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Description

The true right face of the main kloof.

Access issues inherited from Mhlabatini

The Mountain Club of South Africa (MCSA) owns Mhlabatini. Access to non-members is restricted by permits issued by the Johannesburg section.

For more information on routes, access and permits please see the following websites:

Mountain Club of South Africa (MCSA) http://www.mcsa.org.za/ Look at “Who we are” for the different sections of the MCSA

Mountain Club of South Africa – Johannesburg Section website https://mcsajohannesburg.org/ Click on “Access and Properties” for more information Click on “Contact” to get in touch with the MCSA for more information.

ClimbZA website http://www.climbing.co.za/wiki/South_African_Climbing_Wiki Welcome to the largest & most comprehensive online database of Southern African climbing information.

http://www.climbing.co.za/forum/ A forum site to find climbing partners or to find out more about different climbing areas and climbs.

Routes

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Grade Route
1 15 20m
2 9 12m

The climb follows an obvious downstream facing corner 150m downstream of the junction with Pool Gully.

  1. 20m (15) Climb up crack to a roofed ledge on the right. Stay on the left face at the top until it is easy to step onto the ledge.

  2. 12m (9) Chimney up behind stance. Go left on ledge above to bolted anchors.

The climb can be done in one pitch by climbing just to the left of the block above the first stance (15).

There are bolted anchors on the ledge. These can be used to abseil back down. It is possible to scramble out from here or to climb the red buttress above the ledge at grade 10.

FA: J. Botha & H. Wong, 1940

1 5 12m
2 13 22m
3 13 15m
4 8 9m

Climb the chimney above the point where a small spring of water enters the kloof at the bottom of the chimney.

  1. 12m 5 Scramble up above the spring.

  2. 22m 13 Climb chimney to a large chockstone.

  3. 15m 13 Climb behind chockstone and traverse outwards for 6m and climb through the hole in the roof.

  4. 9m 8 Climb a face, alternatively a recess, on the right hand wall.

The fourth pitch is rarely climbed. There is a bolted anchor on the left side (looking outwards/true left) of the recess at the end of 3rd pitch from where you can abseil to the bottom. Watch out for wetting your rope in the stream at the bottom.

FA: H. Wong & M. Gaze, 1940

1 7 18m
2 18 20m
3 15 12m
4 15 5m

The climb starts about 12m downstream from Mhlabatini Chimney.

  1. 18m 7 Climb 12 m up open book before traversing 9m upstream into recess. Scramble up recess to belay point in crack below platform on right. This platform is on the downstream side of the left hand buttress of Mhlabatini Chimney.

  2. 20m 18 Climb 3m up crack to platform. (You can skip this by walking up the recess to the large tree and then traversing right on the mega ledge) Traverse 5m right along large ledge and move up to the next ledge. Climb 5m to ledge on left at foot of the next open book (strenuous). Climb this for 5m and step right onto a comfortable ledge. The open book and ledge are shared with Bullit.

  3. 12m 15 Climb up about 3m in open book then move right onto prominent nose. Traverse right on exposed rock to small ledge.

  4. 30m 15 Climb up the corner above on an undercut layback. Then traverse left onto the outside of the very exposed buttress on good jugs and straight to top.

Notes:

  1. The original ascent made a traverse right from the top of pitch 3 to the top of Mhlabatini Chimney. Pitch 4 as described is fun and really exposed and was first climbed by P. Dawson and P. Norton.

FFA: K.M. Smith., 1878

FA: R. Kinsley, W. Wieder, S. Perry & Miss M Armstrong, 1958

1 15 25m
2 15 20m
3 7 20m

Between the buttress downstream of Mhlabatini Chimney (Bullit is here) and the next buttress is an easy break/gully. The route starts on the left corner of this.

  1. 25m (15) Scramble up corner. Gain a big ledge after a tricky move. Continue up and climb a jam crack corner, moving left at the top. Then traverse over smooth sloping ramp to a one-man stance. This is in the middle of pitch 2 of Space Walk.

  2. 20m (15) (Crux) Climb up 1 - 2m and continue diagonally left to a good rail. Do a spectacular traverse to the left. There is a decent rest on jugs halfway where you move around the corner. Continue traversing to a big ledge.

  3. 20m (7) From the ledge climb diagonally up to corner. Scramble up easily to top.

Variations: Original route went left on pitch 1 before the jam crack to a huge ledge. It is possible to avoid the unimpressive 3rd pitch by abseiling of a tree after pitch 2.

FA: P. Fatti, D. Cretchley, D. Wildman, C.Fatti & I. McLarty, 1966

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