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This is the grandest and most scenic kloof in the Magaliesberg.

Access issues

The Mountain Club of South Africa (MCSA) wholly own Tonquani. Access to non-members is restricted by permits issued by the Johnnesburg section of the MCSA.

For more information on routes, access and permits please see the following websites:

Mountain Club of South Africa (MCSA) Look at “Who we are” for the different sections of the MCSA

Mountain Club of South Africa – Johannesburg Section website Click on “Access and Properties” for more information Click on “Contact” to get in touch with the MCSA for more information.

ClimbZA website Welcome to the largest & most comprehensive online database of Southern African climbing information. A forum site to find climbing partners or to find out more about different climbing areas and climbs.

Where to stay

There is a campsite just above the kloof. The campsite has no facilities. Water is available from the stream all year round.


Leave no trace. Monkey cages are installed at the campsite and at the meet spot in the kloof, you are advised to store food items in these to prevent the monkeys from eating it. Please do not leave litter in the cages and please do not feed the monkeys. Bolting is prohibited.


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Grade Route

The route follows a line 3m left of Good Time.

Climb the groove to a blocky ledge. Move to the back of the blocky ledge and climb the open book with a fist-sized crack at the top.

FA: T.P. Willmot & U. Kiefer, 1995

Climb the obvious broken groove at the right extremity of the blocky wall on the opposite side of the narrow gully containing Good Time and Party Girl.

Note: Loose in places.

FA: S. Middlemiss & I. Schwartz, 1989

1 20 12m
2 16 25m

Start 3m right of Donkerhoek Corner.

  1. 12m (20) Climb the thin crack to a belay in a recess (shared with Donkerhoek Corner).

  2. 25m (16) Follow the finger crack behind the stance up. Climb left of a tree in the corner to a point below an overhang. Traverse right under overhang and go up right of it. Continue straight up to a grassy ledge. Tree belay.

FA: K.M. Smith & M. Smith., 1984

From the point where Donkerhoek Buttress reaches down to stream level, follow the steeply rising ground on its upstream end to a point about 30m from the stream where the rock makes a 90° angle to the right. Climb this corner.

  1. 12m 13. Ascend the corner. Move right at the top to a stance in a recess next to a 2m tall obelisk. (Crux in first 3m)

  2. 30m 10. Move left and continue up broken corner towards the blocky overhang. Traverse left under overhangs across a pleasant red face for about 5m and ascend to the top via a recess at the end of the overhang.

FA: R. Charlton & E. Ruhle, 1952

1 12 18m
2 7 25m

5m left of Donkerhoek Corner is an undercut hand crack going up diagonally right.

  1. 18m (12) Climb the hand crack below a bulge. Follow the crack to a point where it turns into a large chimney crack above the bulge. Tree belay.

  2. 25m (8) Follow the chimney crack to the top, keeping on the left corner in the middle.

It is also possible to move left onto the face and follow Beetlejuice to the top on excellent gear at grade 10.

FA: H. Barker, 1938

1 16 8m
2 10 6m
3 12 28m
  1. A steep right-angled corner is climbed until a narrow ledge running off to the left is reached.

  2. Traverse left along the ledge and then ascend a steep corner with good holds to a small stance at the foot of a long flat face. Small bollard for belay.

  3. Traverse right 2m (thin). Ascend the face to the top. exposure is noticeable but grips, although sometimes small, are never lacking.

Pitches 1, 2, and 3 can be climbed as one pitch.

Note: H. Wong etc. made the first ascent of pitch 1. Pitches 2 and 3 were first climbed in Oct 1946 by R. Charlton, E. Pearlstein, and Miss E. Chadwick.

FA: H. Wong, H. Barker & M. Burton, Dec 2039

1 13 15m
2 15 25m

Downstream of Short Gully is a buttress that projects out to the stream. The climb starts at the right hand edge of the projecting face that reaches into the stream. There is a thin (20cm) tall three growing right next to the arete, rubbing against it a few meters higher.

  1. 15m (13) Easily climb up the face just left of the arete. (Protection is not great here - wrap a sling around the tree). Climb into corner above the tree and continue up to the eye-hole belay.

  2. 25m (15) From the eye hole, continue up on sloping face tending right. Traverse 1m right just above roof. Continue up on good holds tending slight left. Move left into corner (crux) and continue a few meters higher. Traverse left and around the corner with fingers in good crimpy rail and feet just above the roof. Continue up on sloping face tending right and climb out just above the overhangs.

The climb is usually done in one pitch but communication is difficult over the noise of the stream from the top. The eye-hole belay is small and uncomfortable for more than one 2nd.

FA: D. Gillham, L. Schaff, M. de Villiers & B. Russel, Jul 2049

The climb starts on a small ledge in a recess above a pool above a waterfall. Cross the stream at the top of the waterfall and walk right for 3m against the wall to the ledge (footholds may be just under the water if the water level is high). The ledge is about 1m above the stream. The climb follows the crack all the way to the top.

  1. 45m (13) Above the waterfall climb up inward flaring jam crack to ledge with tree. Climb into the small cave and out right at the top. Follow the corner to a large ledge with an overhang and the Burton Memorial.

  2. 45m (15) Climb up the overhang and out on the right (crux). Follow the crack, and later a short chimney, to the top.

Note: An excellent grade 13 variation is to climb Tonquani Crack to the Burton Memorial and then Tonquani Ridge from that point. This involves walking left on a horizontal tree from the memorial which is now fairly rotten. This linkup can also be done by traversing left on good holds a few meters above the crux of pitch 2.

FA: D. Abercrombie, C. Nicholls, J. Langmore & C. Gebhardt, Apr 2038

FA: J. Langmore, G. von Grunewald & D. Abercrombie, Sep 2037


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