightened the line by going straight up the wall on the arete after the traverse left under the roofs.

FA: P. Schlotfeldt & G. Graafland, 1985

Takes the overhanging crack in the large boulder opposite ROCK SPIRIT/ALCHEMY.

  1. 32m 23 Climb the very overhanging crack to a sloping ledge. Continue up two more short steep sections to where it is possible to traverse off right on a large sloping ledge.

FA: Steve Bradshaw, 1985

1 10 23m
2 7 22m
3 11 15m
4 11 14m

The climb starts from the large boulder which separates the Eel Pool and Big Pool. i.e. opposite CONSOLATION

  1. 23m 10 Climb up a steep diagonal ledge which steps up to a tree about 11m above stream bed and 6m upstream from starting point. Then ascend open book for 4,5m and 6m up face to the right of the open book to a grassy ledge with tree.

  2. 22m 7 Climb a 3m chimney about 3m upstream from tree, followed by 18m up face to right of chimney to another tree belay on large ledge.

  3. 15m 11 Ascend 4,5m behind belay point to the ledge. Then traverse left along ledge to tree belay at foot of pinnacle.

  4. 14m 11 Climb 8m up outer face of pinnacle. Traverse 3m to right from top of pinnacle into an open book. Follow this to the top.

FA: R. Kinsley, S. Baron & P. Weinberg, 1955

Starts directly downstream of the crux of the Help-Help traverse.

  1. 15m 22 Start in the right facing recess, climb this and the continuation crack line up the wall.

FA: Kevin M. Smith, 1989

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