Situated 4m downstream of SKELETON GULLY. Start just to the right of a black water streak on a 4m wall, below a large crack.
25m 16 Climb wall (awkward) to enter crack system, and proceed more easily upwards to large belay ledge.
12m 10 Climb front edge of buttress to ledge, then the crack in some loose blocks to another ledge. Move right to below short corner and up this on good holds to large ledge. Exit on left and scramble to top.
The pitch follows an obvious line up the grey face immediately above the top of pitch 1.
same
20m 16 Start in a corner where the grey face meets the steep red face about 2 metres downstream from the top of the recess/chimney just climbed. Move easily to a small overhang at about 7 metres and pull through on the right hand side (crux). Bear right above the overhang and to the summit on granulated grey rock via the line of least resistance.
FA:W. Wieder, Miss M. Armstrong & R. Kinsley., 1958
The route ascends the buttress immediately upstream of THE GOLDEN GATE (aka Gatepost) buttress. From the original start of THE GOLDEN GATE, walk behind a huge block and then descend 3 metres to a sloping ledge. One is now approximately 10 metres above the streambed.
12m 14 Ascend the buttress easily, keeping within 2 metres of the left arete, to a large ledge. Tree root belay.
25m 16 Three metres left of the corner recess is a crack. Gain the crack, ascend it (crux), until it is possible to step right onto a ledge. From the right-hand end of the ledge, ascend the slab heading rightwards to a substantial tree. Pass a second tree, to gain the ledge above.
This route takes the deep right leaning crack 2m upstream of the start of THE GOLDEN GATE, ascends this to the large ledge and finishes up the obvious crack directly above – cairn.
20m 16 Start the crack with difficulty. Climb the deep groove until forced left, then ascend the juggy face to reach the large ledge above.
20m 15 Move up the blocks to reach the crack immediately above. Climb the face left of the crack using the crack for protection. Move slightly right to reach the comfortable stance on top.